How do you get the hub off to change the spindle seal? this is on a bad boy lawn mower 2300 series hydro gear, hydrolic driven zero turn mower?

You should have a sealed hub assembly. You change the whole thing as a unit. You need to remove the wheel and brake caliper, rotor, hub nut, and sometimes have to take off the swaybar end link and pop the lower ball joint to separate the lower control arm from the spindle to gain access to the hub bolts on the back side of the spindle to remove the hub assembly.

well is it a hydro or not
if its a hydro suspect a bad trans
if its belt driven unit suspect bad belts
next time put this in lawn mowers

Hello Friend:

#1) Raise Car in The Rear Support it Good on Jack Stands.

#2) Remove your Wheel or Wheels if Doing Both Sides.

#3) Now Right in The Center of Your HUB you'll see a Dome Cap Remove the Cap,Now Remove the Cotter Pin, then the Spindle Nut and Washer.

#4) Now you'll pull your Hub Assembly Off ,The Outside Bearing will more or Less Fall off the Hub.But you'll need to Remove the Outer Bearing Race Its the Metal Angled Race.

#5) Before you remove the Outer Race take a Seal Remover and Remove The Grease Seal on the Inside of Hub.

#6) Now the Inner Bearing Will Come Out.You NOW Can Remove Innner and Outer Races.Use a Puch and Hammer Lightly Tap it by Working your Punch Side to Side.

#7) Now You've Remove BOTH inner and Outer Bearing Assemblies.

#8) Before you Start to Install New Races ,Get some Brake Clean and Clean The Inner Hub and the Spindle Good.

#9) Use a Bearing Race Installer Tool to Tap your New Bearing Races in.NOTE: you Don't want to Scar the Beveled Part of the Race Cause thars Where your Bearings Rotate.

#9) Races are in : Now take a Wheel Bearing Packer if you have 1 Availible: If not Pack As Much Heavy Duty Hi Temp Bearing Grease Into the Bearings. And Put some on the Spindle Were your Bearing Run on.

#10) Now Using a Seal Installer Tap your Inner Grease Seal into the Inner Hub Housing.

#11) OK Now your Ready to Put Your Hub Back on:Note: Put a Little Grease in The Domed Cap after you've Got the Hub On.

#12) DON"TS Get Grease on your Brakes or anywhere in The Brake Pad Assembly. #2) Don't Use the OLD Cotter Pin Get a New One. :#3) When Adjusting your Spindle Nut Don't Under Tighten or Over Tighten==Just Snug it down where theres no Play when you Take your Hands 1-Top=1 Bottom and Make Sure theres No Play.

Rotate The Hub During And When Tightening your Spindle Nut.

Put Hub Grease Cap on and Whell or Wheels and you Should be Good to Go.

Thanks for Using Fixya Please let me Know the Quality of my Advice/Solution by Voting Thank You From: d_hubbs

The Constant Velocity (CV) joints are located on the inner and outer edges of the axle shaft. The axle shaft runs through the hub and bearing in the spindle.

Often the front wheel hub bearing assembly for driven and nondriven wheels is actually two tapered bearings facing each other.
Exploded view of a typical front wheel bearing assembly for a FWD vehicle. Courtesy of DaimlerChrysler Corporation Each of the bearings rides in its own race. Some front wheel bearings are sealed units and are lubricated for life. They are replaced and serviced as an assembly. Others are serviceable and require periodic lubrication and adjustment.
Except when making slight adjustments to the bearings, the bearing assembly must be removed for all service work.

• This is done with the vehicle on lifts and the wheel assembly removed.
• In the center of the hub there is a dust (grease) cap.
• Using slip-joint pliers or a special dust cap removal tool, wiggle the cap out of its recess in the hub.

A special tool for removing a dust cap. If one is not available use slip-joint pliers.

