I have a Vizio e601i-a3 and this tv is one of serial number,defective tv. Took cover off and checked voltages on power supply/led board. Notices that no voltages coming out of cn301 terminal connection. Also tried it with terminal connection off.Still the same thing T-con board has been replaced with the new t- con board ZC. Wish is the new replacement board for this series. Old t-con board shows the same symptom.Since no voltages coming out of cn301. Does this mean the power supply/led board needs to be replaced? I want to make sure it is not the backlight leds that is bad, before replacing some or all the boards. BTW: What is the voltages that should be coming out of terminalconnection at CN301? Also, terminal connection at cn201 shows the correct voltages coming off this side of the board. Need some help here? Where do I go from here?
SOURCE: I got a Sony Bravia
http://www.smpcshop.com/KDL-40WL135-KDL-46WL135-p-8895.html
Above is a link for a service manual.
Hi, well I applaud you for starting in the right place, The power supply, as, if, that isn't right nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins.
Gee it seems that you have replaced just about the entire "Guts" of the set, in the industry we call this the "Shot gun" method, however it seldom works in reality. One really needs to isolate the Cause, of the "Fault" and repair that and also any damage done by that. As if one doesn't remove the "Cause"
it will simply fault again when the "New" bit is connected up. One needs to get the unit going section by section, testing and proving the prior section before connecting up to the next, which also must be tested to make sure that what you are going to connect will NOT damage what you are connecting it to.
Also unfortunately, these LED's Blinks, are NOT an error code in actual fact.
What you need to do is use the service manual, and follow through the troubleshooting steps, to isolate and hopefully repair your problem.
Basically it is all about voltages and if they are correct, a Higher voltage than stated usually means a component is Open circuit or a very high resistance, whereas a Lower than stated voltage usually indicates a Short Circuit, or low value resistance component, is "Faulty". These are all in the SM, as are the waveforms that must be checked, it is indeed very difficult to repair electronics these days without specialised equipment and even though I have over 30 years experience i find it difficult, so good luck.
I have this same problem with my Vizio. Model E601i-A3
60" LED, believe. Maybe 64"
Anyway, the solution is much simpler than these other answers make it sound. 1) Unplug tv from wall.
2) Unplug all external devices (all HDMI ports, any cable hookups, any rgb/vga connections, and any speakers attached.)
3) Unplug USB drives/attachments.
4) Plug TV back into outlet.
It should power up just fine. Then you can go ahead and reattach all your devices WITH THE TV SCREEN ON, reattach your USB sticks and you should be good to go.
Every time the TV is moved or is unplugged for any period of time, follow these procedures. The real culprit is the USB drives - the TV, like many laptops I've had, can't boot up with them attached. Thankfully once the TV learns what they are they no longer have to be removed.
SOURCE: How do I fix power issue with Vizio TV
Is this the same main board as yours as shown in this thread?
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...light=SV422XVT
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...light=SV422XVT
There are two fuses and 3-pin voltage regulator ICs that need to be checked and report the result as shown in this thread:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
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Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956
Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999
Inverter testing using old CFL:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl
Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/
TV Factory reset codes listing:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809
To get help need to know exactly what the symptoms are so that wrong boards do not get replaced. Now doesn't that make sense?
The led is what makes the picture try replacing that it it's the only one you didn't change out
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