Question about Whirlpool Freezers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This one sounds like the defrost timer is not working and you are not getting a defrost cycle every 6-8 hours (or when needed). Another issue could be that air (moisture) is getting in from a leaky door seal, etc. and causing the freeze up. If you have a sealed system problem where the cooling coils are not uniformly frosted up then the defrost thermostat will not "know" there is an ice condition and therefore not go into defrost mode (same issue if the defrost t-stat is bad). After you have ALL the ice out of the unit it would be a good idea to take the interior rear cover off so you can view the coils. Start the freezer back up and watch over the next 1/2 hour or so to see that the entire coil is frosting up uniformly. If it isn't you may have a plugged system, a leak causing low refrigerant, etc. If over time the coils look uniformly frosted up you may have a defective defrost heating element itself (no heat, no defrost sort of thing). The defrost elements can be checked with a multimeter for continuity if you know how to do that sort of thing. It's hard to know a person's ability by these forums or if they can tackle certain test procedures.
Posted on Nov 13, 2006
SOURCE: Freezer won't run
There is no reset switch. There is a thermal overload protector mounted on the compressor. Does the compressor hum and then give a click sound. If so your compressor has failed. If the compressor is cold (Room Temperature) and it does not try to run your thermostat may be bad. If so remove the temperature control and jumper the two main wires that connect to the control. Unit should be unplugged to do this operation. Insulated the wires so they do not contact any metal surface. Plug the freezer back in. If it runs and cools replace the thermostat.
Posted on Jul 06, 2008
i dont think so i would look at the compressor kicking out on thermal overload or a faulty thermostat thermostats have two settings cut in cut out your cut in could be bad and not turning the compressor on till the temp reaches melting temps now if your hearing a click buzz then you need to look at the compressor and make sure the compressor fan is running but its not a defrost promblem
Posted on Sep 11, 2008
SOURCE: I have a Kenmore upright
I was made aware of your concern and would like to offer a few ideas you may want to consider. Water dripping down is not a leak during defrost condition as this would be the ice melting. Normally, there would be a drain hose specifically to channel the melted ice/water to a drainage system. The amount of water would then be proportional to the amount of ice melting as with the length of time to completely melt, drain away.
Perhaps you could check the filter/drain screen as well as the drain opening for any blockage/clogging. You could also try checking the same on the drain hose as well as for possible kinks. Additionally, there would be a sensor behind a boxy cover that triggers the system back into operation. If there is still melted ice/water inside the freezer, then the sensor would prevent the unit from turning on completely. You may want to check this sensor and verify that it is dry.
An exploded parts diagram would help you identify/locate the above mentioned parts.
Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.
Posted on Feb 08, 2009
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back
wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10
hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic
adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to
melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from
overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches
close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost
cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
Posted on Sep 19, 2009
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