I have made sure the drain hose is in correctly, Also have cleaned washer several times. It is also making a clunking noise.
Stands for long fill and occurs when the water level does not change for a period of time after the valves are turned on.
All washers are designed to operate with a water supply pressure of 20-100 PSI. When the pressure drops below 20 PSI the washer can have the following problems:
Slow Fill- low water pressure reduces the speed at which water flows into the machine.
Verify the pressure at all other water sources in the house (i.e. sinks, showers, etc..). If you find other places where the pressure is low, the problem is not with the machine but with the water supply.
Continuous Fill- The valve may not fully seat under 20 PSI which would allow for a constant flow even when the machine is not supposed to be filling.
Contact the water company to verify the pressure being supplied to the house.
dispenser- Needs a minimum amount of pressure to function. May dispense constantly, at the wrong time, or not at all.
A plumber may need to be consulted if the pressure is found to be too low.
Things you can check
:
Are the Hot and Cold water faucets turned on
Are the water hoses kinked
Make sure all the hose are straight and able to flow water
Are the screen inside the water valve plugged
Inlet valve should be free of debris and rust.
Turn off water and remove the inlet hoses from washer.
Remove any accumulated film or particles.
Assure rubber washers are in the end of each inlet hose.
Reinstall hoses, turn on water and check for leaks.
Error codes can be caused by a Power Surge or other electrical anomaly,attempt to return the washer to operation by following the Hard Reset procedure below.
Unplug or turn the circuit breaker off for 30 seconds.
Reconnect the unit to the power source by turning the breaker back on or plugging the unit back into the wall outlet.
Press the Pause/Cancel/Stop button twice to clear the display.
Start a short cycle to check the operation of the machine by selecting a cycle and pressing and holding the start button until the machine starts
by Manage My Life
September 2nd, 2009
SOURCE: The LF error message pops up on Bravos washer
might want to check screens in fill valve where hoses attach to machine
SOURCE: my top load 22922 Kenmore
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-11022922100/0582/0153200?pathTaken=
and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.
Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf
It also has a troubleshooting guide.
To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.
Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b
With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.
If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part and only requires you to access the console and remove the cabinet.
Testimonial: "Thanks so much, oldguy5, for all the information, and links you provided. I felt confident enough to take apart the cabinet myself, & it's working now"
The LF error means Long Fill.
When you start a cycle the water should come into the dispensers. If you have a good flow through the dispenser the valves will be okay.
I recommend checking the inlet water screens on the back of the washer. The inlet screens are located on the water valve. To access the screens you will turn the water off and remove the inlet hoses. The screens prevent debris from entering the valve and sometimes over time mineral deposits build up on the screens. This can block the water or slow the water fills down to a trickle. You can pull the screens out and clean them if necessary. Flush the inlets thoroughly with water when replacing the screens. If debris gets past the screens, it can cause the valves to stick open and an overflow of water can result.
While you have the fill hoses disconnected, place the ends of the hoses in a bucket and briefly turn on the faucets to check for proper water pressure and flow from both hoses.
A common reason for an L F (long fill) error on this washer is the drain hose being stuck to far down the drain standpipe.
If the drain hose is to far down the standpipe then a siphon can occur which causes the washer to fill and drain at the same time. This will cause a long fill error.
197 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×