My dad has an old rotozip rev01. we can't remove the blade because the flange nut was overtighten. is there a way to remove the nut?

https://www.mmtoolparts.com/store/rotozip-parts

Hi Rita,looked very hard and found this site,here's the main site too. http://www.rotozip.com/en-us/support/Documents/2610008432%2008-10%20RFS1000.pdf If this isn't your saw,try this link. http://www.rotozip.com/en-us/support/Pages/Manuals.aspx

Most times when I need to change a blade on my 7 1/4" saw I simply grab the blade on the front side, below the saw's support table, with a pair of channel lock pliers and then use the box end wrench on the blade nut, pushing down from the back side of the saw blade. That should loosen the nut so you can take it out with your fingers. The reverse of this procedure should tighten the nut on a new blade.
I'm not real familiar with the Fury saw, but if it requires saw blades with the diamond shaped cut-out in the center, most of the older blades had a knockout that will fit the diamond shape it would need.

Try a little PB blaster penetrating oil and a little more muscle not to much!! Nut might be a tad bit rusted in place. Good Luck....

depending on how old the saw is, the trigger may be shorted out. try and get into the trigger assembly to confirm.

Engine Fan REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Except 5.2L Engines VISCOUS DRIVE FAN

1. Remove the upper fan shroud bolts and lift the shroud from its lower securing tabs. Fig. 1: Remove the fan shroud
   
   
2. Remove the accessory drive belts.
3. Remove the fan flange-to-pulley mounting nuts. Fig. 2: Remove the fan flange-to-pulley mounting nuts . . .
   Fig. 3: . . . then remove the fan assembly
   
   
4. Remove the fan and viscous drive as an assembly.
5. Remove the fan blade-to-viscous drive bolts and separate the assembly. To install:
   
6. Position the fan on the viscous drive. Install the bolts and tighten them to 187 inch lbs. (24 Nm).
7. Position the mounting flange of the viscous drive assembly onto the pulley. Install the nuts and tighten them to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
8. Install the accessory drive belts.
9. Insert the shroud into its retaining tabs and install the upper bolts.

PINION FLANGE & OIL SEAL

CAUTION: Following procedure must be used to retain proper pinion bearing preload. Failure to follow procedure may result in premature axle assembly or component failure. Ensure pinion bearing preload is checked before disassembly, as previous pinion bearing preload will be used during reassembly.

Removal

1. Raise and support vehicle. Scribe reference mark on drive shaft-to-pinion flange on differential for reassembly reference. Remove bolts and "U" joint straps at pinion flange on differential.
Disconnect drive shaft from differential.
2. Remove rear wheels and brake drums to prevent any drag that may affect pinion bearing preload reading. Using INCH-lb. torque wrench, measure amount of force required to rotate pinion. This is pinion bearing preload. Record pinion bearing preload for reassembly reference.
3. Using Holder (6719), hold pinion flange. Remove pinion nut and washer. Scribe reference mark on pinion flange-to-pinion for reassembly reference. Using appropriate puller, remove pinion flange from pinion. Remove oil seal from axle housing.

Installation

1. Ensure oil seal surface in axle housing is clean. Coat lip of oil seal with gear lube. Install oil seal using appropriate seal installer. Drive oil seal into axle housing until oil seal installer contacts axle housing.
2. Install pinion flange on pinion with reference mark aligned. Using appropriate pinion flange installer, install pinion flange on pinion.

CAUTION: Washer must be installed on pinion with convex side of washer facing outward (away from pinion).

3. Install washer on pinion with convex side of washer facing outward (away from pinion). Install NEW pinion nut. Tighten pinion nut to 210 ft. lbs. (285 N.m). Rotate pinion several times to seat pinion bearings.

CAUTION: DO NOT overtighten or loosen then retighten pinion nut when adjusting pinion bearing preload. If pinion nut is overtightened, collapsible spacer on pinion must be replaced.

