I am capable of running a meter. The Tcom board seems to has at least some voltage on all of the test points labeled GM. Any idea what I can do next?
SOURCE: GE JVM150001 Microwave
Willaim,
I have gone through the testing on the Mini Manual and still have intermittant operation. When I turn the oven on there is a secondary humming noise that indicates the oven is working. I can tell at once if the seconday hum is not there. When the oven starts that econd hum sort of kicks in a second or two after the oven starts. 6 months ago I seated all 4 of the door switches and the oven worked non stop for like 6 months. All of a sudden it went out again like before. Is there more to testing these switches than just continuity or no continuity? Can they be partially bad?
I was going to retest all switches for resistance and connections, as well as Magnatron and other high voltage connections per your Blog
Thanks,
Rwood
SOURCE: The Display is Dim. Hard to read the numbers.
I have the same model and problem. The time display is totally unreadable. Looking for a solution as well. I suspect given the cost (I believe around $60), it's time for a new one. Anyone have any suggestions or easy repair ideas?
SOURCE: My model 14066 just stopped
Have yo checked the fuse inside when you say the fuse is OK? Is it a matter that there no heat or is there no power at the unit what so ever?
I presume there is power at the outlet. Remove the cover and assure the internal fuse is OK. Replace the fuse if it is bad with one exactly like you take out.
If that checks out and you have no sign of life inside the oven (check the power on the oven side of the fuse with a volt meter to prove) you probably cannot fix this. If there is power and it is running but not heating, check the door safety interlock micro switches. These tiny switches tell the oven the door is closed and allow power to flow to the magnetron.
Thanks for using FixYa.com
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