Ck out voltage regulator & stator in a briggs & stratton engine

This appears to be something for a Briggs and Stratton engine, so I moved it from the Microwave Ovens category.

'Make model (what is is)' in all questions please and in this case (what it is off) as well :>D

Call Jack's Small engines. If he doesn't have it, or know a replacement, no one does!

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/briggs-stratton/briggs-stratton-engine/400000-699999-series/407600-to-407699/407677-0258-e1

images of Regulators. Look similar?

https://www.google.com/search?q=voltage+regulator+407677-0258-E1

..

This is a Briggs & Stratton twin-cylinder 26HP engine that is not charging the battery as it should. I will show you how to test and repair it. In this case, we replace the stator (alternator) to get it back up and working. Thanks for watching! Get your new Briggs Stator/Alternator here: https://amzn.to/30bsc7n (paid link) Get your new Briggs Voltage Regulator here: https://amzn.to/2YlT0A0 (paid link)

30 ac

the two yellows go under the flywheel to the stator , they are a/c current that is converted to 13.8 volts D/C in the voltage regulator .I would not think it being under water would hurt the stator or regulator . Maybe the mud under the flywheel might grind things.

The voltage regulator changes the ac voltage from the stator to dc voltage to keep the battery charging while the engine is running.

Hello there. My name is George. In regards to your problem, there are a few things you need to know. Make sure both battery cables and post are clean and tight. Also check the two bolts holding the voltage regulator onto the side of the engine. A loose voltage regulator will not have the proper grounding to function. Underneath the flywheel is a device called an stator. This stator creates an alternating current or commonly called A/C Voltage. This voltage travels to another external device called an Voltage Regulator. The voltage regulator converts the A/C voltage from the stator to Direct Current or commonly called D/C Voltage to the units battery. Using the Model, Type and Code numbers found on the valve cover, you can call any parts store and they should be able to tell you what type of charging system you have, (i,e. 10 amp, 20 amp etc.) Ask them what the A/C voltage should be coming from the stator. I believe it will be at least 28 to 30 volts a/c. You can measure this voltage by using an ohm meter set to a/c~volts. You must have the engine running full throttle when you do this test. The ideal rpms for this test is 3600.
You would need an tachometer to get it perfect, but full throttle usually gives an a/c output around 28 vac Now with the stator and voltage regulator disconnected and the engine running at full throttle, use the red and black test leads from the ohm meter and put the tips into the wire connector, red on one wire and black on the other. No, it does not make a difference which wire. Read the meter. If it shows the voltage the parts store told you (around 28vac is my guess, then your stator is doing its job. If it is giving you anything less than that the stator is bad. If it is bad, you will need to remove the flywheel to inspect it and or replace it. If its good, Turn off the engine and reconnect the stator and voltage regulator. Now find the single wire coming from the voltage regulator (its normally red) and disconnect it. This wire is the d/c voltage connection going to your battery. Set your ohm meter to d/c volts. Start the engine and let it run full throttle while you put the red test lead into the red wire coming from the voltage regulator and the black to a good ground. If you cant find a good ground then use the negative -(Black) battery post. If you read around 13 to 14 volts d/c then your voltage regulator is good and you have a shorted wire from the voltage regulator to the battery, If its bad then it will read 0 and it will need to be replaced. Feel free to contact me at: [email protected] if you have any other questions. Good Luck.

sounds like a bad voltage regulator

the blades stop when there isnt enough power to engage electric clutch sounds like a charging issue when the engine is running place a voltmeter to the battery there should be over 13 volts if not replace voltage regulator if that doesnt work replace stator

yes it could be

check your battery 1st , then check the stator a/c output

• 10 or 16 Amps DC regulated for charging
battery
• Two black leads (C) from stator
• Yellow connector (D) with two pin
terminals
• Two yellow leads (E) to regulator-rectifier
(F)
• One red lead (B) from regulator-rectifier
to red connector output lead (A)
• 10 and 16 Amp systems use the same
stator, color coding and regulator-rectifier
• Alternator output is determined by the
flywheel alternator magnet size


The stator and regulator-rectifier are the same
for the 10 and 16 Amp systems. The system
output is determined by the flywheel magnet
size.
Test Alternator Output
1. Temporarily disconnect stator wire
harness from the regulator-rectifier.
2. Insert RED test lead (A, Figure 28) into the
V ω receptacle in the meter.
3. Insert BLACK test lead (B) into COM
receptacle.
4. Rotate selector to AC Volts position.
5. Insert RED (A) and BLACK (B) test lead
probes into output terminals (D & E) in
YELLOW connector (C). (Test clip leads
may be attached to either terminal).
6. With the engine running at 3600 rpm, the
output should be no less than:
• 20 volts - 10 Amp System
• 30 volts - 16 Amp System
7. If No or Low output is found, check for
bare wires or other defects. If wiring
defects are not found, replace the stator.
voltage depending on alternator type and magnet size

then check the regulator / rectifier , make sure it is grounded properly

make sure battery earth lead is good

i suspect loss of bat voltage is letting the afterfire solenoid close off the main jet

let me know model and type codes off engine & i will try help further

cheers

a weak diode can cause this or a voltage regulator
13.8 is a good charge at a steady rate