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GE fridge has loud clicking noise; model freezer on bottom.
All doors are closed. Fridge remains cool. Temperature gauges are blinking. Reset temp, clicking went away; but, reappeared the next day (temp guages blinking and loud clicking noise).
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If you have tried resetting the temperature settings to the default values and the temperature remains at -9°F in the fridge and 37°F in the freezer, there could be an issue with the fridge's cooling system. Here are some additional things to check:
1. Make sure the fridge is receiving power. Check to see if the fridge is plugged in and that the outlet is functioning properly.
2. Check the temperature control board. The temperature control board is responsible for regulating the temperature in the fridge. If it is faulty, it can cause the temperature to remain at a fixed, incorrect value.
3. Check the condenser coils. If the condenser coils are dirty or obstructed, it can cause the cooling system to malfunction and result in incorrect temperatures.
4. Check the door gasket. If the door gasket is damaged or not sealing properly, it can cause the temperature inside the fridge to become too warm.
If none of these solutions fix the issue, it is possible that there is a problem with the fridge's cooling system. In this case, it is recommended to contact a professional appliance repair service for further assistance.
Regarding the ice maker working intermittently, this could be caused by a variety of factors such as low water pressure, a faulty water inlet valve, or a problem with the ice maker itself. It is recommended to troubleshoot these issues separately.
The cause is the digital display is not communicating with the motherboard. The plug connection between the door's digital display and the motherboard might have unplugged. The wire running from the motherboard runs below the fridge and connects via plug located along the bottom of the fridge below the freezer door, connecting to the wire running from the display to the bottom of the freezer door. Just reconnect it and that should reset the display.
The door being open so long caused warm moist air to collect and freeze inside the unit.
Take everything out, unplug it and let it thaw out for an entire day. All the frost will thaw, and probably run water all over the place so put towels down.
check the defrost thermostat , and any temp sensor that can determine the freezer temperature. If this fridge temperature is electronically controlled, the freezer control board must also be tested. Click here to get all parts and diagrams for this fridge.
Had the same problem on my GE bottom freezer fridge. It finally died a few days ago. The clicking came from a relay on the main circuit board under a access cover on the back of the fridge. Ordered a new circuit card from GE ($157.50 + ship/handeling), replaced it, and the fridge works great. I have an electronics background but if you take your time and are safe, I think anybody would be able to change it.
Your "freezer" and "refridgerator" temps are not jumping back to 14 and 44 respectively. When you change temps, they both wait 3-5 seconds before they revert back to a temp reading, not a temp setting.
Does your "freezer" make any loud or thumping noises? If not, do you hear a quiet whisper when both compartment doors are closed?
Solutions could be :
1. Servicing the coolant (might have a small leak)
2. Checking the seal on your freezer compartment (black rubber that meets the metal frame)
3. Your internal cooling fan is not operating and needs replacing (but I think your temps would be significantly higher).
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