How do you remove the top from an LG WM2455 washer?

1. Unplug the washer. 2. Unscrew the 2 screws at the top back of the washer that secures the top of washer pane, slide it back and lift off, remove and set aside. 3. Pull out the dispenser tray and depress the tab at the back to full remove. 4. Remove the dispenser mounting screws, slide the dispenser back. 5. Carefully pull the control panel off from the top, disconnect the two wire harnesses and set the control panel aside. 6. Use needle nose pliers to remove the retaining wire and spring from the door boot seal, pull the seal away from the lip of the front panel. 7. Remove the 3 door mounting screws to release door latch assembly from the front panel. 8. Open and detach the filter access door and release the drain tube from the retaining tab. 9. Remove the screws inside the filter housing securing the front panel. 10. Carefully lift the front of the washer up and support it. 11. You can now remove the screws at the bottom securing the front panel(if your has these, mine were missing). 12. Now is also a good time to detach the pump assembly wire retainer from the base(small white plastic tab sticking downward). 13. Remove the support and gently lower the washer back down. 14. Remove the mounting screws on top of the front panel. 15. Now, use a flat head screw driver to depress the locking tabs to release the front panel from the frame. 16. Detach the recirculation hose from the retaining brackets on the inside of the front panel and set the panel aside. 17. Uncap the drain tube, and drain the excess water, then recap the tube. 18. Release the retaining clamps securing the hoses to the pump assembly and slide the hoses off.(be prepared for some water to spill). 19. Remove the two screws securing the pump assembly to the mounting bracket. 20. Now, push the assembly back to release it from the base. 21. Next, detach the drain pump cover(top white plastic cover) and disconnect the wires, now remove the 3 mounting screws and pull off the old pump. 21. Install the new drain pump by properly aligning it on the assembly. 22. Replace the mounting screws to secure. 23. Connect the wires to the new pump and snap on the cover. 24. Position the pump assembly into the cabinet base by inserting the mounting tab into the slots in the base, then push forward. 25. Replace the screws to secure the assembly to the mounting bracket. 26. Snap the wire retainer into the base. 27. Reattach all of the hoses to the appropriate ports on the assembly and position the retaining clamps to secure. 28. Replace the front panel, by aligning the slots in the panel with the tabs on the base. 29. Secure the recirculation hose in the retaining brackets, making sure the door latch is inside the cabinet and snap the top half the panel into position. 30. Replace the screws on top. 31. Lift and support the washer, then replace the screws on bottom. 32. Remove the support and lower the washer. 33. Replace the 2 screws in the filter housing. 34. Secure the drain tube under the retaining tab. 35. Reattach the filter access door and snap it closed. 36. Now, realign the door latch assembly in the front panel, and replace the mounting screws. 37. Align the boot seal on the front lip of the panel. 38. Replace the retaining wire and spring to secure. 39. Replace the control panel, by first reconnecting the wire harnesses. 40. Now, insert the control panel tabs into the slots into the trim and snap the top half of the panel into place. 41. Reposition the dispenser and replace the mounting screws. 42. Slide the tray into place. 43. Reposition the top panel by aligning the edge of the panel with tabs on the support bracket, then push forward.
44. Replace the screws at the back. 45. Plug the power cord back in. Your done!
Your washer should be ready to use now!!! Good Job!
You should find this video useful, even if it is for a different model washer, it is what I used as a reference. Drain Pump Replacement part DC31 00054D Samsung Washer Repair

You can also gain access from the back by removing the back panel...The top on this washer can also be removed..Remove the dispenser cover...Take a putty knife..Insert it in between the top cover and the cabinet ..Push in the tabs located 4 inches in from the sides.

The tub was slipping on the motor and when loaded would not spin. I noted when accessing through the back panel that the rotor bolt was loose, probably from the factory as the unit has been used less than two years. When I inspected the rotor, the plastic insert that is screwed into the rotor housing and provides the splined hole that fits over the splined shaft from the motor/stator, the plastic ridges had been destroyed. There are three screws mounting the plastic piece onto the rotor so it appears that the designers anticipated selling replacement for the plastic piece alone. So far this evening, I've only been able to find complete rotor assemblies costing $100+.
So, bottom line, your rotor may just be loose.

hello, did you check the water pump? some times gets clog, you can find it removing the back panel.

The panel should have 2 or 3 screws on the backside of top panel.

