2006 EXT lower control arm removal procedure

jack the vehicle right up so that the the wheels are clear of the floor . Place vehicle on jack stands
release the tension on the torsion bar by removing the adjuster in the arm. you may have to use Stiltons or pipe wrench to get the last bit of tension out of the bar . remove and retainers and tap the bar out of the splines.of the lower control arm. mark the bar so that you will know which spline to use for reassembly
remove the lower control arm.

You need to loosen the torsion bar adjusting bolts until all the tension is removed, remember to mark a reference point from bar to frame so you can get close to the correct riding height after reassembly. Can't tell if you split the ball joint from the knuckle from your explanation but a couple of good solid whacks to the lower knuckle will unlock it. Mark & remove the control arm bushing bolts and use a pry bar to push out arm @ bushings.

it sounds like your front leaf springs need to be re arched or your coil springs are shot i dont believe you can adjust that bar

to remove lower control arm bushings you need to remove control arm from vechicle have control arm bushings pressed out.you need to remove disconnect torsion bar,remove shock absorber,disconnect stabilizer bar link, remove axle half shaft, remove the lower ball joint, remove control arm mounting bolts, then remove lower control arm.

Hello! First diagram is the lower...Second is the upper..Guru...saailer

LOWER IDENTIFICATION:




Item
Part Number Description 1
5495 Stabilizer Bar Link Bolt and Bushing Assembly 2
18A192 Nut, Washer and Bushing Assembly 3
808264 Bolt 4
5005 Frame 5
5B326 Torsion Bar (LH) 6
5B327 Torsion Bar (RH) 7
620481 Nut 8
5C491 Nut and Washer 9
3079 Front Suspension Lower Arm (LH) 10
3078 Front Suspension Lower Arm (RH) 11
3A130 Tie Rod End 12
808166 Nut 13
808167 Nut 14
5K483 Front Stabilizer Bar Link 15
5482 Front Stabilizer Bar 16
5484 Front Stabilizer Bar Bushing 17
3B353 Front Stabilizer Retainer 18
N807396-S100 Bolt A
- Tighten to 40-55 Nm
(30-40 Lb-Ft) B
- Tighten to 150-200 Nm (111-148 Lb-Ft) C
- Tighten to 21-29 Nm
(15-21 Lb-Ft)


UPPER IDENTIFICATION:
Item Part Number Description 1 3C156 Damper Assembly (RH) 2 805348 Nut and Washer 3 - Shock Absorber Insulator
(Part of 18198) 4 3C157 Damper Assembly (LH) 5 3020 Front Suspension Bumper 6 3083 Front Suspension Upper Arm Assembly A - Tighten to 34-47 Nm
(25-35 Lb-Ft)



LOWER DIAGRAM FOLLOWED BY UPPER:



I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

YOU HAVE TO SUPPORT LOWER ARM WITH A JACKS THEN REMOVE HEAT PROTECTOR,REMOVE BUMPER STOPPER, REMOVE ANCHOR ADJUSTMENT NUT AND ARM ASSEMBLY,REMOVE ANCHOR COLLAR,REMOVE TORSION BAR AND DUST COVERS.

General Description
The front suspension allows each wheel to compensate for changes in the road surface without affecting the opposite wheel. Each wheel independently connects to the frame with a steering knuckle, ball joint assemblies, and upper and lower control arms.
The control arms specifically allow the steering knuckles to move in a three-dimensional arc. Two tie rods connect to steering arms on the knuckles and an intermediate rod. These operate the front wheels.
The two-wheel drive vehicles have coil chassis springs. These springs are mounted between the spring housings on the frame and the lower control arms. Double, direct acting shock absorbers are inside the coil springs. The coil springs attach to the lower control arms and offer ride control.
The upper part of each shock absorber extends through the upper control arm frame bracket. This bracket has two grommets, two grommet retainers, and a nut.
A spring stabilizer shaft controls the side roll of the front suspension. This shaft is mounted in rubber bushings that are held by brackets to the frame side rails. The ends of the stabilizer shaft connect to the lower control arms with link bolts. Rubber grommets isolate these link bolts. Rubber bushings attach the upper control arm to a cross shaft. Frame brackets bolt the cross shaft.
A ball joint assembly is riveted to the outer end of the upper control arm. A rubber spring in the control arm assures that the ball seats properly in the socket. A castellated nut and a cotter pin join the steering knuckle to the upper ball joint.
The inner ends of the lower control arm have pressed-in bushings. The bolts pass through the bushings and join the arm to the frame. The lower ball joint assembly is a press fit in the lower control arm and attaches to the steering knuckle with a castellated nut and a cotter pin.
Ball socket assemblies have rubber grease seals. These seals prevent entry of moisture and dirt and damage to the bearing surfaces.
Four-wheel drive models have a front suspension that consists of the control arms, a stabilizer bar, a shock absorber, and right and left torsion bars. The torsion bars replace the conventional coil springs. The lower control arm attaches to the front end of the torsion bar. The rear end of the torsion bar mounts on an adjustable arm at the crossmember. This arm adjustment controls the vehicle trim height.
Two-wheel drive vehicles have tapered roller sheel bearings. These bearings are adjustible and need lubrication.
Four-wheel drive models and RWD Utilities have sealed front-wheel bearings. These bearings are pre-adjusted and need no lubrication.
Heat treatment may create darkened areas on the bearing assembly. This discoloration does not signal a need for replacement.
Hope this helps?

