Why is sewing machine thread gathering under fabric?

Tension should not have a large affect on gathering other than one thread will lay on top of the fabric instead of both threads meeting in the middle of the fabric. There are several different kinds of gathering/ruffler feet, so it is difficult to address appropriately.

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Sounds like birds nest or thread nests. HINT: When threading the top thread, ALWAYS have the presser foot in the RAISED position.

Birds nest under the fabric big loops of thread top side looks good...

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Please check your fabric results. Is it the bobbin thread that is accumulating under the fabric, or is it really the top thread that is globbing and knotting under the fabric. Usually, thread mishaps under the fabric are the result of an issue with the top thread.

ALWAYS RAISE the presser foot when threading the upper thread. This releases the tension disks so the thread will seat properly. Use a brand new needle. Start out with the upper thread tension set midway between high & low numbers, although this can be tweaked.

If it is in fact the upper thread, then here are some suggestions:

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You can always gather on a sewing machine, no matter its age or model.

Usually, I like to set the upper tension looser so the upper thread shows on the bottom of the fabric. Set the straight stitch length to very long. Stitch two lines of stitching about 1/4" apart on the fabric.

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You need to tighten the upper thread tension so that the thread does not accumulate under the fabric.
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Your thread tension is too high. Also, since you are sewing light-weight fabric, you may want to add some tissue paper to the fabric sandwich to help give it more body and limit the gathering effect.

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Normally to gather fabric, you select the regular straight stitch, turn the stitch length up to maximum (4 or 5 usually), and stitch two rows of stitches, one at 10mm from edge and one at 20mm from edge.

Then gather by pulling the bobbin threads (underneath ones) from each end to gather the fabric. If doing lengths of more than 1 metre, then stop, leave long thread tails, and start a fresh length of gathering threads to avoid gathering long lengths of thread which might break on you.

If your machine has a basting stitch it might look like " .___.___.___" on the dial however, I've never been that happy with machine basting for things like attaching slippery fabric to underlining, I've always done it with needle and thread to keep the two layers matching and not stretching/slipping. For example, stitching a piece of chiffon to a underlayer of satin, even pinning carefully, these two fabrics will slip under the machine foot so I'd always do it by hand.

If you have masses of fabric to gather, sometimes what is quicker is doing a large wide zig zag over a length of perle cotton (heavier than thread) at the 15mm seam, don't let the needle pierce the cotton though. Then you can gather the fabric along the perle cotton.

Sewing machine instruction manual often assumes a knowledge of sewing techniques that you may not yet have. I have the Vogue Book of Sewing on my shelf and refer to it often. Or Singer do a good range of sewing books too, its worth investing in a good reference book.

I also love www.patternreview.com, this is such an awesome website for dressmakers/sewing enthusiasts and you will find loads of helpful tips here.

Hope this helps you a little.

Try a new needle and rethreading. Check your threading by putting the presser foot up , then pull thead, should move smoothly, now put presser foot down, now pull, it should barely move. This usually seats the thread in the tension discs.

Hi! I've had this happen to me many times and it is so very frustrating! First, take the bobbin out and also the bobbin assembly and clean the entire area of all lint, fuzz, little bits of thread....get it as clean as you can. Take out the upper thread too. Clean and oil. Change the needle. Make sure you're using the appropriate size and type of needle and thread for the fabric. Take off the needle plate and look for any nicks or scratches. If you've got them, you can get emery cloth from a good hardware store (often in the plumbing department) and polish them out (or mostly out).

Rethread the machine, carefully following the instruction manual. Use your basic, normal settings. Using a scrap of the fabric you're trying to gather, sew a seam and see if everything works ok. You may need to hold the top and bobbin thread firmly behind the needle as you sew the first few stitches (I find this little trick helps a lot to prevent birdsnests).

To gather, sew three parallel lines of long, basting stitches (you really don't need a special foot or special settings other than to make the stitch a long one). Don't backstitch, reverse, or lockstitch either end, and leave the thread long when you cut it. Pull the three bobbin threads and the fabric with gather nicely along them.

Something to keep in mind--if you're trying to gather very sheer fabric on a zigzag machine, you may need to replace the throat plate with the zigzag hole for a throat plate with a single, small hole for a straight stitch. I've run into this situation before, and ended up using one of my antique straight-stitch only machines to do the gathering.

If you don't have a throat plate with the single hole, you might try some light weight interfacing to give some density to the sheet fabric.


Hope this helps!