1. Unplug the washer. 2. Unscrew the 2 screws at the top back of the washer that secures the top of washer pane, slide it back and lift off, remove and set aside. 3. Pull out the dispenser tray and depress the tab at the back to full remove. 4. Remove the dispenser mounting screws, slide the dispenser back. 5. Carefully pull the control panel off from the top, disconnect the two wire harnesses and set the control panel aside. 6. Use needle nose pliers to remove the retaining wire and spring from the door boot seal, pull the seal away from the lip of the front panel. 7. Remove the 3 door mounting screws to release door latch assembly from the front panel. 8. Open and detach the filter access door and release the drain tube from the retaining tab. 9. Remove the screws inside the filter housing securing the front panel. 10. Carefully lift the front of the washer up and support it. 11. You can now remove the screws at the bottom securing the front panel(if your has these, mine were missing). 12. Now is also a good time to detach the pump assembly wire retainer from the base(small white plastic tab sticking downward). 13. Remove the support and gently lower the washer back down. 14. Remove the mounting screws on top of the front panel. 15. Now, use a flat head screw driver to depress the locking tabs to release the front panel from the frame. 16. Detach the recirculation hose from the retaining brackets on the inside of the front panel and set the panel aside. 17. Uncap the drain tube, and drain the excess water, then recap the tube. 18. Release the retaining clamps securing the hoses to the pump assembly and slide the hoses off.(be prepared for some water to spill). 19. Remove the two screws securing the pump assembly to the mounting bracket. 20. Now, push the assembly back to release it from the base. 21. Next, detach the drain pump cover(top white plastic cover) and disconnect the wires, now remove the 3 mounting screws and pull off the old pump. 21. Install the new drain pump by properly aligning it on the assembly. 22. Replace the mounting screws to secure. 23. Connect the wires to the new pump and snap on the cover. 24. Position the pump assembly into the cabinet base by inserting the mounting tab into the slots in the base, then push forward. 25. Replace the screws to secure the assembly to the mounting bracket. 26. Snap the wire retainer into the base. 27. Reattach all of the hoses to the appropriate ports on the assembly and position the retaining clamps to secure. 28. Replace the front panel, by aligning the slots in the panel with the tabs on the base. 29. Secure the recirculation hose in the retaining brackets, making sure the door latch is inside the cabinet and snap the top half the panel into position. 30. Replace the screws on top. 31. Lift and support the washer, then replace the screws on bottom. 32. Remove the support and lower the washer. 33. Replace the 2 screws in the filter housing. 34. Secure the drain tube under the retaining tab. 35. Reattach the filter access door and snap it closed. 36. Now, realign the door latch assembly in the front panel, and replace the mounting screws. 37. Align the boot seal on the front lip of the panel. 38. Replace the retaining wire and spring to secure. 39. Replace the control panel, by first reconnecting the wire harnesses. 40. Now, insert the control panel tabs into the slots into the trim and snap the top half of the panel into place. 41. Reposition the dispenser and replace the mounting screws. 42. Slide the tray into place. 43. Reposition the top panel by aligning the edge of the panel with tabs on the support bracket, then push forward.
44. Replace the screws at the back. 45. Plug the power cord back in. Your done!
Your washer should be ready to use now!!! Good Job!
You should find this video useful, even if it is for a different model washer, it is what I used as a reference. Drain Pump Replacement part DC31 00054D Samsung Washer Repair

There should be 3 screws at the very bottom of the bottom panel, Remove panel there should be a canister shaped screw top. You can unscrew that. That is your filter before the water pump. Make sure you have some towels ready. Good luck!

you're in a bad spot. you will need to remove top metal panel of washer; and carefully separate the drawer housing a little and wiggle the drawer out. one of the compartments in the drawer popped up and jammed the drawer.

Shut the water supply valves off and put a bucket under where they connect to the machine. Unscrew hoses one at a time and look into the opening of the valve. You eill see the screen filter. Remove with needle nose pliers,clean and re-install. Do the same with the other hose. Re attach the water hose and turn the water back on. Check for leaks and then test.

First of all, you do remove the a panel from the front.

On the inside floor of the machine, there were two "L" brackets with a hole for bolts, There were also two brackets on the bottom of the tub with similar holes. One pair was on the left bottom side and the other was on the bottom right.

It appeared that a bolt or some type of "dampening" connector was meant to go through to these holes. But there were no broken parts lying inside.That was my first "guess" for their purpose.

The left side (as facing the machine) "L" floor brackets and a tub bracket had been " bent" in such a way that that when the tub shook enough, the two brackets prevented the tub from moving too far. But not the pair on the right hand side. Go figure.

How it ever got this way or whether this was a "jury-rigged" solution at the factory (because they ran out of parts) is beyond me. Maybe the two brackets were meant to act as some form of "stop". But why were bent in such a fashion? And why only the ones on the left bottom side of the machine? I swear somebody bent them on purpose but that's me.

In any case, the tub had moved far enough that the bent tub bracket had slipped around the bent floor bracket. When ever the machine was on "wash" or "rinse" this "configuration" would bang against each other loudly. But it would not happen during the "spin" cycle.

I simply bent the two left hand side brackets back into a someone normal configuration (as with the bottom right floor and tub brackets) and put every thing back together. The banging sound was gone. However, you could still hear the brackets hitting each other on heavy loads. But it was not the "BOOM" I was getting before.

Eventually, the four rubber top corner "shock" springs will need replacing but at least things are quiet for the moment. But why or how the left bottom tob and floor brackets got so bent out of shape is beyond me. "Human intervention" or normal "wear and tear"?

Mark