• Now remove the cotter pin and nut lock from the end of the spindle.
• Loosen the spindle nut while supporting the brake assembly and hub.
• On many vehicles you will need to remove the brake caliper to remove the brake disc and hub.
• Once the hub is free to come off the spindle, remove the spindle nut and the washer behind the nut.
• Move the hub slightly forward, then push it back. This should free the outer bearing so you can remove it.
• Now remove the hub assembly. A grease seal located on the back of the hub normally keeps the inner bearing from falling out when the hub is removed.
• To remove the bearing assembly, the grease must be removed first. In most cases, all you need to do to remove the seal is pry and pop it out of the hub.
• The inner bearing should then fall out.
• Keep the outer bearing and inner bearing separated if you plan on reusing them.
• Wipe the bearings and races or use brake parts cleaner to clean them.
• While doing this, pay close attention to the condition and movement of the bearings. The bearings need to rotate smoothly.
• Also visually inspect the bearings and races after they have been cleaned. any noticeable damage means they should be replaced.
• Also inspect the spindle. If it is damaged or excessively worn, the steering knuckle assembly should be replaced.
• Whenever a bearing is replaced, its race must also be replaced.
• Races are pressed in and out of the hub. Typically the old race can be driven out with a large drift and a hammer. Once the race has been removed, wipe all grease from the inside of the hub.
• The new race should be installed with the proper driver.
• During assembly, the bearings and hub assembly must be thoroughly and carefully lubricated.
• Care must be taken not to get grease on the brake disc or on any part that will directly contact the disc.
• Always use the recommended grease on this assembly. The grease must be able to withstand much heat and friction. If the wrong grease is used, it may not offer the correct protection or it may liquefy from the heat and leak out of the seals.
• The bearings should be packed with grease. It is important that the grease is forced into and around all of the rollers in the bearing. Merely coating the outside of the bearing with grease will not do the job.
• A bearing packer does the best job at packing in the grease. If one is not available, force grease into the bearing with your hand. Install the greased inner bearing into the hub.
• Install a new grease seal into the hub.
• To avoid damaging the seal, use the correct size driver to press the seal into the hub.
• Lubricate the spindle, then slip the hub over the spindle. Install the outer bearing, washer, and lock nut.
• The lock nut should be adjusted to the exact specifications given in the service manual.
• Often it is tightened until the hub cannot rotate, then it is loosened about one-half turn before it is set to the specified freeplay. The initial tightening seats the bearings into their races.
• Once the lock nut is tightened, install the nut lock and use a new cotter pin to retain the lock.
• The adjustment of the bearings can be checked with a dial indicator.

Wheel bearing adjustments can be checked with a dial indicator. Reprinted with permission.

• Mount the base of the indicator as close as possible to the center of the hub.
• Locate the tip of the indicator's plunger on the tip of the spindle.
• Set the indicator to zero.
• Firmly grasp the brake disc and move it in and out.
• The total movement shown on the indicator is the amount of freeplay at the bearing.
• Compare your reading to the specifications and make adjustments as necessary.

WARNING Throughout this entire process, your hands will have grease on them. Be very careful not to touch the brake assembly with your greasy hands. Clean them before handling the brake parts or use a clean rag to hold the brake assembly.

• The front bearing arrangement often found on FWD and 4WD vehicles is often nonserviceable.
• These bearings are pressed in and out of the hub to be replaced. To do this, the axle or half shaft is removed, as is the steering knuckle and hub assembly.
• The bearings may be sealed and require no additional lubrication or they may need to be packed with grease when they are reassembled. In most cases, the bearings are not adjusted.
• A heavily torqued axle nut is used to hold the assembly in place on the axle.
• This nut is typically replaced after it has been removed and is staked in place after it is tightened.

Often the front wheel hub bearing assembly for driven and nondriven wheels is actually two tapered bearings facing each other.
Exploded view of a typical front wheel bearing assembly for a FWD vehicle. Courtesy of DaimlerChrysler Corporation Each of the bearings rides in its own race. Some front wheel bearings are sealed units and are lubricated for life. They are replaced and serviced as an assembly. Others are serviceable and require periodic lubrication and adjustment.
Except when making slight adjustments to the bearings, the bearing assembly must be removed for all service work.

• This is done with the vehicle on lifts and the wheel assembly removed.
• In the center of the hub there is a dust (grease) cap.
• Using slip-joint pliers or a special dust cap removal tool, wiggle the cap out of its recess in the hub.

A special tool for removing a dust cap. If one is not available use slip-joint pliers.

