Janome Sewist 525S Mechanical Sewing Machine Logo

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Karen Franklin Posted on Aug 09, 2016

My Janome 525s will only sew on the stretch stitches even when the dial is on a simple straight stitch.

Was sewing Ok, tried out the selection of Ss stitches, went to change back to a straight stitch, A on the pattern selector dial, but seems to be stuck on staight stretch stitch, but sews Ok in reverse! Only had the machine a week so not sure if it's a fault or me not understanding how to use it.

5 Related Answers

bargainbox

Hassy

  • 1388 Answers
  • Posted on May 09, 2008

SOURCE: I have a janome 10001,

Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tension to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FINISHING UP & GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !

If you want any more help with this, just post back here, or, drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at

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SewTechWayne

SewTechWayne

  • 186 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 30, 2009

SOURCE: The Reverse stitch button

The feed mechanism needs to be oiled. Take off the bottom cover and look for any place where two parts move against each other. Some binds can be very difficult to remove. Try spraying everything with a light weight oil (I like Tri-Flow) and let them soak over night. Then manually try to move the feed dogs with your hand. Hopefully it will break loose.
Good luck!

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jan 12, 2010

SOURCE: Janome dc 3050 sewing machine cannot change stitch

Downloaded operating manual. problem fixed.

ken dourof

  • 980 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 14, 2010

SOURCE: MC4400 skips on the zig zag stitch when sewing

You must buse an anti static needle otherwise yoiu will miss stitches.

Anonymous

  • 340 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 16, 2010

SOURCE: lost my sewing instruction manual when moving

Hi
You can download some partial manuals from the Janome site.
This is for the Janome D'cor Excel Pro 5124:
http://content.janome.com/documents/File/ManualFile/DecorExcelPro5124.pdf
Which should be similar to the ohter model number you mention.
Hope this helps!

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What are the best settings on the 4 dials for the straight stitch? Do the ones on top have to match the wheel settings below? Thanks from a novice

Hello,
#1- tension settings, set this to "5" and leave it
#2- width control setting, 0 would be straight while 5 would be the full width of the stitch (would make a wide zig zag)
#3- Length control, larger the number, longer the stitch. (usually you will set this from 1.5 to 2.5)
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0ef6a12.jpg
Let me know if you need more help :) Chris
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V / 1234 / 123454321 / 2016
www.bargainbox.com.au
This then would be a Model 2016
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