Domestic power supplies

if the backup bulbs are good then check the neutral switch as this is where the reverse switch is, its part of the neutral switch. it may have stopped working and need replacing. you will be replacing the neutral switch. if you have power out of the switch then check for power and ground at the light socket as there could be a bad wire or connection.

The switch is probably a single pole switch and just switches the incoming live to the output, in your case the live from the RCD to the outgoing live of the heater. The 2 earths can be connected together and 2 neutrals. When you mention the RCD external socket I presume the cable to the outhouse is fitted with a three pin UK plug so check the rating of the I66 switch to ensure it can cope with the 13 amp current which can flow.
A double pole switch would be preferable. This provides total isolation and switches off the incoming live and neutral of the cable from the RCD. This is safer because if anyone ever rewired the plug at the RCD and mistakenly reversed live and neutral, a correctly wired single pole switch in the outhouse wouldn't switch off the live and this would be a hazardous situation, especially since the heater is in an outhouse which could be damp.

Also,
please note that all electrical wiring and installation details given on diydata.com is for information purposes only. From 1st January 2005, the Building Regulations Part P requires, in England and Wales, that only certified persons can carryout electrical installation work, or the work must be certified upon completion - see this page for more details.

Ring circuit

(1) The ordinary wall sockets around the house are normally connected to a ring circuit (also referred to as a ring main). The ring circuits of a domestic property supply the socket outlets and fixed appliances in the premises.

(2) The 'ring' is formed by the cable going from the consumer unit to the first socket, then on to the second socket and then the next socket etc. until the cable returns to the consumer unit. This means (in simple terms) that every socket on the ring circuit has two cable routes back to the supply. The cable of the ring circuit consists of a red (live) wire, a black (neutral) wire and a bare copper earth wire, all three being enclosed by an outer PVC sheathing. The cable used in domestic ring circuits is either 2.5sq mm or 4.0sq mm twin core and earth, these are rated (in free air) at 24amps or 32amps respectively.

(3) Each ring circuit is protected by a 32 amp fuse or trip fitted in the consumer unit. Modern installations incorporate a Residual Current Device (RCD) before the consumer unit which trips the whole system off if a fault is detected.

(4) In older houses the cabling for ring circuits (and other circuits) may be fed through the wall cavity with the cables coming into the back of the wall mounted socket. This is unacceptable in new premises and extensions. It is now considered that cables within the cavity may become wet causing the insulation of the cable to break down and moisture running down the cable into the socket. When rewiring older houses, new cables should not be run through the cavity, they should be run through new ducting embedded in the inner wall surfaces or under floorboards.

(5) A ring circuit is considered to be rated at 30amps (7200 watts). A ring may serve up to 100 m sq of floor area and, in theory, may have any number of sockets outlets or fused connection units connected to it. With each socket outlet is normally rated at 13 amps, as a 'rule of thumb', they are limited to under twenty outlets, it is unlikely that the variety of domestic appliances being used at any one time will exceed 30amps. The length of cable used in a ring circuit is limited to 50 metres for circuits protected by an MCB. The sockets are normally mounted flush with the wall although surface mounted boxes are often easier to fit when sockets are added to the circuit. .

(6) High power electrical appliances (such as cookers, showers etc.) should not be connected to a ring main even if they use less current that the 30 amp rating of the ring circuit. Connection of such appliances will reduce the number of other appliances that can be use simultaneously and will lead to nuisance trips at the consumer unit.

(7) It is advisable to have at least two ring circuit in all premises, in multi floor houses, one for each floor. The kitchen may have a large number of electrical appliances so a separate ring circuit for the kitchen may also worthwhile, this has the added benefit that a freezer will not be affected if there is a fault elsewhere. A single ring circuit should serve a floor area no greater than 100sq m (or 120sq yd).

(8) In the UK, plugs used on a modern ring circuit have square pins and each plug is fitted with either 3 or 13 amp fuses. The correct fuse should always be fitted to suit the appliance, 3 amp fuses for appliances rated up to 750 watts, (lamps and clock radios etc.) - 13amp fuses for larger appliances up to 3000 watts.

(9) Spur extensions can be connected to the ring circuit. A spur is a socket connected into the ring by a single cable run so the socket does not have the full benefit of two cable routes to the consumer unit. Spurs are often used when a socket is added, it is easier to connect using a single cable rather than extending the ring circuit to include the new socket. A spur extension can be connected to the ring circuit provided that it supplies only 13 amp socket outlet (although that can be a double socket outlet) or one fixed appliance. Over the whole ring, the total number of spurs must not exceed the number of socket outlets directly on the main ring. No more than two separate spurs may be connected from each outlet on the ring.

Removal of the front of a wall socket will give an indication of the circuit connected to it:

A single cable connected to the terminals indicates that it is an existing spur.
Two cables may indicate either that it is on a main ring circuit OR that it is a spur with another spur connected to it. This is not a recognised configuration but possible if both spur sockets are single sockets.
Three or four cables normally indicate a socket on a main ring circuit with one or two spurs running from it.
If the wiring has been changed by a previous diy'er, it may be possible to identify any added cables and then deduce the original circuit.

Ring circuit fused outlet units

Where connection to a fixed appliance is required, a fused outlet unit may be fitted to the wall (rather than a plug socket) and connected into the ring main. These outlets require the correct fuse rating for the appliance and are connected to the appliance by a cable or flex. The outlet may be switched or unswitched and may be fitted with an indicator light to show when the supply is connected.

Where a flex is taken to a heater of any sort (e.g. night store heater) the flex must be of a special 'high temperature' type suitable for the elevated temperatures encountered. Use of ordinary flex will result in the insulation breaking down causing the flex to become dangerous.

