How old is this stove?? Dual ,large element gets toooo hot...is this repairable..??? expensive ??? worth the repair ??

Based on the symptoms described, it is possible that the issue lies with the ceramic element that the burners connect to at the back of the burner unit. This could be causing a short circuit between the two burners, which is preventing the large burner from being adjusted lower when both burners are on.

It is also possible that there is an issue with the wiring or connections between the two burners, which is causing a similar short circuit. However, given that the smaller burner appears to be working fine, this seems less likely.

Another potential cause of this issue could be a problem with the control board or another component of the stove's electrical system. However, given that replacing the infinite switch and receptacle for the large burner did not resolve the issue, it seems less likely that this is the root cause.

In order to determine the exact cause of this issue, it may be necessary to consult with a professional appliance repair technician who can diagnose and repair the stove.

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I tried to find your specific range by Google search, but the only reference to the "jeco----------" is on this forum, so I couldn't determine whether this stove is a gas or electric model.
IFyou are talking about an electric stove burner, then either one of the elements is malfunctioning or broken, or the contacts are dirty or otherwise not making good connection to the stove's burner receptacle. The way to check this is to remove the burner element and swap the similar element into its place to see if it works properly. Assuming the receptacle is not dirty or contaminated with debris, the burner should work normally. If it doesn't (but DID work in the receptacle you pulled it from) then either the receptacle itself is dirty/corroded/contaminated, or the control switch is bad.

Since you are having problems with multiple elements the problem is probably the circuit board that controls them. This can be ordered and replaced. Be sure to unplug the stove before getting into the circuit board though.

replace element block clean(sand) ends of element(burner)yes it is worth fixing

This stove uses a special switch that turns one way for the large burner and the other way for the smaller burner. I was not aware that this had a seperate simmer burner on it, however. I think you using the wrong term there.

This is not computer controlled--the only computer on it should be the oven switch. I would assume that you need to replace the switch for the dual-size burner. If you take your model number in to Sears, or log onto Sears dot com, you should be able to get to the PARTS DIRECT web site on the computer, and if they ever sold that model you should be able to pull up a parts breakdown with expanded drawing and part numbers and prices. You should be able to buy the part from them. The part should be virtually the same as ANY recent model Frigidaire or Kenmore stove with the same style burner. This should be a very easy repair for you to make yourself, assuming that you know a little about working with electricity--remember, this stove USES 220 VOLTS!

Check out all of the wiring coming into the switch and going from the switch to the burner to be sure that there is not a short!

If you have one of the older smooth surface stoves, where the burners are part of the ceramic top, all bets are off, but anything you bought new in the last half-dozen years, should have a separate burner underneath a glass top, and the repair should be simple. Even with the older stove, it is still likely the switch, and should be no problem.

First thing to check is to put your hand over the burner when the indicator comes on and see if the burner is actually hot! DO NOT actually touch the burner! The smell of your own burning flesh is not so pleasant, and could cause you to pass out with your hand still on the burner or something like that, so be careful. More than likely, the problem is with the burner switch, but could be with anything between that and the actual element.

What did they quote you $350 to repair???? Was that parts and labor, or just parts? Sounds very high. If, however, you have one of the older stoves with a ceramic top that had the element in the top, you have to replace the whole thing to fix one burner, not very smart, economically. Newer stoves use seperate elements beneath the glass top, and so are much less expensive to repair.

Go to the Sears.com website, and click on the parts link (it's in a line of grey typed links, relatively small font, a couple of inches below the top of the website home page, and toward the right side.) Type in your model number on the right side of the parts page where it says to, and it will come up with a parts breakdown that has a list of the parts and their prices. If they never sold your model, you might have to come up with a similar model that they did sell in order to get parts listings that would work.

That will at least give you an idea of prices. You should also look at the switch for that burner.  If the burner won't run on either size setting, I'd suspect the switch or that the power is not getting to that switch.

Remember, you are working with 220 VOLTS here, and be very careful. But if you can handle a voltmeter, you can determine if power is getting to the switch, and getting out of the switch, and if it is getting to the element. You can buy a DVM at Radio Shack or Sears, or just about anywhere else, these days. Elenco is a company that makes decent ones very cheaply, and you can buy them online. Or you might have a friend or relative who has one at home, and knows how to use it around 220 volt circuits....

the sensor is built on to the top of the surface element if it was me id replace both the element and switch so you only have to go in once but its probably the element

Check the center ring. If it is open replace it.