Question about Rangemaster Kitchen Ranges
Hi Don, no there is no extra fuse in it, at least I have never found one.
I refurbish cookers and sometimes I find that the wires are somewhat burned.
So the heater the ovens come, the more chance there is for a shortcut. That trips the circuitbraker. It is often because of a bad connection.
When this goes on, there may become a burnt wire. In that case there will be no electricity to that part of the cooker.
Did you smell a burning smell in the past when you put the oven on?
On the link I give you, you will find something that may be helpful.
Have a nice weekend, Dik
Replacing Burned Wire Connection in Oven Mom in Music City
Posted on Feb 17, 2018
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: stoves 900DFa dual fuel cooker
check to see if one of the oven elements are burned into if you have an oven cord on it turn the breaker off and check the cord where it connects to the oven
Posted on Mar 15, 2008
SOURCE: rangemaster 110
Hope this helps with your dual fuel version 3 weeks on and working perfectly!
Rangemaster 110. Ovens not lighting due to faulty auto/clock. FIXED!
Our clock /timer kept flashing and would not reset
Someone, somewhere on the internet had the solution to my problem but I can't find the link again to thank them! If you don't mind losing the clock/timer auto function this is for you and it's free! Just takes a bit of time.
Basically you need to lift/open up the LH &RH hobs to get at the wires behind the clock. You should see 2 blue(neutral) wires coming directly from the back of the clock. Pull them out and connect together - should be easy to click them together. Then the ovens will light - but you will lose the auto/clock/timer functions. We only used the timer so not a big issue. We didn't take the control panel off but we did take ages to unscrew the hobs etc Probably took us about 2 hours going back to instruction manual we found on internet and trying to work it out but I think we've saved a lot in not replacing the unit with the usual call out charges. We made sure electrical supply was switched off and just took our time. Really chuffed!
Comment by tinling, posted on Nov 06, 2008 http://www.rangemaster.co.uk/Siteimages/Site_311/BigMedia/RM110Gas_04_06.pdf
This should allow you to see the instruction manual for the 110. There was another one somewhere showing a diagram of how to link the 2 blue wires at the back of the clock but I can't find it again! By the way our cooker is 10 years old so maybe different from newer models. We didn't have to take of the front control panel we accessed everything by lifting up the hobs to get behind the clock/timer.
Hope this helps! Ovens still working just got to go and buy a wee timer.
Posted on Nov 24, 2008
If the fan is running, then it is safe to say that the oven element has gone.
Replace with a new one,(element that is).,
Plz rate this solution.
Posted on Dec 15, 2008
SOURCE: bottom oven not working
A tripped breaker or blown fuse on an electric oven or cook-top, combined with an element that has stopped working, is usually a sign of a shorted, then blown (if the fuse or breaker no longer fail) element.
If you know how to use an ohmeter, you can pull the element, disconnect the wires from each end, then measure the resistance between each end of the element, and each element to the outer sheath.
A good element has just a few ohms of resistance between the wire connection points, and infinite resistance from the wire connection points to the outer sheath. Any readings other than that means the element is bad and need's to be replaced.
Posted on Jan 14, 2009
you have to set the clock befire anything works .if you have done that its could be that the element has failed and the fault current has damaged any of the contacts in the circuit which can be themostat ,timer contact thermal cut out contacts. failure of the timer contacts would leave nothing working
Posted on Aug 04, 2010
Testimonial: "Setting the clock worked a treat thanks for the advice "
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