Capabilities of the Robin 2400is generator

The "control unit" is the rectifier/inverter. The alternator side is 3 phase (volts and frequency IDK), but the answer would be no.

No idea but somebody else will probably come along with a better idea then mine, seems a lot of these generators have this thing installed on them (Has $25 hard start kit). Not sure what it does or how it works. Strangely enough you said you use it for 240 volt. Looked at the picture and didn't see a 240 volt connection.
If you are using the what look like the 120 volt circuits you can't over load the unit. Maximum current draw will cause it to go into protection mode and shut down the power load. The following is an exert from the owners manual which I got from Yamaha's site. Link at the end of this post.

Hope this helps


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16
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q
760-029
AE00788
Overload indicator light
The overload indicator light
1
comes on when an over-
load of a connected electrical device is detected, the
inverter control unit overheats, or the AC output voltage
rises. The electronic breaker will then activate, stopping
power generation in order to protect the generator and
any connected electric devices. The AC pilot light
(green) will go off and the overload indicator light (red)
will stay on, but the engine will not stop running.
When the overload indicator light comes on and power
generation stops, proceed as follows:
1. Turn off any connected electric devices and stop
the engine.
2. Reduce the total wattage of connected electric
devices within the application range.
3. Check for blockages in the cooling air inlet and
around the control unit. If any blockages are found,
remove.
4. After checking, restart the engine.
http://www.yamahamotorsports.com/assets/service/manuals/0/LIT-19626-01-23_1423.pdf

You may have knocked something loose inside. Take off the generator end cover and look for anything obvious. There is nothing to loose at this point.

Try opening the high speed jet about 1/8 turn. If that don't work clean the carb.

Did you ever fix the problem?

What type of load (electrical) was hooked up to this generation?? If the surge voltage and current was exceeded above the generator maximum for any length of time. There problems, it could be the regulator, insulation burnt off the windings.


I am taking a guess here. Now, 7100 Watts is it typical surge wattage. This mean that the generator will deliver 7100 Watt (voltage times current) this is know as the power factor. The actual operating load would be 6800 Watts and I would even operator the generator at its peak wattage. Something in the neighborhood of 10--15% less the peak wattage. Therefore a good positive theatrical Wattage would be 5800 to 6350 operating wattage. Then this generator would run all day.



Just remember Ohm's Law. Current plays a big factor in loading of a generator while the operation voltage is at 120 AC Volts. Example: electric motor; Now electric motor when starting will pull three time its operation current. Operating current for a 1/2 HP AC motor is 6 amperes but start this electric motor will require 18 amperes. This is one reason why they starting capacitors on smaller electric motors. Larger three phase electric motor can literal stop a generator cold...in its tracks. It put such a large demand on the generator it stops the engine powering the generator. I have seen crankshaft break because the generator could handle the heavy current load.



Remember, any time you are running a small gas powered generator. All ways figure what the load and surge current load will be before hooking up any generator. Normally this is figured in VA (volt/amps). Wish you lock. GB...stewbison

measure ouput on ALL available sockets - anything?
Take cover off electric motor-generator, visually inspect windings.
Measure continuity of all stator windings (2 or 3 points usually)
Measure continuity of stator thru brushset.
If all measures ok - has to be AVR module.

There is no mistery in generator - just stator to induce and rotor to obtain voltage.

You dont say whether this is a newly developed problem or an unexpected one. Has it ever powered these items? If yes, then the unit needs to be checked out that it has not got bad brushes on the generators commutator.

1) check the wattage required to run each one. and compare it to the watts output of the Gen Set Microwaves are usually about 600-1000W and most generators of a portable nature are about 600W 25amps

A/C require a generator capable of 1KVA to power any decent size A/C other than a small window unit for a small caravan and certainly not a Mwave A/C at thye same time without showing signs of variant output( dimming)

Perhaps more information is needed here.

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wat size c/breaker
6600 divide 240 = amp
rule of thumb

On average, a rooftop unit with pull 14 to 16 amps depending on the ambient temperature. I am not sure how big your microwave is but we will assume 1000W. The TV really doesn't pull that much. So, you have 16 amps at the Air Conditioner, 8.5 Amps at the Microwave and we will say 5 amps at the TV. Lets not forgot the converter for the coach which pulls 3 to 5 amps on average. Add all of these amps together and you have 34.5 on the high end. To get the size Wattage of generator needed to run 34.5 amps, you take 34.5 and multiple it by the electricity source, in your case 120V. That means that you have 4,140 Watts of power to be used max. I think that with a 4000 watt generator, you will be fine. You may be able to go a little bit smaller if your microwave is not that large. To find the amps of the microwave that you have, take the wattage and divide it by 120. That will give the average amps that it pulls while running.

Hope this helps,

Jeff