Trane Heater A/C Airflow Control

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If the unit is running in cold weather than there is ice building up on the coils located outside. This is normal in that the unit is running in heat pump mode heating inside and cooling outside, After the unit detects the ice build up it briefly reverses the cycle heating the outside coils melting(defrosting) the ice which you observe as water on the pad.

The video gives you an example of the defrost cycle!
2012 Trane XL15i Heat Pump Defrost Cycle Steam Show

http://www.trane.com/content/dam/Trane/residential/downloads/manuals/22-5213-WEB01_Outdoor_Units.pdf

It is possible you misunderstood. Are you sure the unit does not have a filter AT THE UNIT, therefore you SHOULD NOT have one in your return air grills. You don't want to double filter so I would be sure, but as stated YES you always have a filter. Maybe the installer has the u.v. light so close to the filter that it burns it??? Sounds to me like you need a professional out to assess the unit, possibly for a one time maintenance??? A professional, not the guy who possibly told you that and installed the unit. But, once again as stated, maybe you need a duct cleaning as well. Best Wishes

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

13 seer minimum for new installs. I have seen ratings as high as 18 or more on
some units (410A systems)
I recently replaced my system with a 13 seer R22 system, since they are
more easily serviced and I am very familiar with them. Given the average lifespan of
a system before major service is around 10 years depending on model.
I have worked on Trane, Carrier, Intertherm and Goodman units and prefer the Goodman
units, as they seem to be much quieter running and are built in America.

I have the same problem on my Trane XV90/XL14i system. Do these switches go bad?

Hi, I want you to try a couple of things for me if you will. Go to the thermostat and remove the cover. Now if you have a small bladed screw driver, loosen all the screw on this next section and remove it. Turn off power to the unit, if it is a split system, turn off the indoor unit. Once you remove this section which is the thermostat you will see the subbase and wiring. Take the red wire loose and off of the terminal. You may have a red jumper wire going from RH to RC. Remove the red wire coming into the stat at either point. Give it a minute and see if the fan stops now. If it does, you will need to replace the stat. If not, depending on the age of your unit, if your high limit/fan control tripped, that will be the problem. Some units have a fan control combination high limit that trips causing the fan to run all the time. You need to take a look at your heater section at the front of it to see what kind you have. If it is a combination fan/limit. it will be inserted into the fire box. It is square looking box with a cover on it some with a auto/ manual button on them Sometimes the contats will stick causing the fan to run. They can be removed with power off and cleaned up. They will have a dial with a temperature reading on them which tells the fan to come on when it reaches this set-point and off when it cools down. It may have stuck closed. Check what I have told you with the stat, and this and let me know the age of heater and if it is a split system Trane with a remote condenser and furnace located somewhere else. Get back to me on this.
Shastalaker7

To vague.Depends on application, i.e. forced air(add on with heating existing), geo thermal, heat pump, etc...Not to mention size of system(tonnage), brand, seer, existing modifications to delling.Commercial or Residential, zoning, local/state ordinences/codes.Title 24.Cash or finance options.

Really in short, a dumb question.Sorry for the straight talk.

99.99% of the modern residential units use only one transformer to power the 24 volts for both the furnace and the a/c unit. It will be located in the furnace. The outdoor unit will not have its own transformer unless its reeallllly old. Place a small jumper wire between w1 & w2 terminals on the thermostat. (The lux brand is not the professionals choice) (if you have problems replace with a honeywell or white rodgers brand).
Good luck.....

I corrected the problem...RH is rising nicely!! Installed by "professionals" on my Trane XV90....I redid their wiring and now have the following setup...

600A water supply coming from hot water line.
Removed orifice inside incoming feed tube.
control incoming water flow from saddlevalve on hot water supply ( make sure its a nice solid flow, no drips, but no "force" too it either)..enough to insure entire evaporator unit is wet and water is slightly flowing out of bottom to drain.

I also have it wired to run when ever the furnace blower is on. Heat or no heat. XV90 is variable speed, and by doing this the 600a is always adding moisture, until it reaches correct RH%

Also, I disconnected the outdoor temp sensor. I went to Radio Shack and bought a 47K ohm resistor ( 1/2 watt....4 pack for 99 cents). Installed that in place of outdoor sensor...now runs in manual mode. Have unit currently set to number 5.