The frame which holds in the engine and wheels has rusted out due to the air conditioning leaking fluid on it. Why was this design problem not communicated to Acura owners. It's very dangerous.

1. Do NOT start the engine until the system is fully bled, doing so may cause damage to the power steering components. Pump internals are metal to metal so any air in the system can cause metal to metal contact and resulting damage.
2. Raise the front wheels off the ground
3. Turn the steering wheel fully to the RIGHT
4. Fill the reservoir to the "full cold" level & leave the cap off. Use only XADO CHF or Honda PSF-S fluid. Do NOT use automatic transmission fluid as transmission fluid does not contain the same friction inhibitors/additives and tends to breakdown and overheat. The use of transmission fluid will VOID the warranty
5. With an assistant checking the fluid level, turn the steering wheel slowly and smoothly lock to lock until the level drops in the reservoir. If the fluid level does not drop no fluid has moved through the system, this indicates an air bubble in the reservoir or pump. Until this bubble passes no fluid will circulate through the system. ? On systems with coolers you may need to cycle in excess of 40 times ? Do NOT turn the steering wheel fast as this will cause the fluid to overflow the reservoir, trapped air may cause the fluid to overflow. Thoroughly clean any spilled fluid so you can check later for any leaks
6. Check the fluid constantly to ensure proper level and that no bubbles exist. ? If you see any signs of bubbles recheck all hose connections then repeat the steps above. ? The fluid level should be steady
7. Disable the engine from starting ? Crank the engine several revolutions, if the fluid level drops there is compressed air trapped in the system, repeat the above steps until the fluid level remains stable. ? If the fluid foams while cranking wait at least 10 minutes or more until dispersed air has time to accumulate and purge through the reservoir.
8. Continue to repeat the steps above until the fluid level remains constant and no air bubbles are visible.
9. Now start the engine and check that the fluid remains at level and stable
10. Reinstall the reservoir cap
11. Return wheels to centre and lower wheels to the ground
12. Run the engine for two minutes and turn steering wheel in both directions
13. Do NOT hold the steering wheel against the stops
14. Verify the following conditions ? The steering is smooth ? Noiseless operation ? Proper fluid level ? No leaks ? Proper fluid condition ? No bubbles, foaming or fluid discolouration
15. If all of the above conditions are satisfied the bleeding procedure is complete
16. If any problem exists then turn off the engine and see special conditions below Special Conditions If you experience any of the conditions listed below then there is still air in the system. ? Foam or bubbles in the fluid ? Power steering fluid should not rise in the reservoir when the engine is turned off, if this occurs there is air trapped in the system ? Be aware of any periodic bubbles that could indicate a loose connection, leaky o-ring or a bad flare seat in either the pressure or return hose ? Discoloured fluid (milky, opaque or light tan colour) If you have any questions regarding this procedure please contact us before you install the replacement power steering pump that you have purchased from us, we will be happy to help you.

your brake line is rusted and has a pin hole letting the fluid out. You will need to have the line replaced.

What year Dakota? Drum Brakes?

Lock up when?

If you use the parking brake,then the cables
have to be replaced because of rust.

With proper brake maintenance once a year, there is no
reason to say they lock up while driving

Section 11-00: Steering System-Service 1999 Taurus, Sable Workshop Manual SERVICE PROCEDURES Purging Power Steering System of Air NOTE: If the air is not purged from the power steering system correctly, a second customer concern or pump failure could result. This condition can only occur on pre-delivery vehicles with evidence of aerated fluid or vehicles that have had steering component repair.

A whine noise heard from the power steering pump may be caused by air in the system. The following procedure must be performed whenever any of the following are performed:

• All power steering noise complaints with evidence of aerated fluid on pre-delivery vehicles only, prior to any component repair.
• After any power steering system component (for example, gear or hose) has been replaced and the noise is heard.

Fluid Level Top-Off Procedure

1. Check and fill pump reservoir to dipstick full cold or remote reservoir center mark.
   

1. Disable ignition by removing Fuse 10 in the fuse junction panel.
   

1. Crank engine 30 seconds, check fluid level and add if required.
   

1. NOTE: Do not hold steering wheel on stops.
   
   Crank engine 30 seconds while cycling the steering wheel lock to lock.
   

1. Check fluid level and add fluid if required.
   

Air Purge with Vacuum External Source Procedure - 3.0L (2V) Engine, Flex Fuel and 3.4L SHO Engine

1. Tightly insert the rubber stopper of the air evacuator assembly into pump reservoir.
   

1. Reinstall Fuse 10 used to disable ignition and start vehicle.
   

1. Apply 20-25 in-Hg (85-88 kPa) maximum vacuum for minimum of three minutes at idle; maintain maximum vacuum with vacuum source.
   

1. Release vacuum and remove vacuum source.
   

1. Add fluid to full warm or reservoir center mark.
   

1. Reinstall vacuum source and apply 20-25 in-Hg (85-88 kPa) vacuum.
   

1. NOTE: Do not hold steering wheel on stops.
   
   Cycle steering wheel from lock to lock every 30 seconds for approximately 5 minutes.
   