4. Rotate pinion using INCH-lb. torque wrench. Rotating torque should be equal to reading recorded in removal step 2) , plus 5 INCH lbs. (.056 N.m). If rotating torque is low, tighten pinion nut in small increments until proper rotating torque is obtained.
5. To install remaining components, reverse removal procedure using NEW "U" joint straps and bolts. Ensure all reference marks are aligned. Tighten bolts to specification. Check lubricant level and add if necessary.

Changing the oil pan gasket on a GMC Yukon XL is realtively simple, but does require removal of the exhaust pipe. You will need a new oil pan gasket and a new exhaust pipe flange gasket.
Put the car on ramps or jacks to access the undercarriage.
Remove the exhaust pipe by removing the 3 nuts holding the exhaust pipe flange to the exhaust manifold. These nuts often rust and prior application of penetrating oil may be required to remove them without damage. Once the pipe is unbolted, work the exhaust system loose from the hanging brackets. In most cases the entire system does not have to be removed since there is enough room to remove the pan with only the front hangers removed.
Drain the oil from the engine
Remove the 10 mm bolts holding the pan to the block.
Remove the old gasket material and scrape any remaining gasket from the block and pan.
Install the new gasket. Forma-Gasket or a similar product may be used in small quantities to "glue" the new gasket in place and prevent shifting while the pan is reattached to the block.
Reinsall the 10 mm bolts in a cross pattern to ensure the gasket is compressed evenly. Do not overtighten the bolts.
Replace the pipe to flange gasket between the exhaust pipe and the exhaust manifold with a new part.
Reattach the exhuast pipe to the hangers.
Install the 3 bolts connecting the pipe flange to the exhaust manifold.
Fill the engine with oil.

The Gerber Ultra Flush Back Outlet toilet, that uses 1.1 Gallons of water to flush?

Just like any common toilet. Install the tank to the bowl of the toilet, set the toilet, install the flush mechanism in the tank, attach the supply line.

1.MAKE SURE you put the two plastic U-shaped spacers on the back of the bowl!
2.Install the round rubber gasket in-between the tank and the bowl.
3.Set the tank down on the bowl. Make sure you have the round gaskets that go up under the bolt heads, then insert the two bolts into the tank, and through the bowl. NOT installing these will cause a leak!

Tighten these bolts down, until the nuts are JUST touching the tank. (There is a flat washer that goes under each nut)
DO NOT tighten one bolt all the way, then tighten the other bolt!!
These bolts MUST be tightened evenly. Tighten one turn on one bolt, then go to the other bolt.
DO NOT overtighten, or you will break the bowl, and/or the tank!

Make sure your toilet flange on the sewer pipe is in good repair, and clean, from the old beeswax ring. It can be messy, even using gloves. Use a flat painters stick to help remove the old wax ring. Scrape off into a old can. The wax thin residue on the floor and flange is fine.
Set the new wax ring in place, remove the plastic liner that comes with the ring. DO NOT leave that thin plastic liner! It's just to install that wax ring!

Install the bolts that hold the bowl to the floor, or reuse the old bolts if they are in good repair.
Tighten EVENLY, and don't overtighten! You can crack the bowl.

Now install the toilet mechanism in the tank.
Here is a 1 Page, Tank to Bowl Installation Guide from Gerber. It is a PDF file. Let it download ALL the way before looking at it.
http://gerberonline.com/fileLib/Toilets%20Ultra%20Flush%20IS.pdf

Should this direct link not work for you, here is the page it came from,
http://www.gerberonline.com/Catalog.aspx?categoryID=2204&itemID=3514

It's on the right side -> Installation Instruction (PDF)

Sounds like you lost a spacer that goes behind the first flange against the motor bearing, you could use a lock washer if you bend it flat.
Assemble:

spacer washer,
first flange,
blade,
second flange,
nut.

I think the first flange is rubbing the motor housing.