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Renee Posted on May 27, 2017

Dolphin m400 - moves back and forth only a couple of inches and then eventually shuts down. How do I fix this?

5 Related Answers

The Experts

Kyocera HP Expert

  • 532 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 21, 2009

SOURCE: Shuts down during warm up

the fuser unit is not warming up, so the machine shut down

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/mustafa_06f84c65ab5cc745

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john224

John Prohaska

  • 1378 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 23, 2009

SOURCE: My dolphin cleaner runs for a couple of minutes

It is usually either the power supply or the motor unit or both. None of those items are considered do-it-yourself repairs. For information on sending the unit in for service you can check with the manufacturer at www.maytronicsus.com or try us at www.arrowpools.net. If the unit is several years old and in need of repair and also the replacement of wear items such as brushes and/or tracks, it can be cost prohibitive to fix. It is helpful if you get the serial number from the units casing when you contact us or Maytronics so we have an idea of how old it is.

Anonymous

  • 249 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 04, 2010

SOURCE: Car will not start

maybe the fuel pump went out,or possibly the timing chain,fuel filter

Testimonial: "Could it be an ignition coil?"

richroth

Richard Roth

  • 9472 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 27, 2010

SOURCE: My washer tries to spin but only moves a couple of

We have a Maytag Neptune (MAH5500BWW) washer that would go through the complete wash cycle and then get to the spin portion of the cycle and silently skip from minute 7 to minute 0 without really doing much. After poking around a various places, I didn't find the solution to my problem on-line, but I did figure it out, so I thought I would post what I found on-line. I also posted this solution on: http://www.fixya.com/support/t2322035-will_drain_but_wont_spin

It turns out that the washer thought it was "continuously out of balance" because the inertial unbalance switch was not working properly. The way I fixed it was:

1. I followed the instructions to disassemble the Neptune washer found here: http://www.neptunehelp.com/index_files/Page323.htm and then in the control panel on top I found actually a very useful document stored in the control panel itself. It is called "Schematic Mini-manual LED Washer" and it contains a set of schematics for the electrical system and an explanation on how to run various diagnostics on the washer. This was incredibly helpful.

2. I checked the diagnostic code using the following procedure:

a. Plug the washer in for power.
b. Put the washer into "Service Mode" by holding the "Delicates" and "Heavy soil" keys simultaneously for 3 or more seconds. My washer showed a "00" on the screen when it was in Service Mode.
c. Pushed "Presoak" to put it in diagnostic code mode.
d. Pushed the down arrow key to read out the last diagnostic code. In my case the most recent diagnostic code was a "05", which the mini-manual says means "Continuous unbalanced circuit". In fact the mini-manual also says to "Check for: Faulty unbalance switches, Loose wire connections, Bad control board".
e. To find out how many cycles ago this happened, you can push the "Cotton/sturdy" button and it will tell you how many cycles ago this happened. I can't remember the response of my washer, but it either showed a "00" or "01".

To double check the diagnostic code, I

a. Cleared the list of diagnostic codes by holding the "Heavy soil" and "Presoak" buttons for 3 seconds while in the "Diagnostic code" mode;
b. Put the washer door back on and screwed it in without putting the entire front back on the washer.
c. Pushed the "off" button or unplug the washer and plug it back in to get it out of "Service mode".
c. Ran just the spin cycle, where it counted down to 7 and then was perfectly silent and then displayed a "00" without really trying to spin.

The mini-manual shows you where the switches are physically on the washer. The easiest way to check this is to find a connector that connects the three switches to the control panel. I found this by lifting the top panel of the washer up all of the way so I could access the top of the washer's tub. Based on the schematic from the mini-manual, the in-line connector has four wires. One side you will find a red wire with the number "23" on it and an orange wire with the number "40" on it. The other half of the connector has two blue wires connected to it, one with the number "23" on it and one with the number "40" on it. In my washer, this connector was placed on top of the washer toward the back.