1. Shut engine off, release vacuum and remove vacuum source.
   

1. Add Motorcraft MERCON Multi-Purpose (ATF) Transmission Fluid if necessary and install dipstick or reservoir cap.
   

1. NOTE: Do not hold steering wheel on stops.
   
   Start engine and cycle steering wheel from lock to lock every 30 seconds for approximately 5 minutes.
   

1. Check for oil leaks at all connections.
   

1. In severe cases it may be necessary to repeat air purge with vacuum source procedure.
   

Air Purge with Vacuum External Source Procedure - 3.0L (2V) and 3.0L (4V)

1. Add Motorcraft MERCON® Multi-purpose (ATF) Transmission Fluid XT-2-QDX or MERCON® equivalent to approximately 2.5 cm (1 in) (make a mark) above the top of the supply line.
   

1. Tightly insert the rubber stopper of the air evacuator assembly into the pump reservoir.
   

1. Apply 85-88 kPa (20-25 in-Hg) maximum vacuum for a minimum of three minutes.
   

1. Add Motorcraft MERCON® Multi-purpose (ATF) Transmission Fluid XT-2-QDX or MERCON® equivalent until the level is at the marked point.
   

1. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 until the fluid level stabilizes.
   

1. Check reservoir level and add Motorcraft MERCON® Multi-purpose (ATF) Transmission Fluid XT-2-QDX or MERCON® equivalent to the FULL WARM (MAX) mark.
   

1. Install the number 10 fuse in the fuse junction panel. Start the engine.
   

1. NOTE: The front wheels must be off the floor during lock-to-lock rotation of the steering wheel.
   
   NOTE: Do not hold the steering wheel on stops.
   
   Reinstall the vacuum source and apply 85-88 kPa (20-25 in-Hg) maximum vacuum and cycle the steering wheel from lock-to-lock every thirty seconds for a minimum of 5 minutes.
   

1. Shut the engine off, release the vacuum and remove the vacuum source.
   

1. Add Motorcraft MERCON® Multi-purpose (ATF) Transmission Fluid XT-2-QDX or MERCON® equivalent to the FULL WARM (MAX) level. Install the dipstick or reservoir cap.
   

1. NOTE: Do not hold the steering wheel on stops.
   
   NOTE: In severe cases, it may be necessary to repeat air purge with vacuum source procedure.
   
   Start the engine and cycle the steering wheel from lock-to-lock every thirty seconds for approximately five minutes.
   

1. Lower the vehicle front end.
   

1. Check for oil leaks at all connections.
   

Your mater cylinder is out.

-Replace oxygen sensor -Change ATF (Automatic transmission fluid) -Change oil -Replace Differential oil -A road test to check brakes, handling etc -Check transmission for leaks -Check axles for leaks -Check for leaks at the half shaft ( the flexible boot) -Visual of fuel tank, lines, and connectors for leaks -Examine exhaust visually -Check power steering. Check fluid levels add if needed -Check brakes, measure pad thickness and record, clean contact points, and lube wheel centering hubs -Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage and joint disc -Check parking brake actuation. Adjust if necessary -Inspect entire body according to terms of rust perforation limited warranty -Read out diagnostic system -Check engine cooling system, hoses and connectors for leaks -Check air conditioner operation -Replace microfilters -Check battery state-of-charge, and charge if required -Check lighting system all lights right down to the one in the glove box -Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination -Check wipers and washer system(s); wiper blades, washer jet positions. -Check condition and function of safety belts. -Recharge or replace batteries for remote controls in all vehicle master keys. -Check central locking/double lock. -Check operation of all latches -Check heater/air conditioner blower fan, rear window defogger -Visually examine air bag system check for torn covers, obvious damage, decals or decorations being placed on covers -Activate automatic roll-over protection system (if equipped) via diagnostic link -Replace intake air cleaner element

There you go I think that pretty much covers it hope this helps

well if you are losing fluid you definatly have a leak as brake fluid is not a "topping off fluid". you could have a leaking master cylinder either externaly which can be seen on brake booster or it can be leaking into the brake booster filling it with fluid. other than that you also may be leaking from your brake hoses(one hose at each wheel), calipers(front wheels and rear if all wheel disc brakes), wheel cylinders (if you have rear drum brakes), or metal brake lines due to rust and corrosoin (run from master cylinder to each brake hose). please rate 4 thumbs if helpful.

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

Here are your service intervals:

NOTE Besides Oil changes there are inspection intervals I & II

http://www.savagebmw.com/Service/content_service_Intervals.htm

Inspection interval I

BMW Inspection I (return to top) Undercarriage

• Change engine oil and filter while engine is at normal operation temperature.
• Check transmission for leaks.
• Check rear axle for leaks.
• Visually check fuel tank, lines, and connections for leaks.
• Check condition, position, and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks.
• Check power steering system for leaks.
• Check overall thickness of front and rear disc brake pads.
• Examine brake disc surfaces.
• Clean brake pad contact points in calipers.
• Grease wheel center hubs.
• Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage, and joint disc.
• Check front control arm bushing for wear.
• Check brake and clutch system connectors and lines for leaks, damage, and incorrect positioning.
• Check for free movement of the parking brake cables. Adjust parking brake if necessary.
• Check all tire pressures (including spare). Correct if necessary.
• Check condition of tires (outer surfaces (left/right)), tread wear and pattern; In case of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if required.

