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Peter Wa Posted on Feb 13, 2017

How to open Velodyne CHT-8Q. I unscrewed 12 pcs of big screws on back side , but can't pull out

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Michael Edwards

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  • Posted on Jul 30, 2017
Michael Edwards
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Joined: Jan 16, 2010
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You need to remove 12 outer screws, then remove the amp it might be held in with gasket.

There is a repair shop Edwards Electronics they are master's at repair. They are on web and eBay.

  • Peter Wa
    Peter Wa Aug 12, 2017

    It's not helpful,that part which always be pull out easily, but stuck, maybe stick with some glue or schotch tape.or something else.
    But thanks for your answer.

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

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  • Posted on Jan 04, 2009

SOURCE: Velodyne ULD-12 driver voice coil sensor availability

Contact Velodyne. That is the only source for this part.

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Anonymous

  • 124 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 02, 2009

SOURCE: I hear some noise coming out from the woofer of CHT-12R

It very well could be the spaker leads hitting the speaker cone.

You could check this by removing the amp section from the back.
Remove the screws at the very edge of the amp panel.


budmrtn

Bud Martin

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  • Posted on Nov 15, 2009

SOURCE: My velodyne CHT-12 subwoofer does not turn on

Check for blown fuse?

Anonymous

  • 235 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 24, 2009

SOURCE: took apart, pull magnets from sides, now the thing

ECARRERO2004 - Those 'magnets' you removed from the sides of your mixer are the electric motor brushes that provide power to the commutator/armature assembly so your motor runs. Did you remove the brushes to replace them or were you just inspecting them? I'd suggest removing them again and making sure the contacts are facing in the right direction to contact the commutaor. The concave contact face should be resting completely on the comutator. If you've turned it 90 degrees too much, it wont' seat properly and you'll get no 'juice' to the electric motor so it won't start. I hope this helps - Howard, Burke, VA
If this solution has helped you, please rate it. hslincoln

Anonymous

  • 235 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 24, 2010

SOURCE: I unscrewed the rubber "screws" on side and now I have no power

Hi CURIOUSHBGEO, I hate it when that happens. Those ‘rubber (plastic) “screws”’ are your mixer’s electric motor brushes. The slotted black threaded plastic parts are just the Brush Holder Caps and are the protective covers to the brush holder assemblies. They allow access to the brushes when they need to be replaced without having to take the whole mixer head apart.
From what you’ve described, I suspect that one or both of the brushes is (are) not seated properly when you reinstalled them. The brushes need to be installed so that they both seat correctly on the armature's commutator or you won’t get any ‘juice’ to the motor. See the illustration below: c8a97bc.jpg
I'd suggest removing them again and making sure the concave contact face rests completely on the armature’s commutator. If you've turned it 90 degrees too much, it won’t seat properly and you get no power to the motor.
It would also be helpful to have the Parts List manual on hand. If you're lacking one, you can download a PDF version from the KA website at: http://www.kitchenaid.com/flash.cmd?/#/page/home.
Click on Customer Care>Locate Manuals & Guides> Enter the 6 character model number, in your case use K45SSW, and select the first file K45SSWH0.pdf (341.41 KB) listed under Parts List (1) and then check to verify this matches your mixer model.
Turn to pages 6 & 7, titled “Motor And Control Parts”, which provides an exploded view for the disassembly and reassembly of your mixer’s electrical components, along with all the parts. Locate Illus No 32, Brush holder assembly that includes Illus. Nos. #18, 21, 22, 23 & 31, and Illus. No. 19, Brush & Spring assembly respectively.
The Parts List illustration along with the picture above regarding the orientation of the brushes should get your mixer powered back up and operational. Good luck! I hope this helps. Howard, Burke, VA
If this solution has been helpful to you, please rate it, thanks! -hslincoln

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The driver has a soft foam rubber gasket behind it. It can act like glue on the driver.
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You can try to lever the driver out. Use care not to scratch the baffle.

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