1. Raise and support the vehicle with safety stands. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
2. Remove the tire and the wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Wheels, Tires and Alignment.
3. Unload the torsion bar. Refer to Torsion Bar and Support Assembly Replacement
4. Remove the wheel driveshaft nut and washer.

1. Disengage the wheel driveshaft from the wheel hub and bearing assembly. Place a brass drift against the outer end of the wheel driveshaft in order to protect the wheel driveshaft threads. Sharply strike the brass drift with a hammer. Do not attempt to remove the wheel driveshaft from the wheel hub and bearing assembly at this time.
2. Remove the stabilizer shaft. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Replacement (RWD) or Stabilizer Shaft Replacement (4WD).
3. Remove the shock absorber. Refer to Shock Absorber Replacement (RWD) or Shock Absorber Replacement (4WD).

1. Remove the nuts and bolts securing the lower control arm to the crossmember and the frame bracket.
2. Remove the lower ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Refer to Lower Ball Joint Replacement (RWD) or Lower Ball Joint Replacement (4WD).
3. Remove the lower control arm from the frame.

have fun and be careful wear always lens and gloves

1995-2005 Models NOTE: The following procedure requires the use of the torsion bar unloader tool No. J-36202 or equivalent.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Remove the transmission shield, if equipped.
3. Install a torsion bar unloader tool to relax the tension on the torsion bar adjusting arm screw; record the number of turns necessary to properly install the tool. Remove the adjusting screw and the unloader tool.
4. Unfasten the lower link mount nut from one side, then disengage the torsion bars. NOTE: Note the direction of the forward end and side of the torsion bar being removed
   
5. Remove the lower link nut from the opposite side.
6. Remove the lower link mount, upper link mount nut, upper link mount and then unfasten the torsion bar from the frame.

To Install:

1. Install the torsion bar and support.
2. Install the upper link mount and mount nut.
   • Tighten the nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm) on 1995-96 models and 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm) on 1997 and later models.
3. Place a jack under the torsion bar to release tension, then install the lower link mount bushing and nut.
   • Tighten the nut to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm) on 1995 models, 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) on 1996-98 models and 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) on 1999 and later models.
4. Install the torsion bar unloader tool and tighten the tool against the adjusting arm the same number turns recorded earlier, then remove the tool. This loads the torsion bars.
5. Install the transmission shield, if removed.
6. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.
7. Check and adjust the Z height as outlined in the wheel alignment portion of this section.

Ball joints First you would start off by unloading the ball joint by jacking up the lower control arm to see if there is indeed tire play indicating bad ball joints, raise the bottom of the tire with a pry bar and see the amount of play that you have thru the ball joint. You can also see if ball joints are bad by looking at the grease zerk on the bottom...BAD ball joints will have the zerk base level with the control arm...There should be atleast .050" sticking out To take apart mark and count the torsion bars. Undo the torsion bars. Remove all components in the way such as your brakes calipers (tie them up so you dont ruin the brake hoses), rotors, 4 wheel drive. Remove the steering knuckle. Check your spindle and bearings while you are in there to see about wear and such. Several ways to get the rivits out...Drill out the center of the rivit...take a dye grinder and cut a X in the head of the rivit and knock out with a hand chissel...or use the tourch (becareful due to the fact of ruining the control arms)...or use an air chissel (cutting an X in the rivit head will aid in removal. Replace with high tension bolts upwards as of grade 8 and use teflon nut with some locktight. Replace steering knuckle and the rest of the components removed in the disassembly. Tighten torsion bars to previous spec. Take vehicle in for an alignment due to having fresh ball joints in. No need ruining new ball joints after vehicle was used to driving with loose ones in