OK! The light on the fridge is activated by a switch on mounted somewhere the door hits to turn it off when the door is closed. How do you know the light is on if the door is closed. Check the switch and manually press it in. If the light doesn't go out the switch is bad and will have to be replaced.
The second issue of the Freezer working but the fridge part not working. The cooling coils are located behind the rear panel of the freezer. If the blower is blowing, you may have a chronic ice build up on the coils which limits air flow. The fridge is supplied its cold are through the vents at the back of the freezer along the bottom and cold air is blown into the fridge through these "Vents". Make sure nothing is obstructing them. Hope this helps.
Bill
SOURCE: SAMSUNG SIDE BY SIDE FRIDGE FREEZER
these appliances are a pain in the butt. fault with water dispensor is oprob that the water bottle at bottom of fridge is frozen. rise in temp is prob that defrost not taking place. not a diy unless you are experienced
SOURCE: Zanussi fridge freezer - fridge not working
The defrost cycle is not happening like it should, that's what causes the block of ice (and poor air flow). If you have all that defrosted look at the defrost bi-metal, it usually is a small round disk with a couple wires coming out of it and it's clipped on the coils. When it's cold enough, it passes electricity to the heat elements, when it gets hot enough it "opens" and kills power to the heat elements. If that is bad (swollen cracked or bloated) and not passing electricity to the elements that's the problem. Another item would be the defrost timer itself, if it doesn't work (no clock motor turning) then it will never go into defrost. And the last and usually least expected failure would be the heat element themselves not working
SOURCE: Temperature Control not working on LG fridge
It is an error code. The thermal fuse in the freezer section has gone. It has to be replaced. To get by in the short term, uplug the unit for 15 minutes, then plug it back in. It will run until it hits the defrost again (approx 5 hours) Part location is 401A and part number is 6615JB2005C. It is easy to change once you get the back cover off. Plug in part.
Sgt 48
SOURCE: Fridge and freezer stopped working.Power still on
The double dashes in your display are for one of two reasons. First situation would be would be "you turned the unit off". Press the up arrow on the feezer or fresh food control until a 4 is in each display. Second, if the control is locked out, the board has been scrambled or failed possibly from a power surge. Unplug unit for 30 seconds, and plug it back in and try to set control's for "4". If controls are still locked out, the board (12868513) needs to be replaced.
SOURCE: fridge broken, freezer is temp. that fridge should
Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main control board . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . ( If you notice your compressor is not running before unplugguing the blue plug , then jump wire1 to wire3 to see if the compressor runs . If so , then the main control board is bad . Plug the refrig back in to see if compressor starts with the jumper wire in place , ) . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater WR51X10101 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp and when to cycle off due to selected temperature .
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