Question about Honda Electrical Supplies
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had the same problem - the power cord for my Hoover Elite Upright (U5507900) was stuck a few inches out and wouldn't go any further. But when I unscrewed the rewinding mechanism, the cord had clearly gotten twisted and partly buried under itself so after some work I was able to free it. Now it seems to be working fine, at least for the moment. Note that I had to use small screwdrivers to unscrew the cord rewinding compartment, like the kind of screwdrivers you use for computer repair.
Posted on Jun 22, 2009
I had the same problem. I had to take it apart and rewind it manually. To do this:
There are 4-bolts to remove on the orange plastic section the screw into the motor housing (one of them is hidden inside the orange plastic housing, you'll see an opening for it). There are also 3 screws in the black plastic exhaust housing that screw into the orange plastic housing, find those and remove.
Carefully remove the engine from the plastic housing. I didn't disconnect the throttle cable or the electric wires (points) just kind of worked around them.
The mechanism is kind of crappy. There are two black pieces with a spring in the middle, and a metal disc on the bottom with a ribbon coil on the underside of it. The top plastic piece is what turns the flywheel when you pull the cord. The spring in between connects the two plastic piece. This is probably what popped out. There is a piece sticking up on one end, which inserts into the hole in the top black plastic piece. If you remove the little guardrail things you can probably remove just that piece. KEEP TENSIONS ON THE PULL CORD. Once you remove that top black piece, it should start to recoil.
If it did recoil, put the spring back in the top plastic piece, and then put the plastic/spring combo back into the the bottom plastic piece, there is a little groove for the bottom of the spring to slide into. Then put the little guardrail screws back on. Make sure the big metal wire thing hasn't slipped down into the shaft of the weed whacker. That needs to go back into the motor, as it is what gets spun and in turn spins the strings. As you start to put the motor back in, you may have to pull on the pull cord a few times to get the flywheel and plastic piece to line up. Once you hear the motor start to catch, then you should be able to wiggle it back into place and put back all of the screws. Then give it a shot. If it pulls out again, you may have to drill a new hole into the top black plastic piece for that spring to slide into (this is the crappy design part).
If the pull cord didn't retract, you need to remove the other two pieces (lower black plastic piece and metal disc with ribbon). The metal ribbon has a nub on the outside that hooks onto a plastic piece in the bottom of the orange plastic housing. You'll need to wind it around once or twice to "charge" the ribbon, then wind the string back on the black plastic piece. The black piece should slide into the center of the metal disc and catch the inside of the ribbon. Once you get these two together, again, make sure the metal ribbon piece is wound once past normal and then you have to slide both parts together down into the housing catching the metal ribbon loop over the orange plastic nub. It's tricky, it took me a few tries. Once you get that you can try and test the pull cord, you'll see it pull out and feel it retract due to that metal ribbon. Then go back and do step 4, where you put the upper black plastic piece with spring back into place and replace the little metal guardrails.
This whole thing took a few tries, and the pull cord still gets stuck out. It's a major pain to say the least, but after the 5th time fixing it, you'll be a real pro.
Posted on Aug 28, 2009
Ok Motors and the like generally DO NOT really go all that well from a generator, what load does the Stove use?, You must add up the cumlitive "Wattages" of ALL things connected, see your generator is about 3000 Watts, 3KW, How much "headroom" is there between the two? Whats supplied versus whats being used? Purely inductive loads, like Motors etc, are less responsive than electronic loads. I suspect that your generator is NOT providing enough current to the Stove, especially when "Other" things are connected. also. Look, if the, any, generator is 3000 Watts really you should only load it up to a couple of KW's, 2.5KW being about maximum. To do what you are doing would require, IMHO, at least, 5KW, to get the "Headroom" of current drawn over current able to be delivered by the generator. Also inductive loads loose heaps of power and actually cause a higher draw. So that your answer, you must use it well, inside it's rating, not right up to the limit.
Posted on Feb 26, 2010
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The EU3000 series generators are inverter generators. The generator features an alternator, which produced high-voltage, multi-phase AC power. This power is converted to DC power and then converted back to AC. This process is controlled by a microprocessor and is necessary to provide stable, consistent power capable of running equipment sensitive to power surges. This type of generator provides higher fuel efficiency and lower operational noise ratings in a lighter model than home and work generators produced by Honda.
The Honda EU3000i Handi is a 3,000-watt inverter generator that features wheels, folding handle and a recessed convenience light. The engine is a Honda GX160, which features a 163-cc displacement. The AC output is 120 volts, with an average rating of 2,600 watts and a maximum production of 3,000 watts. There are three receptacles to include a 20A, 125-volt duplex and a 30A, 125-volt locking plug. The DC output is 12 volts and 100 watts. The EU3000i can hold 1.56 gallons of unleaded fuel, which will provide consumers with 3.6 hours of run time at 25 percent load for 7.7 hours.
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