A clock outlet is a similar type of unit, but with a small fuse fitted in a special plug connected to the flex. The plug may be retained in the socket by a screw or knurled thumbscrew. Though called a clock outlet, they are also suitable for other small low current appliances such as extractor fan units, door bells.



High Power circuits.

Within domestic premises, there may be a number of high wattage appliances, the most common being an electric cooker, immersion heater and electric shower. Each of these appliances should be connected to the consumer unit using a dedicated fuse/trip and cable run. The installation instructions for the appliance should detail the wattage of the appliance (which will also normally be shown somewhere on the appliance), the amperage of the fuse/trip and the size of cable required. Any switches on these circuits must also be of a suitable current rating. Source(s): http://www.diydata.com/planning/ring_mai...

Hi!!
What controls the Back Up Lights is the Neutral Safety Switch/Back Up Switch, located on the transmission shifter (engine compartment). Check for 12v+ coming in from the fuse box to the Neutral Safety Switch, if OK, check for 12v+ out of the wire going to the back up lights when in Reverse, if no power, replace switch, if there is power, check wiring from switch to back up lights.
Good Luck!! A HELPFUL - 4 THUMBS - rating for this solution would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for using FixYa.

Wiring a new sub-panel to an isolation transformer is one method of wiring for balanced power. With a balanced power system, the power sent to each "hot" bus of the power panel is 50 percent per bus. This means that the total power of the system is split evenly between each side of the panel. Balanced power systems have the advantage of reduced noise generation. This characteristic makes this type of system great for audio.
1.Shut off the power feeding the isolation mains transformer at the main power panel. Use the documentation supplied with the isolation transformer to locate the center-tap wire on the secondary side of the transformer. Connect that wire to the sub-panel's ground bus bar.
2.Route the remaining two wires from the secondary side of the isolation transformer into the sub-panel. Loosen the two "hot" wire main bus screws in the top center section of the sub-panel. Strip 1/2-inch of insulation off of the two wires.
3.Insert each wire separately into each of the wire screw terminals.Tighten the screws to hold the wire in place. Do not over-tighten these screws. If there is a neutral wire, connect it to the neutral common bar. Once these screws are tight, close the sub-panel.

Usually the two wires that go to the wall switch are used to break the load, (switch the power (COMMON) OFF and ON to the fan).

The other wires in the ceiling box are the supply wires.

You need to look at the wires and find the pair that are LIVE, the one set that has live power on the BLACK wire. This set of wires are the SUPPLY wires. You can use a voltage detector or a neon bulb tester to determine which wires are LIVE. Once you do that, you should turn off the breaker until you have finished the installation.

Connect with a wire nut, the Ceiling (SUPPLY) box WHITE (neutral) wire to the fan's WHITE wire.

Connect with a wire nut, the BLACK (common) SUPPLY wire in the outlet box, to the WHITE wire going to the switch box,

Now connect the the BLACK wire coming from the switch box to the Fan's black wire.

Be sure to connect the bare copper ground wires together with teh Green (or bare) wire from the fan, with a wire nut.

This completes the wiring of the circuit and the fan should go ON and OFF with the wall switch. Now turn on the breaker and check for proper operation.

You can change the speed of the fan with the pull chain on the fan, if this is a standard ceiling fan.

Hope you find this information Very Helpful and best regards!

Hi,

this depends on where you live UK/USA et,c or other.
It is best to search the manufacturers site, to find installation codes/colours.
i.e USA use a lot Of Black and white. UK uses Red/Black Green/yellow.
And on houses that are rewired to 17th edition electrics ( UK ) the colours have now changed on mains twin and earth household Wiring. What Used to Be Red ( Live ) Is Now Brown. Black ( Nuetral ) Is now Blue. green/yellow is earth.

*** Important Note:- you should have several reds in a ceiling junction box or light fitting, these are circuit wires. ( Live From Light to next light ) The same as with Black ( Nuetral )
There will usually be 1 switch wire/Cable. this feeds a live from the switch, to the live power up to the light. many homes use a twin core and earth, from the light switch to the fitting. this may be black ( if a black/red ) has been used. *** Do not connect a black Switch wire with the remaining neutrals***
This will blow a fuse or trip a breaker.

Your solution:- connect the black neutral To the Black neutral cables ( more Than 1 at the ceiling Rose/fitting ) if there is a green/yellow or green ( this will be earth ) You may have 2 remaining Colours Possibly red and Blue or other. The Red Should be the switched Live. ( the single cable Red/Black with red tape around It ) This will be the switched Live. The remaining cable would probably be connected to the Bunch of Reds ( Constant Live ) As ceiling fans require a constant and switched live ( if the fan has lighting )

If in any doubt, consult a qualified or competant Electrician. *****And always remove or isolate the mains supply before attempting any installation*****. After the wiring is complete replace the fuse or switch on the breaker, to test your installation.

This information, is supplied by a fully competant electrician.

Thankyou for using fixya.

Mike @ Compurepair.

If there is no power at socket, check for a blown fuse, if fuse is good still check it for power, you can check the b/u switch on the trani, I think your is part of the neutral safety switch,do a wiggle check( might be able to see a loose connection) do it with key on wheels chocked and/or E-brake applied,and the trani in reverse. the truck does not have to be running. Just the key in the run position. and you can check for continuity(good ground) at socket. Good luck.

Check power is at these Points.

1. Mains filter at top right - Check for live and Neutral Presence.
2. ON/OFF Switch - Check for Power in and Out when switched on.
3. Door Lock - Check for Power down 1 wire and when Locked, Power ( Live ) present in 2 wires. The third wire is the Neutral for the door locking circuit. Check this Neutral is OK. - Let me know.