My power jack plugin is loosely connected to the drum and it keeps resetting if I hit it too hard, Also my 1/4 inch right side jack looks to be pushed and it causes feedback severely!

You need to get yourself a cable - with a 3.5mm male jack plug on one end (which will fit into your ipod), and a 1/4 inch male jack plug on the other end.

(you could use a lead with a 3.5mm male plug on each end, and used a 3.5mm female to 1/4 inch male adaptor to achieve this)

Connect the 3.5mm end into the ipod - play a track, with the volume at say, 75%.

Connect the 1/4 inch end of the cable to the 'Mix In' input in the back of your TD20.

Use the 'Mix In' control - at the top right hand side of your TD-20 module to control the volume.

If you wish only to have the iPod going to (for example) headphones - and not Front Of House (PA) speakers - which you will have connected via the Master and / or Direct Out(s); this can be achieved in the 'Mixer' settings (accessed via pressing the 'Mixer' button).

If it is a 60Hz or 120 hz hum, the fault may be a bad solder connection to a filter capacitor in the power supply.

If it is a hum like a bad mic connection, you may have dirty contacts on an input, dirty tracks on a mixer control, even on the EQ portion.

It may also be a bad cable is connected, or a 1/4 inch jacked input may not be grounding out when the plug is removed. You may have a bad ground on the power feed and you have a ground loop as a result, or a cable is faulty and creating it's pwn ground loop to something else.

Contact cleaner is not a bad idea, slide pots are notorious for spurious noise over time. LPS1 is not bad, but it does use silicone as the dry lubricant portion.

If all of that is ruled out, look internally for bad solder joints- anything that looks crumbly is suspect, and also check for loose wires and jacks with bad solder connections. Also look for loose connectors too.

I am very new here and don't know how to answer a question to a specific problem so I will write about the most common problems that I have had over the decades doing guitar amp repairs. If you find that your amp is extremely low in volume and then suddenly comes back to normal- check out the effects return [or power amp in] jack. Especially in Marshall amps-these corrode and your signal dies. If there is loud noise such as hissing and crackling with no guitar patch cord in the input jack- the input jack is likely at fault. They normally have switching contacts that ground part of the input circuit when the 1/4 inch male plug is disconnected. When this in is corroded or too weak to make normal contact, you can get these symptoms. If your amp is a solid state Marshall or Fender and there is a random buzzing sound with no guitar signal connected- hit the side of the amp and listen for the buzz to go away or become louder-if it does, this usually means that the connections are loose at the two large filter capacitors. In one or more Marshall amps, they use a filter circuit in the low voltage power supple for the preamp tubes. If you encounter a dead Marshall[the model escapes me now] remove the circuit board and resolder the four connections at the bottom of the bridge rectifier. If you have any other amplifier repair questions you can email me direct at [email protected].

You are connecting a NOISY unbalnced line to a balanced input. Buy a DI box and then use an XLR to XLR to the mixer inout and run the MAC into the DI with "ground lifted". You will need to make a resistive mixer between the headphone jack and the DI as well. The headphone jack is STEREO. You COULD try a STEREO 1/8 inch splitter to 1/4 inch left and right cable... you MIGHT get away with that. Right now the left and right amps in the MAC are fighting eachother.

I do not understand what you mean by "removing the jack assembly". If you mean you leave it connected but hanging out, the problem is LIKELY you are driving it too hard and the protector is activating. Having it outside would cool the protector. You need to evaluate how much you are sending to this cabinet and see if it is within the ratings. This is a VERY compact speaker rated at 800 Watts peak and 400 Watts PROGRAM... read that as using a 200 Watt RMS amp driving it... for safety. There is a chance that the connections to the speaker are loose and removing the jack puts a load on the connectors... they are probably some of those lousy push on connectors... This is the best plan: Use a sound level meter to make sure you are not exceeding the 118 Db sound pressure level the speaker is capable of. Realize that the kick drum puts pulse type load into the speaker. Most likely you are tripping the PTC speaker protection circuit that is probably located on the jack assembly... the PTC will typically be a disc about the size of a quarter with two leads. It heats up and opens the speaker circuit until it cools down... takes a few seconds. In free air it might not trip due to air cooling. DO NOT drive your speakers too hard... they are EXPENSIVE to replace. If you need more sound put another speaker in parallel. I know a lot of deaf musicians so get a meter and check the SPL... You want to keep it around 85 to 90 Db with peaks that can go to a little over 100. There are OSHA limits. Read up on hearing loss...

If you only have powered speakers for both mains and monitors, you will NOT use the Speakon outputs on the back.

You will connect USING BALANCED TRS audio cables from the MAIN L and R jacks on the top of the unit to your powered main speakers and also connect the monitor speakers by TRS balanced connections to the MON1 and MON2 1/4 inch jacks on the top deck of the unit.

POWER ALL the speakers AND the mixer from the same receptacle or power source/conditioner.
This may mean running an extension cord alongside your audio snake from the stage. Failure to do do this can cause damage due to exceeding the common mode noise (ground bounce) of different power sources.

Leave the speaker slide switch in the Main L/R.

Adjust the rotary knobs for Mon1 and MON2 for each channel to proportion each to the monitor "mixes" which you will control overall with the MON1 and MON2 sliders.
You will use the MAIN slider to control the mains level.

To set the trims for each channel, push the PFL so only that LED illuminate red... then at max inout level for the channel, use the LED bar graph on the right side so it is just a little below the clip level where the top LED's of the bar graph do not illuminate.

Yeah, sounds like a bad connection. If you are handy, you can take the jack out yourself and determine if it is a loose wire or solder connection. If everything looks fine then you should squeeze the connections togather inside the jack itself. Sometimes it just gets pushed apart and does not hit around the male end secure enough.

just use the main left and right outputs of the behringer to run xlr (3 prong balanced) to 1/4 inch (looks like a big headphone plug) cables into the inputs of the crown amp. the mixer has the xlr outputs and the amp has 1/4 inch inputrs, sop the cables will have to reflect that on both ends. run the outputs of the amp (rca outputs, i believe, you may have to get a rca plug to 1/4 inch jack adapter, and then use a 1/4 inch speaker cable) to the inputs of the speakers, again, the amp has rca outputs and the speakers will likely have 1/4 inputs, so you will have to address that wil an adapter. have each speaker in its own channel.

Typically you have to unstring the guitar to get access to the insides.

Use a small miirror to view the insides. You may need to drag the jack out of the sound hole to resolder wires if they are broken. There should be three wires on the jack. One carries the audio, one the ground, and the third connects the battery when the instrument cable is plugged in.

After re-soldering the connections if needed, procure a piece of 1/4 inch wood dowel from your hardware store. Push the dowel through the hole where the jack goes and near the sound hole. Push the jack onto the dowel and then pull it back through the jack hole and pass the nut over the dowel and onto the jack threads and tighten. The extract the dowel rod from the jack.

It is near impossible to reach clear into the guitar body to put the jack back in without the dowel rod unless you have very tiny arms.

It sounds like the grounding/earth wire is off the output socket as you already seem to believe yourself. Depending on the model either take off the back control cover panel or the scratchplate/pickguard and look for a loose wire running from the back of one of the pot cases and connect this back onto the screen connection of the jack socket.