Homelite model ut80522e cam/crankshaft timing?

Not a do-it-yourself job, unless you got some time and are pretty confident.

You'll have to dismount the engine from the motor mount on the passenger side. (17mm bolts and nuts)

You'll have to move the power steering lines out of your way.

Remove the crankshaft pulley. (21mm or 22mm Bolt, and some 10mm bolts)

Remove the timing covers (10mm bolts)

Place the engine on TDC for cylinder 1. There are timing marks on the crank you can use. (make sure the ones on the camshafts are on the timing marks as well

Remove the timing belt tensioner

Remove the timing belt

Remove the metal blade and crankshaft position sensor from next to the crankshaft (10mm bolts for the sensor, metal blade just slides over the crankshaft) Replace both of them.

Now, make sure you index the crank pulley correctly, make sure you get the cams and the crank on the timing marks before you put the belt back on. Make sure you rotate the engine by hand for 2 turns of the crank shaft and ensure that the crank and the cams are still on the timing marks.

Put it all back together.

That is a very quick overview of the highlights of the job.

Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands. Remove the wheel on the passenger side of the vehicle using the drive ratchet and a socket. Remove the passenger side splash shield, using the drive ratchet and a 10mm socket. 2 Remove the accessory belt(s), using a wrench to loosen the tension. Unscrew the bolt from the crankshaft pulley, using the drive ratchet and a socket. Slide the crankshaft pulley and the timing belt guide washer directly behind it off the crankshaft.3 Remove all the 10mm bolts in the top and bottom timing belt covers. Remove the covers. The drive ratchet and a 10mm socket works well for this. 4 Push the crankshaft pulley on the crankshaft just enough to engage the keyway. Turn the crankshaft pulley clockwise until the timing mark on the top camshaft sprocket, which is marked with a line on the sprocket with a number 1 next to it, is lined up with the pointer straight up on top of the cover to the rear of the sprocket. Once the top mark is lined up, the crankshaft pulley's semi-circle mark should be lined up with the triangular pointer on the block. The marks on the crankshaft pulley should be straight up and the keyway should also be straight up. Remove the crankshaft pulley. 5 Loosen the tensioner bolt with a wrench, pull the tensioner to the left, away from the belt and loosely tighten the bolt to hold it in place. Remove the timing belt. 6 Install the timing belt counter-clockwise starting at the crankshaft pulley and move upward over the outside the water pump, on the inside the guide pulley and over the top of the camshaft, ending on the inside the tensioner. The main thing when installing a timing belt is to ensure the belt is as tight as possible opposite the tensioner. Get the belt tight between the crank sprocket and the cam sprocket so the tensioner can take out all the slack without moving the timing marks.7 Loosen the tensioner bolt and allow the tensioner to apply pressure to the belt. Use your hand to apply a slight pressure to the tensioner toward the belt and tighten the tensioner bolt. Check the belt tension to ensure it is not too tight or too loose. Check the timing marks again to ensure they still align. If the timing marks are not lined up, loosen the tensioner, move it back and repeat the last procedure over again until the belt is tensioned properly with no misalignment of the timing marks. 8 Install the crankshaft pulley temporarily and turn the pulley two complete revolutions, once again aligning the mark on the crankshaft pulley. Ensure the timing mark is still lined up perfectly on the camshaft sprocket. Reinstall the remaining parts in reverse order of removal

To align both sets of timing marks, turn engine crankshaft to the right with belt on cam and crank. Once you have done this the crankshaft alignment mark (on front of crankshaft gear) will line up with mark to the rear of gear on engine block.The two cam gear timing marks should be alines across from one another. The right cam gear is the intake side and the left side is the exhaust side. After removing the belt turn the exhaust cam down 1/2 notch. Timing mark on exhaust 1/2 notch down from the intake side. Install new belt and recheck everything to make sure it's all correct. Hope this will help you.

Not sure what state of "togetherness" your motor is in but, there is an inspection bolt hole on the front side of the magneto cover. Take this bolt out together with the sparkplug and remove cylinder head cover. Turn engine till a timing mark appears in the centre of the inspection hole. The piston/crank will be at TDC (top dead centre) if magneto rotor is keyed on correctly. Do not set anything on engine other than at TDC. Magneto is tightened on to crankchaft end with a locating key, this covers your spark timing.
Valve timing is achieved via the cams, place camshafts into cups at TDC (all valves will be shut) and timing marks on camshaft sprockets will line up with line on cam cup journals in the head. Camchain is fed on from opposite side as chain tensioner to ensure timing remains when tensioned. Let me know if you are "all parts on the bench" or contemplating a stripdown, I can then clarify all necessary steps.
Cheers.

