LG No Frost fridge freezer makes a layer of ice below the lower drawer of the freezer which I have to remove every 2nd day. Please advise what the problem can be. Thank you

is the fan not working in it..may be jammed up..we had an old unit that did this all the time.. the door seal was bad allowing house humidity inside and it wpuld frost up so bad the fan got stuck..we eventually bought another used unit..

Contact a professional. Sounds like either your damper door is not operating correctly and not letting enough cool air from the freezer enter, or there is an air leak that is making ice form .

Your drain is plugged. When in defrost mode the heater comes on in freezer and melts the frost on coils. Sometimes the frost falls off in a chunk and covers the drain. The heater can only be on for so long until the bi-metal/ defrost thermostat shuts it down. Once the defrost cycle ends the frost turns to ice and builds from there. Your heater is melting the frost and the water has no place to go so it goes under the racks.

To fix remove contents off freezer and remove racks. Remove the back panel 4 screws and you will see your drain plug under the coils. Remove any ice you can see blocking the plug. Now pour hot water into drain until it flows into drip pan under freezer. You can remove back access panel behind fridge at bottom. Once water flows freely though than replace the access panels.

If you leave fridge plugged in while doing this be careful.

Please check the link :

http://www.lg.com/us/support/product/support-product.jsp

If there is no cooling at all on the fridge section but the freezer works then it is confirmed that the compressor and gas pressure is OK. Now shut off the fridge and leave it powered off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.
However if ice forms in the freezer then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked. Frost formation without defrosting could block the air flow and so shut the air passage to the fridge. Also the blower fan must work and if this is not working then the fan can be faulty. Also a fault on the control unit is a suspect to non functioning of any one of these components.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test using a multi-meter on the defrost timer and the thermostat and make your observations so that we come to the solution.

Please check the link below for tips to remove the panels/parts:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/fridges-and-freezers/a/2

for no frost type;cleaning of freezer cub underneat is a must...cloggged drain outlet buildup thick frost on your freezer cub..
.ie..for frost type;you must set your thermostat setting to normal,replace it with new one

Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer

What you have is probably a bad defrost heater element is my first inclination. I would look for frost buildup on the backside of the bottom drawer. That is a sure sign of defrost failure. And most defrost failures turn out to be broken heaters. The defrost heaters mount on the evaporator coils and simply heat the area for a few seconds to melt frost. If left alone that frost will trun into snow and then into air flow blocking slab of ice and fail fresh food cooling. I have a 3 door repair manual you may want to look through just to see what you are up against. To do this repair the ice maker and all the rails drawers bins and food must come out so you can get to the rear where the evap coil and defrost heater is located.

LG FRENCH DOOR REPAIR MANUAL


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

It sound rather like one I used to have (but worse) which was never 100% satisfactory. When it eventually failed we called in a repair man who said it had been faulty since it left the factory.

I advise you to scrap it and but a new one. If you have any similar problems with new equipment, go back to the supplier within the warranty (if you have an extended warranty, then call them out now!).

Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.
Take a bare copper wire and wrap it around a fin near the heater and put the other end a few inches down the drain. The heat convection may prevent it from freezing.

Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.