Danby refrigerator model BFF092C1BSLDB remove evaporator panel notice evaporator frost up a bit of hard ice fan is free from ice but not spinning what is the most likely cause ?

Why is this question in camcorders?

Water can evaporate from ice. This is called "sublimation".

As a result, ice cubes shrink, especially in frost-free refrigerators, which are often very dry. Frost free models have a fan that circulates air internally so the moist air gets blown out, rather than

Freezers get condensation from moist air that gets inside when you open the door. Frost free models cycle off every few hours, and warm up a bit (a heating coil) to melt the condensation and then they blow that out so it won't form frost. They also blow out any vapour from the sublimating ice cubes. Then they cool down again.

Hello, would you happen to have the make and model number of your refrigerator? In a refrigerator the freezer side of the refrigerator is the only side that produces the cold. If your refrigerator side is not cool but your freezer side is one of the first things that you would check would be to open the freezer door and look along the rear wall of the freezer to see if you notice any frost or ice build up on the rear wall. If you did this is termed as a defrost issue and message me back that you do have this situation and I will instruct you how to diagnose this to correct this situation. If you had no ice/frost build up on the rear wall you would next assure that the evaporator fan is blowing air inside of your freezer. If you felt no air blowing inside of the freezer you would then remove the rear wall on the inside rear of the freezer by unscrewing the 1/4" screws. This would give you access to the evaporator coil and above the coil would be the evaporator fan motor. I will await your reply to your finds as to if there is any ice/ frost and if the evaporator fan is blowing air inside of the freezer before further diagnosing.
Thank you
Rick

If it is a frost free side by side fridge/freezer, check evaporator fun in the freezer. While doing that, check is evaporator is full of ice.

if the evaporator is iced up and the fan can spin freely, you have a broken fan. Replace it.

If evaporator and the fan are iced up, you have a broken thermostat. Defrost ice with hot water.
Turn it on, if it starts to cool effectively, replace thermostat.

Your freezer is not reaching the target temperature to produce ice - obviously your whole unit is not cooling properly - first thing to do is shut it off unplug it and remove the back panel from the freezer and look for ice buildup and overfrost on the evaporator - this is a classic symptom and will cause cooling problems - manually, using a hair dryer, melt the ice and frost from the evap until everything is cleared up and drips into the drain down the drip pan - once everything is cleared up put back the panel and turn everything on - allow a couple of hours for things to cool up - if it cools normally, then your problem relates to a faulty defrost system in which case you would need to have it serviced and replace one of the defrost timer components (control board, element, etc.)
Set one of these special refrigerator thermostats (not the mercury ones, but I use the round gauges) put one in freezer one in refrigerator and after couple of hours monitor the temps. Freezer should not be warmer than 10F - normally 0F, but optimal temps are -10F (and also if you want hard icecream) -10F allows faster recovery in case of outages. For refrigerator no warmer than 40F - you want optimal to be 34F.

You want to also make sure your evaporator fan motor is spinning and look for any door gasket leaks.

If, after checking your evaporator fan and coils for frost, and door gaskets and you notice your unit is not cooling properly and your compressor is running continuously without cycling off, then next step would be to check the condenser and clean the excess dust (which traps the heat) if your condensers are at the bottom and they are clean, then make sure the condenser fan at the back / bottom of your unit is running.

If all fails, then the last thing (rare) would be a sealed system leak, in which case you will need to get it serviced and it will cost you a lot of money.

If you notice your compressor cycling off before the target cooling temps, then raise your cooing knob at higher temps, if it works then your thermostat is out of calirbation.

If everything cools normally after you've defrosted manually then the problem relates to a defrost problem - in which case you will need to get it serviced and have the control board checked and defrost timer components.

If your freezer is cooling normally and not your refrigerator section, then check for any obstruction of the vents, door gaskets and if you have one, the damper flap not opening wide enough or at all to let cool air in, if applicable to your model.

best of luck.

It sounds like the freezer fan(evaporator) is wearing out. This problem is very hard to diagnose because the fan spins but no fast enough to circulated the chilled air thru the freezer and refrigerator. The parts and labor are around $300.00

i would replace the evaporator fan, this fan problem is hard to diagnose because the fan will spin but not fast enough to circulate the chilled air thru the freezer and the refrigerator. The minimum cost to repair/replace is around $300.00

if it seems like the evaporator is getting cold then your sealed system should appear to be ok. you need the evap fan to transfer cold air into fresh food section. if not turning u need to replace fan motor. make sure your not getting to much frost build up on the evap.

If the frozen side is colder than normal and some extra frost is forming where the fan blows,and there is ice in the bottom of freezer compartment, and the cool side is not cool enough, their is a good possability the defrosting unit is not removing all the frost and ice . the defrosting unit has a timer (usually near thermostat) that turns off the cooling fan and compressor and turns on a small heater around the evaporator ( about 20 minutes every 2 days) (evaporaror is cold heat exchanger coil inside the back wall behind a cover near the recirculating fan0, the fan circulates air to both compartments through two small openings, if these openeing are closed by ice buildup cool air can not circulate to the cool side. cure 1. remove all food and leave fridge off for 24 hours with doors open (take precautions to ensure children can't get locked in side and suffocate, if you get a qt of water in bottom of unit (may leak on floor) ice buildup that the defrost heater can not remove melted and was your problem . turn frig on replace food on unit. cure 2. turn frig off, remove food from both sides, remove shelves that block access to evaporator, remove cover over evaporator if you see the evaporator coils free of ice look at openings (2) to other side, one may be blocked with ice the other with frost, carefully melt ice with hair dryer.
If the evaporator coil is solid ice heater or timer or fan has failed. good luck

Same problem here with an Amana refrigerator with the freezer on the bottom. I removed the back panels and vacuumed dust and cat hair out. The back panel in the freezer was frosted over with ice on the bottom. I removed the shelves and food and used a hairdryer to loosen the panel. The ice maker made it harder to remove the plastic panel so I pulled it back and saw the cooling fins frozen solid. I used the hairdryer to melt the ice and a shop vacuum to collect the water. It works like new again.

KentC, This was my post on a model like yours.  Read thru this and let me know what you find.   If the ice/frost buildup is fairly thick and only on the back freezer panel then you have a defrost problem. Most likely the defrost thermostat is bad. It would be hard to explain how to test this in writing but there is a tech sheet underneath the fridge behind the grill on the r/f. It is in plastic which is stuck to the fridge. This tech sheet will tell you how to put it into diagnostic mode. First take the back panel of the freezer off (may need to get frost off first). Should be four 1/4" screws in each corner of the panel to remove. Will need to remove racks, door (should just lift off), and ice maker first. Remove vent in center of freezer panel by pushing up little tab in the center of the vent and using a screw driver to pop it loose on each side of the vent. Then remove thermistor cover on right hand side of panel. Remove (by pushing thru) ice maker plug. Once the panel is off put the fridge into defrost by the instructions on the tech sheet. If it goes into defrost (heater will get hot) then the main control board is bad. If not shut the doors to reset, defrost evaporator with a hair dryer and remove the defrost thermostat. It is a little metal round piece with two wires coming out of it and just clips onto the evaporator. Cut the two wires coming out of the thermostat, strip them back and splice them together. Now put it into defrost again. If the heater comes on then you know the thermostat is bad. Diagnostics mode can also test all functions i.e. condensor motor, compressor, evaporator fan, and thermistors. With all of that said, if it isn't a thick frost buildup the evaporator fan motor may be bad which is the most common repair on this model. It sits just behind the vent in the center of the freezer panel. Let me know what you find.