Roland cy 8 triggering problem?

Question edited for clarity and typo.
Question moved to category.

The only adjustment is 'song volume' on Page 12

https://asia-latinamerica-mea.yamaha.com/files/download/other_assets/4/335574/dd65_en_om.pdf

and

https://www.google.com/search?q=Yamaha+DD65%2C+increase+pad+volume

..

The hi-hat trigger goes into trigger #1. Using a footswitch will change the hi-hat trigger sound to a closed hi-hat. On page 8 of the user manual is the list of triggers and their assignments. Note that some new triggers from newer drumsets use TRS cables because they have two sensors within the drum head... Often the new ones have a rim shot snare trigger as well as a trigger for the mesh head. These newer different brand triggers would require special cables to be made to attempt to use them with the DM5. The DM5 is older technology now but is still useful.

Good job of troubleshooting... I assumed you have tried other triggers into the kick drum input and found it is dead. This leaves the problem in the "brain". Look in your manual for anything to do with sensitivity of the kick drum input. It is likely all the inouts are sampled and digitized by the same A-D convertor via a multiplexor switch. I was unable to find the schematic of your unit so I downloaded one for a Roland TD8. Often the different companies rob designs from eachother so one can glean methods from a different brand. As expected the inouts are conditioned and then go to a MUXX chip that samples the input. The signals are conditioned before going to the MUX by a limiter and before that there is an RF bypass cap on the input. IF you might have had a static discharge, that capcitor(s) may have shorted rendering those inouts dead. This is what I want you to try:with a suitable cable I would like you to pulse the kick input by momentarily connecting a 9 volt batery to it... try both polarities. If NEITHER polarity fires the kick, then I want you to take an ohmmeter and measure the resistance of the input. The Roland schematic has coupling capcitors and if your brand has similar circuits you should see infinite resistance... if you find it very low, say 100 ohms, probablly the RF bypass cap at the input is shorted. These will be surface mounted caps and you need to be a bit adept at electronic repair to replace them. Essentially I believe you will find a failure in teh interface ckt where those inputs come in.

On dual trigger devices makee SURE you use a three conductor cable that has a tip-ring-sleeve connectors both ends. This is similar to a 1/4 inch stereo cable. Single trigger devices only require the tip-sleeve type cable. It is common to have dual triggers on the snare and in your case on a cymbal and often users use the cable intended for the dual trigger on one of the single trigger ones and vice versa so the dual doesn't work.

Your clutch (the cymbal piece) has worn out. A hew one can be purchased at either Guitar Center
or Musician's Friend

Hope that helps!

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/cameron_463100ffd54b591d

It sounds like the sensor is bad in the unit... If you have only had it a few weeks, exercise your warraaanty for replacement. Repairing the piezo sensor is NOT really a DIY project.

As long as they're both 13", you shouldn't have a problem putting them together. As for the sound, that's a matter of personal taste (I prefer Sabian mixed with Zildjian myself).


Hope that helps!

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/cameron_463100ffd54b591d

The polarity switch selects whether the pressure causes a positive or negative electrical spike. This can affect whether your drum MODULE fires on the hit or when the hit is lifted.

Thin plastic triggers are an electret plastic and have piezoelectric properties.when their shape is changed by pressure, etc.

Obviously the hi hat trigger does not function properly, it either does not generate enough signal, or the signal doesn't come thru well, or the signal comes thru well but it doesn't trigger the sound unit properly.

This could be caused by:

- too low input sensitivity setting on the sound unit for the hi hat input
- a displaced or loosely fixed sensor (trigger) on the hi hat
- a partially damaged sensor
- a bad wire connection at the sensor
- a bad wire connection at the sensor connector
- a dirty contact on the sensor connector
- a dirty contact on the cable connector at either side of the cable
- a bad cable, a broken wire or poorly soldered wire in the cable connector at either side of the cable
- a dirty contact on the input connector of the sound unit
- a bad solder connection on the input connector of the sound unit (inside the unit)
- a bad solder contact on a component or a faulty component associated to that particular input in the sound unit (capacitors, resistors, diodes, transistors, ICs, etc.)

To rule out a damaged cable, just change it and see if the hi hat works ok with another cable, if it does, the cable was damaged.

If the sensors are interchangeable , try to swap the sensor with a sensor from another cymbal, see if the other sensor works well, if it doesn't, then the sensors are not the problem.

To see if there is a problem with the input on the sound unit, connect another cymbal to that input, if it works well, the input is not the problem, if it still doesn't work, check sensitivity/trigger level setting, check connector contacts for any dirt, check connector and component solder contacts inside the unit.

Also, try to connect the hi hat to another input on the sound unit, if it doesn't work well after that, there's a problem with your hi hat (sensor, wires, dirty connector on the sensor), if it works well instead, then there's a problem with the hi hat input on the sound unit (sensitivity/trigger level, dirty connector contacts, bad solder contacts, damaged components)

Another thing: try your hi hat connected as is, but have someone move the cable connectors while you play it.
If moving the cable connector at the sensor side results in a change of operation (it might start working well for an instant or so), you definitely have a problem with that connection (check for bad wires in sensor connector, cable connector and for dirt on both connectors' pins).

If moving the cable connector at the sound unit input side results in a change of operation, then there's a problem with that connection (check for bad solder points on the input connector inside the sound unit, check for bad wires in cable connector, check for dirt on both connectors' pins).

I hope you can fix it, otherwise just post me some feedback if anything seems unclear, i'll be glad to assist you.

regards

3rq8 (Triarcuate)