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3 wire cord or 4 wire cord?
3 wire would be normally 120 volts
4 wires would be 240 volts don't know if that would be common in an RV?
If 120, is it 15 amp or 20 amp?
Again, would not know if 20 A would be found in an RV?
If 20 A you would have one position in the cord - Sideways.
Any with the presumption 120 Volt - Same for either 15A or 20 A , Black wire onto Gold lug.
White wire onto Silver lug.
Green wire onto Green lug
Check to see if there is a GFI outlet in the house or garage. Reset if tripped. My wife would trip the GFI in the garage when she used the hair dryer in upstairs bathroom.
There is a GFI on the bottom right hand corner of the heater. It is a black box with 5 wires on the bottom in this order: blue, white, green ground, black, and white. The voltage across the blue/white should be about 100VAC and the voltage across the black/white should also be 100VAC. If the black/white isn't registering any voltage, the gfi is tripped.
The GFI typically trips due to moisture in the unit; however, it can also be fried if there was a voltage surge while you were gone. Use a hair dryer to dry up any moisture inside the unit, specifically around the GFI. If the water is pooling or you see a visible drip coming from the top of the heater, you heat exchanger is probably leaking and needs to be replaced.
If you have voltage on both sides of your gfi, check the voltage at the remote terminals. You should have 15VDC. If there is no voltage, you circuit board is damaged and needs to be replaced. If there is voltage at the remote terminals but no display on your remote, then check your remote wiring.
I suggest replacing the whole water heater instead of just the rod. Usually the water is at the end of its useful life it the rod needs replacing. You will probably need to do that soon anyway. However, if you do replace it and have no head room, you will have to totally disconnect the heater, lay it on its side to do the job. (might as well replace the unit if you are doing all that work.)
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