Yes i understand the icn 8 pin legs but the voltage is coming from where

Sorry, I don't understand. As I understand it, everything works, except three pin socket (220 vac) socket for another appliance like a 220vac window air conditioner for example? Do you have a volt meter that says it failed? Usually. the middle pin is neutral.
so that voltage between it and either of the other two is 110vac.
The outer two should show 220vac.

You have 120Volt 8-pin off-delay timer.
When you put power to terminals 2 and 7, test which other pins are energized.
120Volt Black Hot wire usually goes to terminal 7 and Neutral white wire goes to terminal 2.
As general rule the other terminals are dry and receive no voltage when timer is energized at terminals 7 and 2.
This means you must add a jumper wire from your Hot wire on terminal 7 to the Com terminal 8. This action will energize both Com terminal 8 and NC terminal 5. So test if 5 and 8 have continuity when timer is off. And test if both are powered when Com terminal is energized.

Then when timer activates, NC terminal 5 will no longer receive power from Come terminal, and NO terminal 6 receives power instead.
Copy following link for general illustrations that may apply to your timer and application:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-pin-timers.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

How about to the switch , is there battery power ? Fuse #15 FWD 10amp. I/P fuse panel . BCM - body control module light's the switch indicators 2hi, 4hi,4low . Check fuse #6 10amp I/P fuse panel .
DTC 002
The transfer case encoder motor is an assembly which houses four separate channels. These channels are used to indicate to the transfer case shift control module the present gear position of the transfer case or if the transfer case is in transition between gears. The encoder motor assembly consists of an electronically conductive inner ground ring in contact with a three legged wiper arm. Each leg's length is such that it makes contact with the conductive regions of the four channels. When any leg of the wiper arm is making contact with the conductive area of any channel, the encoder provides a path to ground to the inner ground ring.
During electronic shifting, the transfer case shift control module monitors the transfer case encoder circuit for the proper operating sequence. If at any time during a shift, the encoder changes from one position to any position other than the next possible position, an error counter in the transfer case shift control module increments by four. After the counter reaches 32, the transfer case shift control module set a DTC 2, a permanent "encoder fault," and reverts to a 2HI to 4LO or a 4LO to 2HI shift pattern only. To guard against a transient, random encoder fault due to vibration, dirt, electrical noise, etc., the fault counter reduces by one each time the transfer case shift control module detects a valid encoder value. The encoder must intermittently fail 25 percent of the time for the transfer case shift control module to consider it faulty and store DTC 2.

Test Description
The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.
This step measures the voltage between the transfer case encoder circuit channels P, A, B, and C to ground.
This step tests the suspect circuit(s) for an open, short to power, or short to ground.
This step tests the encoder signal ground circuit for an open or high resistance.
DTC 2 -- Encoder Fault Step
Action
Value(s)
Yes
No
Schematic Reference: Transfer Case Control Schematics
1
Important: Check the transfer case shift control module for DTCs. The transfer case shift control module is not a class 2 device. DTCs are displayed on the transfer case shift control switch. Use the following four steps to obtain DTCs.
Turn OFF the ignition for 10 seconds.
Connect PIN 13 on the data link cable (DLC) to a ground. The DLC is located in the cab under the instrument panel on the driver's side.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Observe the transfer case shift control switch select buttons for flashing codes.
Did you perform the Diagnostic System Check - Transfer Case?
--
YES - Go to Step 2
NO - Go to Diagnostic System Check
2
Disconnect the connector at the encoder motor.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Measure the voltage between the transfer case encoder circuit channels P, A, B, and C to ground.
Does the voltage measure near the specified value?
4.8-5.1 V
YES - Go to Step 4
NO --Go to Step 3
3
Test the suspect circuit for an open, short to power, or short to ground. Refer to General Electrical Diagnosis and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
YES - Go to Step 8
NO - Go to Step 7
4
Turn the ignition switch OFF.
Test the encoder signal ground circuit for an open or high resistance. Refer to General Electrical Diagnosis and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
YES - Go to Step 8
NO - Go to Step 5
5
With a DMM at the transfer case module connector probe the encoder sign ground pin and ensure a good ground path through the module.
Did the DMM indicate a good ground path?
--
YES - Go to Step 6
NO - Go to Step 7
6
Replace the transfer case encoder motor. Refer to Motor/Encoder Replacement .
YES - Did you complete the replacement?
--
NO - Go to Step 8
--
7
Replace the transfer case shift control module. Refer to Transfer Case Shift Control Module Replacement .
YES - Did you complete the replacement?
--
NO - Go to Step 8
--
8
Clear all DTCs from memory. Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Clearing .
Operate the vehicle while pressing each of the buttons on the transfer case shift control switch.
Does the DTC reset?
--
YES - Go to Step 2
NO - System OK

