How can you tell the generators polarity on a pos ground tractor. JICase VA 1942-1945

same as you would a car terminals negative [-] [neg] to negative and positive [+] [pos] to positive

Needs to be polarized on the bike. See manual for proper polarization procedure.

Have you tried flashing your generator? Sometimes the magnets in the generator loose their polarity. Google and YouTube "flashing a generator"
HFLASHING the GEN

Sometimes the magnets lose their polarity. This worked on my brothers $1200 gen. Its worth a try. Good luck!
Check all wires/connections first, Then try this-
(Remove spark plug wire first!)
To flash the field on a small home use generator, get an ext. cord & cut off the female end of it & strip the wires & connect the wires to a 12 volt car or lawn tractor battery, & plug the male end of the cord, into the 120 A.C. side of the generator.

Make SURE that the black wire which is POS/HOT on an A.C. cord, gets connected to the RED/POS. side of the auto battery, & the white wire on A.C. cord gets connected to the BLK./NEG. side of the battery. If the ext. cord wires are not black & white, then the smaller prong of the plug is the POS./HOT

Plug the other end of the ext. cord into the generators 120 volt side (**remove spark plug wire**) & pull the starter cord 4-5 times, then remove the ext. cord, reconnect the spark plug wire, start the unit & plug something of 120 A.C. volts in to see if it works. Then let it run for about a half hour with 2 - 150 watt lights to help re-generate the unit.


Read more:http://www.doityourself.com/forum/outdoor-gasoline-power-equipment-small-engines/188605-recharging-generator-field.html#ixzz29QwjlAOWere's one way-

I work on Goodmans and I vaguely remember something like this.Be sure the neutral (white wire) and the green ground are the same potential. They both tie into the ground bus at the generator.

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Looking at the schematic provided by Maxxsonics, I see what the OP's problem is:
The manual shows one polarity on the sketch of the crossover's input terminals, yet the schematic below it shows the complete opposite polarity!
The output is correct.
Before you turn your crossover (or amp) into a smoke-generator, I suggest:
Double check your actual tweeter's input for labelled, silk-screened or embossed polarity and channel (Wf/Tw) markings, as manual may have errors on either drawing (top) or schematic (bottom).
If in doubt, try this:
With a DMM on ohms scale, and [font color="red"]Power Off[/font], from ground (chassis) to first input terminal, note down resistance.
Repeat ground to 2, Gnd to 3, Gnd to 4, all INputs..
The low readings should be negative (aka shielded screen or common GND).
However, the DMM test won't tell you which is Woofer or Tweeter.
Alternatively, you could undo the X-over shell, then trace the terminals to the board.
Negatives should go to ground (unless it's isolated in circuit).
To confirm which is yo 'Wofaah' and 'Tweetah' input, (shell and power back on), touch 2 mono wires from a small output (earphone of CD player, cassette, trannie radio etc) to each input and listen for Woofer bass and Tweeter treble difference.
Hope this helps you.

The 3010 24v JD system is not a true 24v system. It is a balanced split 12v system, with one positive ground battery and one negative ground battery. The only 24 volt accessory is the starter, where the batteries meet in a series to provide 24 volts for starting. All other accessories are 12v, half powered by the positive ground battery and half powered by the negative battery. The generator charges one battery in one direction and the other battery in the reverse direction. Therefore a 24v alternator is not easily adapted to this system.
The usual solution is to change to a 12v system with an alternator, changing the starter to 12v and changing the polarity of the positive ground battery to negative ground.
The cost of a 12v starter and alternator is far less than the cost of a 24v alternator, plus the added benefit of using 12v lights and other accessories.
JD switched to this 12v type of system with alternator during the 20 series production, but used two 6v batteries in a series due to the larger cranking amp rating of the 6v batteries occupying the same physical space.

If its been sitting a long time you may have to flash the rotating fields. ( residual magnatism is to low or gone ),Try plugging a drill in the receptacle while generator is running and turn the chuck as fast as you can in the direction where you can feel resistance.If this doesn't work. put 12vdc( car battery works fine) to your collector rings for 1 second or so. be sure to observe polarity. you put positive to pos. and negative to neg.

This is unusual since the generator is usually pretty tough. I've got one question. Are you properly "polarizing" the generator? To "polarize" the generator, you need a piece of wire that will reach from the battery to the generator.

"With the generator on motorcycle and connected to regulator, connect one end of a jumper wire to the generator armature terminal. Momentarily touch the other end of the jumper wire to the positive terminal of the battery. This restores the magnetism, Remove the jumper."

This is directly out of an H-D service manual. The 'polarizing" procedure should be done anytime any part of the charging system is removed from the bike. Since a generator produces a DC current, this insures that the current is of the correct polarity.

Also, make sure that the voltage regulator that is bolted to the frame is well grounded. It depends on this ground to regulate the voltage. We usually put one of the "star" type lock washers between the regulator and the frame on each of the mounting bolts. The teeth on the washer dig into the frame and the body of the regulator providing a good ground. And, make sure that you've got the wires properly connected. The green wire goes to the "Field" terminal and the two tan wires go to the 'Armature" terminal. If you need a complete schematic, contact me directly at [email protected]

Good Luck
Steve

Check brushes. Must be at least 1/2 " long. Check all connections. To flash field: use 12 volt battery neg. - goes to machine ground. Pos + goes to the pos+ brush, the one that's not grounded. Give it a couple seconds on the 12 volts.


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There is no need for a resistor of any kind. The light should be run with the feed coming from the power breaker and the ground side connected to the “A” post of the Generator. Resistors were added by some companies to prevent the light from flickering at low RPMs. If the Generator is working properly there is no need for a resistor. Be sure to polarize the generator properly as failing to polarize the generator is the most common cause of a Gen light that won't go out.