Flats of all four cams on the ends opposite gears need to be parallel to top of head where cam cover bolts on. Dark links on transmission side of cam gears should line up with pins at 12:00 positions on cams. Dark links on pulley side of gears should line up with marks on intake gears. Dark link on balancer shaft gear lines up with tooth at 5:00 position. Dark link on crankshaft gear lines up at 4:00 position.

Here is a diagram of the pulley side marks.



Here is what the marks look like on the tranmission side of the gears on the front head:






Find more pix on the head gasket page of 99intrigue.shutterfly.com

Timing belt removed, static timing was not set before removing timing belt.

[Set Static Timing:
No.1 piston is brought up to TDC before removing timing belt.

Cam gear has a punchmark on face of gear, and this mark aligns with one single tooth. There is a matching punchmark on the Timing Belt Rear Upper Cover.

Facing the cam gear, the mark is to the upper right. There is an 'egg shape' of the timing belt upper rear cover, in this spot. This punchmark is in that 'egg shape', and is close to a bolt hole. The cam gear mark lines up with the Timing Belt Rear Upper Cover, mark.

The crankshaft gear has a punchmark on the face. It lines up with one single tooth. There is a corresponding punchmark on the lower right side. An alignment mark)

Should be a round punchmark on the face of the crankshaft gear. It lines up with a single tooth. Wipe the gear clean, use a little carb cleaner. (NO flames, or sparks nearby, well ventilated area)

Barring you cannot find the crankshaft mark, find the camshaft alignment marks, make sure they are aligned with the alignment, (Punchmark), on the Timing Upper Rear Cover.

Count the teeth in the timing belt. There should be 133 teeth on the belt.

There is 43 teeth in-between the timing mark of the camshaft, and the timing mark on the crankshaft.

(43 teeth in-between the Right Side Camshaft mark to crankshaft mark, 43 teeth in-between the Left Side Camshaft mark to crankshaft mark)

There should be 40 teeth in-between the two cam gears.

Put the piston at TDC (Top Dead Center) by lining up the timing marks on the flywheel and stator. Put the cylinder head back together with the cam installed so the high points of the cam lobes are pointing kind of downward. Pull the cam chain taught on the front side of the engine. Put the chain on the cam gear such that, when bolted to the cam, the index mark or marks are in the proper position.

The proper position depends on what markings are on the cam. Some bikes have a single mark; an arrow, a straight line or an "O". The mark should line up with the center-line of the crankshaft. If the cam has two marks opposite each other, the lines should be parallel with the gasket surface. You will need to rotate the unbolted cam left or right just a bit in order to match up the bolt holes to the gear holes.

Can I get a “very helpful” rating on this answer?

You didn't say whether you had a V6 engine or a 4cyl. Here is the procedure for a V6, 3.2L for 1998 - at least 2002.

It sounds like he moved the cam shaft independently of the crankshaft or other camshaft so you will need to do all these procedures:

1. Turn the crankshaft until the mark on the spocket is lined up with the mark on the oil pump housing (the mark is on the driver's side at 90 degrees to the sprocket itself).

2. Back off the crankshaft counterclockwise 1/8 turn to ensure the pistons aren't at top dead center. This gives the valves room to move without hitting the piston.

3. Turn the passenger's side camshaft until it "jumps" into place with the alignment mark on the camshaft pully is pretty close to being lined up with the mark on the engine head.

4. Turn the driver's side camshaft until it "jumps" into place this should be perfectly lined up. If you turned the crankshaft 10 full rotations and it still doesn't line up at any rotation then choose the closest point with the mark off by 1/8 to 1/4 turn off from the mark. Then line it up by hand.

5. The idler pulleys and tensioner pulleys should be installed on the engine but the tenioner pulley adjuster (it is a little cylinder with a rod coming out of it that is held in place by 2 bolts) should be removed.

6. Place the new belt on the crankshaft first. Be sure the arrows on the belt point in a clockwise direction. If you have a belt with lines and dots then the lines will line up with all markings that you have lined up together on the camshafts. The dots should line up at the 270 degree point on the crankshaft (opposite of the lines and the markings). There should be a factory blue dot on the crankshaft where the belt dots should line up.

7. Loop the belt around the tensioner pulley, around the passenger's side cam, under the waterpump, around the driver's side cam, and finally around the idler pulley. Check all alignments.

