Toothed belt for Toyoto 4300 sewing machine

the needle / hook timing has to be exact for the thread to be picked up
turn the hand knob on the end until the needle is at the bottom of the movement and is just about to start coming up
The hook of the bobbin case should almost be at the eye of the needle
The bobbin case hook is not adjustable as it is fixed on the drive shaft but the arm that drives the needle shaft is clamped on the shaft so by loosening off that clamp the needle and be moved to correct position
under normal sewing operations including broken needles , that timing seldom alters much so if it is way out then suspect a belt drive problem between the upper drive shaft and the bobbin drive shaft
It is normally a toothed drive belt that may have jumped a tooth in which case a trip to a service center would be in order

Hi,
There is a shaft that runs from the top of the machine to the bottom, in turn driving the bottom gear and belt. Though it is hard to see, you will probably find that the gear at the top of that shaft has the teeth broken. It is not impossible to change but definitely difficult.

Hello Shirlene, If your Kenmore machine has two drive belts, a belt from the motor to an idler pulley and a belt from the idler pulley to the main shaft. I have found that the idler pulley needs some Teflon grease on the idler pulley shaft. On my machine, the squeak would go away for a while if I oiled this idler pulley shaft. But it was short lived. Only grease on the idler pulley shaft would silence the squeak.

Hi if the main shaft is turning the fault is a faulty encoder if it is not turning faulty drive belt or main motor. All these items are under the machines covers.

Maybe need a anew belt. Or the motor is running down.

Every few weeks you should put a drop of oil in the opening of the bobbin case (visible when the bobbin is out) after cleaning that area. (This is to the center front of the bobbin case.)

Every few months, you need to put oil (just a drop) on several points inside the face plate. One spot is high (near the thread take up lever when in its highest position). Then oil the upper shaft of the needle and presser foot mechanism and at the top of the section with the screw midway down the shaft (the farther back). Add a drop of oil at the bottom of the shafts (two spots), Additionally put a drop of oil farther right near the thread path.

Once a year, remove the top cover and place a drop of oil at both holes on the top. (One is near but to the right of the main spool pin; the other is near the thread guide at the take up lever.) Put a drop of oil at the hole at the center right of the deck of the sewing machine (right next to the motor and below the stitch width selector). With the top cover off, there are a number of spots that need oil. One is near the center of the machine at the take up lever (top of shaft). The next is at the center of the stitch width cam. Place another drop of oil at the top of the lever that rests against this cam. Place a drop of oil at the bottom of the lower gear (the one that turns in the horizontal plane). Also oil three points to the right of the vertical gear. (These are the two sections on the shaft to the right of the gear and the point in that same line just to the right of the screw to the back of the area.) Remove the bottom of the sewing machine and oil seven points (three to the left and 4 on the right). Do this carefully - you do not want to get oil on the motor or the belt. These points are on the left: on the shafts near screws at the top and bottom and one spot near the center just in front of the belt. For the points near the screws, the one further up is closer to the left edge of the nachine. On the right side: two points above the belt. One is right next to the belt and one is on the shaft below a screw (this shaft continues to the lowest oiling point on the left side).

The manual for the Singer 457 is available from Singer as a PDF: http://www.singerco.com/uploads/download/5d6ce627c00cb91c477d4703f1b704aab08a72c8.pdf . See the diagrams starting on page 53 (page 55 of the pdf) for the exact oiling points. I tried to explain these spots but I usually grab the manual for the pictures for my machine for the yearly oiling. You can buy a copy of the manual from Singer for $15 here: http://www.singerco.com/accessories/instruction-manuals/ . Enter the model number without any extra letters at the end of the model number. Then click Search.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

90% probable the needle arm shaft and bearings are jamming. This requires the needlebar and the take up lever drive to be disassembled from the upper shaft: probably $100 effort by a sewing machine repair person.10% probable the hook mechanism is jammed.The only way to identify the source is to separate the top drive shaft from the bottom drive shaft. Again this is repair shop acitivity but if you want to try it. Take off the end cover, and with a market mark the belt drive gear positions with reference to something static. Slip off the timing belt. If the hand wheel turns then the problem is in the hook area. If not it is in the needlebar area.Either way, your machine is not working and really the best solution is to spend the $$'s at your local sewing machine shop.....unlike an iPad or iPhone you can have these machines fixed locally.

I would say we need more info about the problem, like make, model, etc, etc., but, the truth is regardless of what brand it is, if the needle hits anything during it's journey down into the bobbin case area, then it's simply out of time. This is usually the result of someone trying to clean or repair the machine when they don't know what they're doing. Somehow the belt has slipped. If it's a geared drive belt then you must release tension, move it a tooth one way or the other and put it back together and try it, easily, to see if it's better. IF not then try it another tooth and so on until you get it back to where it should be. That's usually not more than a couple of teeth one way or the other. If it's just a smooth belt, then just release the tension and move the mechanism by hand in the same manner as you did with the toothed unit.

HI. Sew4Less.com (http://www.sew4less.com/index.php) has parts for your Phaff 230, including belts, a bobbin case, and both service and repair manuals.
SewingManuals.com (http://www.sewingmanuals.com/index.htm) has both the user and service manuals.

Hope this helps!

Happy Sewing!

Robbie

pull the 4 bottom rubber feet out and remove screws hidden in holes. Lift main body of serger up. you will see the gears. Probably drive gear on motor shaft got hot and slid on motor shaft.