First check voltage of IC 4 (mb 3756) pin #8 in TX mode should be 8.0 volts. Check the voltage of the center leg of Tr36 (Final) and of Tr38 (Driver) RX=13.78 volts DC, TX=4.5 to 6.5 volts..

Hello

Your TVs vertical output section has the fault. You just open your TV after disconnecting it from the AC mains wall socket, and locate the vertical output section. This section uses an Ic marked as part [IC 401] on the board and its number is LA7840. Just look for any loose soderings around its components legs, and the solderings at the IC legs, which has 7 of them. The IC stated above will be screwed onto a heatsink to radiate heat out of it when it works.
If all soldering point are fine, come towards the IC legs and measure the voltages at each leg. The voltages must be
pin 1= Ground
pin 2= 12.6
pin 3= 24.7
pin 4= 4.4
pin 5= 4.4
pin 6= 24v [vcc]
pin 7= 1.8
All voltages stated above are DC voltages with respect to ground. If any of this voltage is missing, find out the reason for that. If all of them are noted abnormal, IC may be defective, and replace it.
[vcc] stands for main input voltage to the IC.
If you need any more assistance, feel free to contact me through Fixya. Ok.

Hi,
Here's what I think but you will have to check it out...
The fan motor in the 39 heater is a 120V fan there fore it cannot be hooked to the 240 which potentially could have the high (wild) leg as one of the fan legs...
The 240V 36 unit probably has a 240v fan motor....
Now if you were to make sure that the leg that fed the motor was a 120V to ground leg then you will be okay...
Hope you understand where I was going with this...

heatman101

These units have a reputation of loose solder joints in the horizontal/high voltage circuit. As this is a dangerous circuit be carefull if trying to repair it yourself. Always unplug before attempting a repair. Start by soldering the horizontal driver transformer. This is a small four pin transformer just off of the base of the horizontal output transistor. Solder these four pins and work your way soldering everything up to the horizontal output. While you are there be looking all over the board for little burnt places at solder joints. Next, work your way from the collector of the horizontal output to the high voltage transformer. Remember also to solder both legs of all components that you come across. Solder all the legs of the high voltage transformer. I hope this helps and thanks for using fixya. I am here to help.

memmory full delete some data

NO Sound
First check to make sure there isn't a mute switch or switched to external speakers, then
use ohmmeter to measure the speaker resistance (3ohm to 30ohm is usual).

Now find the speaker wires, and follow them down to the pcb, and look for a chip with
7/8 legs then measure the voltage on all of its legs, you should get 8v to 20v on one pin and half of that on one of the others, the internal circuit of most chips is that of a push/pull output stage, with the output coming from the middle of the pair of transistors.
(if there is no chip then it will actually be a transistor push/pull pair).


If no voltage of at least 6v then look at the pcb from each leg of the chip, and look for an electrolytic cap to earth, thats the power line,
so follow it and look for a voltage regulator or straight from power stage (PSU),
and test if voltage there.

check for fusible resistors and power diode and smoothing cap.

If voltages are ok, then when your meter (other probe hanging loose) probe touches the input pin ,a buzz from speaker should sound, if not then change chip.

if buzz occurs then your looking for the SIF chip,
so look for a three legged Xtal filter with 6mhz (5.5mhz europe) thats the chip.

Questions
Is the eeprom/micro pro set to a different country sound system ?
Is the mute line on ? micro pro control
Is the speaker switch set to internal ?
Is there power to the output chip ?
is there at least one pin (on the o/p chip)with about half the power voltage ?
Is there power to the sif chip (12v) ?
Is the tv from another country (different xtals) ?

Hope this may help you;

Regards,
VOTIT

press the top and bottom theres clips on the top and bottom