To test to see if one of the switches is not working:
a. Disconnect the inline connector described above.
b. Test the resistance between the two terminals on the side of the connector having the two blue wires. I found that when I did this I had infinite resistance, so want of the switches was stuck open, indicating the "unbalanced " condition.

To find which switch was at fault, I disconnected each switch from the circuit and tested each one individually. The one that was easiest to get to was the lower tub displacement switch, which is in the front on the bottom of the washer's tub. It worked fine (0 Ohms resistance normally and infinite resistance when you push the button). The next I tried was the inertial unbalance switch, which is placed on the top, right, front of the tub just underneath the block of concrete that is mounted on the tub. For convenience, I removed the concrete block so I could easily access and remove the switch.

This was the switch with the problem (it was effectively stuck open or infinite resistance). It seems to have some rod of metal in it that moves back and forth with the washers motion, so I just shook it vigorously and you could hear the rod of metal move back and forth. This seemed to free up the switch mechanism and the switch functioned again (showed "0" ohms when it was held in about the same position as it would be on the washer). I put the switch back in place and checked the connector with the blue wires leading to all three switches as before. This time I received effectively "0" Ohms, meaning that the problem was fixed.

4. At this point, I put everything back together again (concrete block, reconnected the in-line connector to the switches, and reversed the procedure found inhttp://www.neptunehelp.com/index_files/Page323.htm ).

Once everything was back together again, I tested just a "spin" cycle and everything worked. You could also test this before putting things back together (probably a good idea) by temporarily putting the door on properly and trying a "spin" cycle.

Another thing to note, you could actually check the diagnostic codes and run several of the tests without taking the entire washer apart. Basically, all you need to do is get the mini-manual out of the control panel (I there are 6 screws total I took off) and run the tests before opening the rest of the washer.

In the end, it might be good to clean or lubricate the inertial unbalance switch or replace it since it will probably stick again. Unfortunately, I am not sure how it is built, so I am not sure what the best way to clean or lubricate it is. Just shaking it for the moment did the trick.

Anonymous

  • 444 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 30, 2012

SOURCE: 2004 chevy venture after shuting off wipers they return to off position then go back and forth 3 to 4 inches for 30 seconds and dont go back to park position.sometimes after shut off ok. when restar

Multi funtion switch has to be replaced.

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Turn unit on,light stays on for 5 seconds and shuts off,robot doesnt move

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I love my Dolphin Dynamic 342348BU47 I have had her for two years, her name is Daisy. One side of her track will not run. I turn her on she moves forward 6 inches then back 6 inches then stops. I have...

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When i turn on my unit, it moves forward a few inches and then back a few inches and stops. checked interior and nothing is blocking the wheels or brushes

Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.


For starters, try the tip I posted here on Fixya, found at: http://www.fixya.com/support/r3651526-dolphin_pool_cleaner_wont_start_up. If that is not enough, try our sites FAQ section on Dolphins at www.arrowpools.net. Select the FAQ button then from the drop-down select Dolphin.

If none of this helps your problem could be in the power supply, cable or motor unit.

The motor unit is the most likely problem; the motor(s) inside it is probably failing. When the drive motor and/or impeller motor move you can assume the power supply and cable/electric connections are ok.

Whether the unit is in or out of warranty you can either send it to a service center (which we are one) or try to repair it yourself however it is not recommended you open the cord end that connects to the motor unit as you are breaking the seal for the submersible electronics. You should also be aware that there are no parts available for inside the motor unit. If anything inside is damaged a whole new assembly is required. The motor unit for that cleaner is about $400 and when installed by a non-service center does not come with a warranty so you are better off sending it in for a complete diagnosis and estimate.


For information about the repair and sending it to a center you can contact Dolphin direct at www.maytronicsus.com or our site at www.arrowpools.net.


If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!


John

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Robo-kleen just moves back and forth in about a 2 foot section - why?

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Shuts down during warm up

the fuser unit is not warming up, so the machine shut down

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/mustafa_06f84c65ab5cc745

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