• Now remove the cotter pin and nut lock from the end of the spindle.
• Loosen the spindle nut while supporting the brake assembly and hub.
• On many vehicles you will need to remove the brake caliper to remove the brake disc and hub.
• Once the hub is free to come off the spindle, remove the spindle nut and the washer behind the nut.
• Move the hub slightly forward, then push it back. This should free the outer bearing so you can remove it.
• Now remove the hub assembly. A grease seal located on the back of the hub normally keeps the inner bearing from falling out when the hub is removed.
• To remove the bearing assembly, the grease must be removed first. In most cases, all you need to do to remove the seal is pry and pop it out of the hub.
• The inner bearing should then fall out.
• Keep the outer bearing and inner bearing separated if you plan on reusing them.
• Wipe the bearings and races or use brake parts cleaner to clean them.
• While doing this, pay close attention to the condition and movement of the bearings. The bearings need to rotate smoothly.
• Also visually inspect the bearings and races after they have been cleaned. any noticeable damage means they should be replaced.
• Also inspect the spindle. If it is damaged or excessively worn, the steering knuckle assembly should be replaced.
• Whenever a bearing is replaced, its race must also be replaced.
• Races are pressed in and out of the hub. Typically the old race can be driven out with a large drift and a hammer. Once the race has been removed, wipe all grease from the inside of the hub.
• The new race should be installed with the proper driver.
• During assembly, the bearings and hub assembly must be thoroughly and carefully lubricated.
• Care must be taken not to get grease on the brake disc or on any part that will directly contact the disc.
• Always use the recommended grease on this assembly. The grease must be able to withstand much heat and friction. If the wrong grease is used, it may not offer the correct protection or it may liquefy from the heat and leak out of the seals.
• The bearings should be packed with grease. It is important that the grease is forced into and around all of the rollers in the bearing. Merely coating the outside of the bearing with grease will not do the job.
• A bearing packer does the best job at packing in the grease. If one is not available, force grease into the bearing with your hand. Install the greased inner bearing into the hub.
• Install a new grease seal into the hub.
• To avoid damaging the seal, use the correct size driver to press the seal into the hub.
• Lubricate the spindle, then slip the hub over the spindle. Install the outer bearing, washer, and lock nut.
• The lock nut should be adjusted to the exact specifications given in the service manual.
• Often it is tightened until the hub cannot rotate, then it is loosened about one-half turn before it is set to the specified freeplay. The initial tightening seats the bearings into their races.
• Once the lock nut is tightened, install the nut lock and use a new cotter pin to retain the lock.
• The adjustment of the bearings can be checked with a dial indicator.

Wheel bearing adjustments can be checked with a dial indicator. Reprinted with permission.

• Mount the base of the indicator as close as possible to the center of the hub.
• Locate the tip of the indicator's plunger on the tip of the spindle.
• Set the indicator to zero.
• Firmly grasp the brake disc and move it in and out.
• The total movement shown on the indicator is the amount of freeplay at the bearing.
• Compare your reading to the specifications and make adjustments as necessary.

WARNING Throughout this entire process, your hands will have grease on them. Be very careful not to touch the brake assembly with your greasy hands. Clean them before handling the brake parts or use a clean rag to hold the brake assembly.

• The front bearing arrangement often found on FWD and 4WD vehicles is often nonserviceable.
• These bearings are pressed in and out of the hub to be replaced. To do this, the axle or half shaft is removed, as is the steering knuckle and hub assembly.
• The bearings may be sealed and require no additional lubrication or they may need to be packed with grease when they are reassembled. In most cases, the bearings are not adjusted.
• A heavily torqued axle nut is used to hold the assembly in place on the axle.
• This nut is typically replaced after it has been removed and is staked in place after it is tightened.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3. Remove the caliper from the spindle and rotor, but do not disconnect the brake hose. Suspend the caliper inside the fender housing with a length of wire. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.
4. Remove the grease cap from the hub and remove the cotter pin, nut retainer and adjusting nut.
5. Grasp the hub/rotor assembly and pull it out far enough to loosen the washer and outer wheel bearing. Push the hub/rotor assembly back onto the spindle and remove the washer and outer wheel bearing.
6. Remove the hub/rotor assembly from the spindle.
7. Inspect the rotor for scoring and wear. Replace or machine as necessary. If machining, observe the minimum thickness specification.

1. If the rotor is being replaced, remove the protective coating from the new rotor with brake cleaner. Pack a new set of bearings with high-temperature wheel bearing grease and install the inner roller bearing in the inner cup. Pack grease lightly between the lips of a new seal and install the seal, using a seal installer.
2. If the original rotor is being installed, make sure the grease in the hub is clean and adequate, the inner bearing and grease seal are lubricated and in good condition, and the rotor braking surfaces are clean.
3. Install the hub/rotor assembly on the spindle. Keep the assembly centered on the spindle to prevent damage to the grease seal or spindle threads.
4. Install the outer wheel bearing, washer and adjusting nut. Adjust the wheel bearings according to the procedure in , then install the nut retainer, cotter pin and grease cap.

The wheel bearings on your car is contained in a sealed wheel hub. You have to change the whole hub to change the bearing. Remove the wheel, the brake caliper, the rotor. There will be three bolts holding the hub on from the back. You will need to remove these bolts and slide the hub off of the spindle. then grease the spindle slide on your new hub and bolt everything back together.

IF this is the driverside. The vent tube for the fourwheel drive is on that side it might be plugged that is where i would start look to see if the axle is full of oil if not i bet that is the problem. Find the vent hose and blow out with air

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