Engine Compartment

• Read out diagnostic system
• Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks.
• Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary.
• Check level of brake and clutch fluid in reservoir; add fluid if required.
• Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct if necessary.
• Check air conditioner for operation.
• Reset Service Indicator.

Body/Electrical Equipment

• Check battery electrolyte level and add distilled water if required.
• Perform batter load test.
• Check lighting system, i.e. headlights, foglights, parking, backup, license plate, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated makeup mirrors, luggage compartment lights.
• Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination.
• Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.
• Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, headlight dimmer/flasher switch.
• Check wiper and washer system(s); wiper blades, washer jet positions.
• Check condition and function of safety belts.
• Oil hood, trunk/tailgate, and door hinges.
• Grease hood, trunk/tailgate and door latches. Check operation of all latches.
• Check central locking/double lock.
• Replace microfilter or Acc. Cabin Filter.
• Check heater/air conditioner blower, rear window defogger.
• Check rear view mirrors
• Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn cover, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations, or accessories.

Final Inspection

• Road test with check of brakes, suspension, steering, clutch/manual transmission or automatic transmission

Inspection interval II
BMW Inspection II (return to top) Undercarriage

• Change engine oil and filter while engine is at normal operation temperature.
• Check transmission for leaks.
• Check rear axle for leaks.
• Visually check fuel tank, lines, and connections for leaks.
• Check condition, position, and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks.
• Check power steering system for leaks.
• Check overall thickness of front and rear disc brake pads.
• Examine brake disc surfaces.
• Clean brake pad contact points in calipers.
• Grease wheel center hubs.
• Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage, and joint disc.
• Check front control arm bushing for wear.
• Check brake and clutch system connectors and lines for leaks, damage, and incorrect positioning.
• Check for free movement of the parking brake cables. Adjust parking brake if necessary.
• Check all tire pressures (including spare). Correct if necessary.
• Check condition of tires (outer surfaces (left/right)), tread wear and pattern; In case of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if required.
• Check thickness of parking brake linings.
• Half-shafts; check for leaks at flexible boots.
• Inspect entire body according to terms of rust prevention limited warranty.

Engine Compartment

• Read out diagnostic system
• Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks.
• Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary.
• Check level of brake and clutch fluid in reservoir; add fluid if required.
• Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct if necessary.
• Check air conditioner for operation.
• Reset Service Indicator.
• Replace spark plugs (as applicable by year and model)
• Replace intake air cleaner element.

Body/Electrical Equipment

• Check battery electrolyte level and add distilled water if required.
• Perform batter load test.
• Check lighting system, i.e. headlights, foglights, parking, backup, license plate, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated makeup mirrors, luggage compartment lights.
• Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination.
• Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.
• Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, headlight dimmer/flasher switch.
• Check wiper and washer system(s); wiper blades, washer jet positions.
• Check condition and function of safety belts.
• Oil hood, trunk/tailgate, and door hinges.
• Grease hood, trunk/tailgate and door latches. Check operation of all latches.
• Check central locking/double lock.
• Replace microfilter or Acc Cabin Filter.
• Check heater/air conditioner blower, rear window defogger.
• Check rear view mirrors
• Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn cover, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations, or accessories.

Final Inspection

• Road test with check of brakes, suspension, steering, clutch/manual transmission or automatic transmission

Service indicator lights if installed:

http://www.savagebmw.com/Service/content_service_IntervalsLED.htm

That should just about cover the works other than failures.

Thanks for using FixYa!

Kelly

1st need to know where the leak is? Is it a rusted line, or? To bleed after repairing leak, do the following: Have a helper start the Jeep, go to the wheel the greatest distance from the master cylinder, have helper pump brake pedal 3 times, pushing down about 1/2 way on pedal each time. 3rd time, he should hold pedal at 1/2 way down point while you open bleeder to let air/fluid out. As flow is about to stop, close bleeder. Repeat til all air removed. Check master cyl and refill often, because if you draw in air, you have to start all over. Go to the next wheel that's now the greatest distance from master cyl, repeat, til you get to wheel closest to master cyl. Done!!

The green bar is the service indicator bar. The bar shoulld decrease every 1500/2000 km to indicate still how far you can drive before the next service. It will evetually change to yellow and then red. This means the service is overdue. When my 1995 318 went for a service the dealer reset the indicators to full green bars. A week later the bar was in the red. Some computers are prone to this fault due to low ore loss of battery power. Just make sure the physical km of your inspection is still maintained. BMW SERVICE RESET Take a small wire, paperclip, or elect wire and bend like a horseshoe. No light or equipment necessary Open the diagnostic data port, the one were the little pacman centre is located. Turn the ignition to position 2, don?t start. Connect pin7 always first and then pin 19. Hold for 4 seconds. Remove wire and settings will be reset. Warning if you hold the wire longer than 10 seconds you may reset inspection intervals 1 and 2. I?ve done this twice and it definitely work on my E36