8. Put the tesioner adjuster in a vise and squeeze it together until you can place a small drill bit or allen wrench through the holes to keep it compressed.

9. If all lines are aligned and the play is removed from the driver's side then this step should be easy. Hold the tensioner pully against the belt and install the tensioner adjuster. Then pull the dril bit or allen wrench to release the adjuster. Sometimes this step can be a bit tricky and you may need some moving of the belt to allow enough play to get the adjuster in place. This may move the passenger's side alignment. If so, you will need to try it again. I find that if you move passenger's side alignment mark clockwise by one tooth of the sprocket, then when you go to put the tensioner in place it lines up. You may find other tricks to overcome this challenge. Remove to remove the drill bit or allen wrench.

10. Once you think you have everything lined up. Use a wrench to turn the crankshaft sprocket 2 full turns. Listen closely and feel for any hard resistance as you do this to determine if the pistons are hitting the valves. If you believe they are hitting each other then repeat the adjustment procedure. Not doing this can ruin the valves or more.

11. If everything seems OK you can try turning the engine over with the ignition. If it doesn't start, don't keep trying. Assume you need to perform the steps again and realign everything.

I hope this helps.

well not sure exactly why it wont line up use something to turn the crank and cam to appropiate position start sliding crank gear until cam gear is touching then start to push both at same time make sure your crank key and cam pin are bothin place On many OHV pushrod engines, the crankshaft sprocket is installed on the crankshaft nose and the crankshaft is rotated to position piston #1 at TDC. At this point, a mark stamped onto the crankshaft sprocket is pointing directly upward (toward the camshaft).
The camshaft sprocket is then temporarily bolted to the cam and used to rotate the cam until a mark stamped on the cam sprocket is pointing directly downward (toward the crankshaft). The sprocket is then removed from the cam (without allowing the cam to rotate).
The timing chain is looped over the cam gear, the mark on the cam gear is positioned directly downward, and the chain is looped around the crankshaft sprocket. When the cam sprocket is attached to the cam, the timing marks on the crank and cam sprockets should be pointing toward one another.

You didn't say whether you had a V6 engine or a 4cyl. Here is the procedure for a V6.

It sounds like he moved the cam shaft independently of the crankshaft or other camshaft so you will need to do all these procedures:

1. Turn the crankshaft until the mark on the spocket is lined up with the mark on the oil pump housing (the mark is on the driver's side at 90 degrees to the sprocket itself).

2. Back off the crankshaft counterclockwise 1/8 turn to ensure the pistons aren't at top dead center. This gives the valves room to move without hitting the piston.

3. Turn the passenger's side camshaft until it "jumps" into place with the alignment mark on the camshaft pully is pretty close to being lined up with the mark on the engine head.

4. Turn the driver's side camshaft until it "jumps" into place but this won't be perfectly lined up with the mark but will be about an 1/8 turn off from the mark. Then line it up by hand.

5. The idler pulleys and tensioner pulleys should be installed on the engine but the tenioner pulley adjuster (it is a little cylinder with a rod coming out of it that is held in place by 2 bolts) should be removed.

6. Place the new belt on the crankshaft first. Be sure the arrows on the belt point in a clockwise direction. If you have a belt with lines and dots then the lines will line up with all markings that you have lined up together. The dots should line up at the 270 degree point on the crankshaft (opposite of the lines and the markings).

7. Loop the belt around the tensioner pulley, around the passenger's side cam, under the waterpump, around the driver's side cam, and finally around the idler pulley. Check all alignments.

8. Put the tesioner adjuster in a vise and squeeze it together until you can place a small drill bit or allen wrench through the holes to keep it compressed.

9. This is the tricky part. You will need to install the tensioner adjuster and that will require some moving of the belt to allow enough play to get the adjuster in place. This may move the passenger's side alignment. If so, you will need to try it again. I find that if you move passenger's side alignment mark clockwise by one tooth of the sprocket, then when you go to put the tensioner in place it lines up. You may find other tricks to overcome this challenge.

10. Once you think you have everything lined up. Use a wrench to turn the crankshaft sprocket 2 full turns. Listen closely and feel for any hard resistance as you do this to determine if the pistons are hitting the valves. If you believe they are hitting each other thenrepeat the adjustment procedure. Not doing this can ruin the valves or more.

11. If everything seems OK. remove the drill bit or allen wrench from the tension adjuster. Perform step 10 again for one final check.

I hope this helps.