How to wire a 5 hp cap start cap run

The cap can reach end of life with out any signs of physical damage on the exterior. The cap should be replaced, confirming the issue or non-issue of the cap condition. Your description of your problem is consistent with a cap failure.

the 30 uf side is for compressor run cap and 5 uf side is for fan motor. the other capacitor is for compressor start should be able to replace wire for wire.

Most common problem is old/defective distributor cap and ignition wires. Use a spray bottle with water and spray distributor cap and ignition wires with vehicle running. If they are causing your problem you will see arcing from the wires and the vehicle will stumble/stall when the cap/wires get wet

I cant really explain in detail every wire goes to X, However
All units regardless of design will have common requirements electrically .
As you know the power is 2 hot legs of 115v and a ground for the high voltage side, and 24 volts for the control circuits.The 230v will enter on the contactor,some use 1 leg, some both, some use the start winding as a crancase heater and will not be opened by the contactor.
That said the L1 and L2 legs will go to Common and Run terminals on the compressor, the run cap will be run and start, a start cap with a potential relay will be 5 to common, 2 to start and 1 to 1 side of the start cap the other side of the start cap is Run so the leg that goes to run will be run to run to run, run winding to run cap to r on start cap.
most use PTC THERMISTOR START ASSISTS SO THE OLDER RELAY i DESCRIBED MAY NOT BE THER HAVING A START ASSIST THAT SIMPLY WIRES IN PARALELL TO THE RUN CAPS TERMINALS R AND S or run and start.
The defrost is exactly how a domestic ****** works, time AND temp
initiated, time OR temp terminated, using a mechanical timer as Ranco E15 or a solid state board if newer, 1 leg of the condenser fan will be ran through the defrost timer as wll since defrost is just AC mode with the condesnser fan off, and the strips will temper the air so not to cool the home as the units defrosting . the sequence of operation and types of relays will matter, but at this type of communications I cant get much more detailed, without specifics, the low voltage is as any AC except with a Orange for reversing valve thast is energized in heat or cool mode, try O and if opposite put the wire on B on the stats subase.

The WEG 7.5 hp motors often blow the start capacitors. The box on top of the motor has 4 caps in it. 2 start and 2 run caps. Mark the cap wiring or make you a diagram to have at replacement time. Remove one or both of the caps. It is easier to remove two wires and pull the start caps out as a set. They are the black, large ones. I think they are 286 Micro farad caps. To get identical caps you may have to order from IR. If you can find a WEG motor shop they may have them. I usually go to grainger or my local motor shop to purchase. The ones here will be larger in size but can be fitted into the box on the motor. Also inspect the wiring in the box. I have found some wires with insulation gone. This may have caused your problem or a problem latter down the road.

I would not think it's the run cap. I would tighten the belt first.

Hi my name is Luke and I bought a Ingersoll-Rand 7.5 compressor and won’t start. I noticed it has a wire not connected on the capacitors it’s a blue wire that reads t5 v3 there’s a capacitor with open prong before two start caps and another capacitor after the two start caps , at least that’s what it reads on caps unless they have been wired wrong , being that I would think the start up caps should be wired first from powers supply box , want to know where it went Before I went trying to change capacitors and there’s 5 here’s a pic

The difference in the two pumps is that with a three wire pump the start and run capacitors are in the gray box. With a two wire pump the caps. are built into the motor. Because of this with a two wire pump you only need to run the 240v down the well to the pump. The yellow wire on the three wire pumps is the igh voltage wire that come from the start cap. I have used both pums but usually use the two wire because they are easier to hookup and the wire is cheaper because you only need to run three wires. (2 hots and ground) On large HP pumps you will always have three wire motors because the caps. get too big to get them in the motor. It is best to go three phase with big pump if you can.

The gas cap may be clogged.

The next time you run the trimmer and it starts to die, loosen the gas cap. If it starts running again, then you know that it's a clogged gas cap.

You may also check the air breather, it may be dirty as well.

Just let me know if you need further assistance.

Jim

This sounds like a plugged evap valve. Try opening the gas cap when this happens. If the evap system is malfunctioning, it will use gas, but will not let air back in to replace the liquid leaving the tank thus collapsing the tank and cutting off fuel. It then takes a while to break the vacuum in the tank. If the car starts right away when you open the gas cap, have your evap system serviced by a professional. Another quick diagnosis is to take a look at the fuel tank. If it has been collapsed there will be small creases in it.

I just had this problem on a 97 Saturn.