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1) Product warranty will be voided if you install 4500 watt elements in year-2008 model MR50238 3800 watt marathon tank. Older 3800 watt element models have been discontinued.
3) Product warranty is voided if element wattage exceeds label on side of unit.
4) Marathon has a problem with elements burning out frequently. To solve this problem, they suggest installing element with lower wattage, such as the 3800 watt. Upper 3800 SP610130 Lower 3800 SP210197
Maybe a dumb question, but what do you need a transformer for a washing machine? Washers typically plug into a standard 120 volt 15 amp outlet. To figure out the wattage, use the simple formula, P=E x I. There will be a tag somewhere on the machine stating current draw, which is "I", "E" is your voltage, and "P" is your wattage which is what you'll figure out after reading the label on the machine.
what wattage are the subs and amp? if your subs are more wattage than your amp, your amp will blow fuses as cant handle the output to your subs. for example. you have 2 500 watt subs and a 300 watt amp, that is no good as amp isnt powerful enough. if you have 2 500 watt subs you need at least a 1200 watt amp to power them both. 200 watt more than the combined wattage of subs as amps should never be turned up to max as they tend to blow and overheat more quickly. 80% volume on amps is reccomended by installers and manufactures.
Good day, That sounds about right, however if your generator is rated in wattage the amps times volts won't work. On an induction unit, such as a refrigerator, the wattage is volts times power factor times amps. Nominal wattage should be around 375 watts. However, during auto defrost the heater will probably be around 450 watts. As well, locked rotor amps on starting will be about 4 times running amps approx. 18 to 20 amps. so your generator will have to be able to handle that. The short and long of it is give yourself wiggle room.
The main page of the product home for this unit is here:
Whirlpool ETOMSRXTQ
The only info I saw was '15 Amps' which is only the breaker rating not the actual current draw although input surge could be ~10 Amps but I doubt that the power consumption is over 400-500 watts.
It may be mentioned in the specs but they are all .pdf files and when they are over ~100 kbytes, I don't bother with them.
Just click on the link below and you will be directed to a page which states the key fetures and reviews. It states the wattage of the amp clearly. Hope this can be of help.
600 watts.
Samsung MU3050W Microwave Oven
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Programmable Cooking. White Cabinet. 15 Min. Timer Optional Mounting.
0.5 Cavity. 600W Output Power IEC-705 Mech. Control Type. MW
Distribution - Turntable. 1 Power Level.
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The advertised wattage for your amp is:
300 watts RMS X 2 @ 4 ohms
600 watts RMS X 2 @ 2 ohms
The actual wattage you will be using will depend on what type/impedence speakers you are using, and how they are wired. Here's a link to some more of the specs of your amp: http://www.bazooka.com/productAutoAmplifiersRS.asp?id=199
I hope this helps.
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