Arctic air freezer

Hello David;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

If your freezer is running continually something is wrong. Your refrigerator freezer will run, then shut down to go through the defrost mode. The defrost mode is usually 10 to 20 minutes approximately every 8-10 hours.

What is happing is your compressor is trying to maintain the set temperature and will not shut down until it does.

So, you either have a bad condenser fan (Cools the heat), a frozen cooling coil (Cooling air obstructed) or a bad cooling fan.

Un plug your freezer for 24 hours. Put plenty of old towels under the freezer to collect the frozen ice.

Clean the condensing coils underneath. If the fab=n on the bottom is not running, use a household fan and blow air under the freezer until you can replace the lower fan.

Send me a model number. I will give you the part number you need. Easy fix.

Depends are you referring to the condenser fan or the evaporation fan? If it's the condenser fan you may have an issue with debris in the condenser coil not letting enough air flow to cool down so it will stay on to keep from burning up compressor.If it's inside the evaporator coil then it may be low on refrigerant possibly freezing up the evap coil making it run then kick into defrost run kick into defrost etc... hope this helps

Hello Tanya - When was the last time you cleaned the condensers? You may do so by removing the toe grille and use extended vacuum attachment and condenser cleaning brush to remove dust buildup from condenser coils usually located on the left side underneath. If you hear the compressor running and if it is providing warm air then that means it is operating correctly and the sealed system is removing heat from the cabinet. Fan motor/evaporator may be the primary issue. However, if you do not hear the compressor and the unit is blowing room temperature then the unit may possibly have a sealed system leak, faulty compressor or overload relay. Contact a professional to move forward accurately from this point.

Hello Lan Sutton - Since the unit is now not cooling, when was the last time you cleaned the condensers? You may do so by removing the toe grille and use extended vacuum attachment and condenser cleaning brush to remove dust buildup from condenser coils usually located on the left side underneath. If you hear the compressor running and if it is providing warm air then that means it is operating correctly and the sealed system is removing heat from the cabinet. Fan motor/evaporator or control board may be the primary issue. However, if you do not hear the compressor and the unit is blowing room temperature then the unit may possibly have a sealed system leak, faulty compressor or overload relay. Contact a professional to move forward accurately from this point.

Hello - When was the last time you cleaned the condensers? You may do so by removing the toe grille and use extended vacuum attachment and condenser cleaning brush to remove dust buildup from condenser coils usually located on the left side underneath. If you hear the compressor running and if it is providing warm air then that means it is operating correctly and the sealed system is removing heat from the cabinet. Fan motor/evaporator may be the primary issue. However, if you do not hear the compressor and the unit is blowing room temperature then the unit may possibly have a sealed system leak, faulty compressor or overload relay. Contact a professional to move forward accurately from this point.

Hi - Typically freezers are not recommended to be located outside because if the garage temperature is above 100 degrees, it will have difficulties performing optimally due to un-circulating air. Some manufacturers have garage kit design to help with this issue. It is design to solely be used during the winter to provide heat to the coils which trigger the compressor to come on. During the summer months, generally it is not needed.

When was the last time you cleaned the condensers? You may do so by removing the toe grille and use extended vacuum attachment and condenser cleaning brush to remove dust buildup from condenser coils usually located on the left side underneath. If you hear the compressor running and if it is providing warm air then that means it is operating correctly and the sealed system is removing heat from the cabinet. Fan motor/evaporator may be the primary issue. However, if you do not hear the compressor and the unit is blowing room temperature then the unit may possibly have a sealed system leak, faulty compressor or overload relay. Contact a professional to move forward accurately from this point.

Sorry to read about your problem. you can have many different problems.
I think you have lost freon, but you could have the problems below.

1. Bad temp control
2. Defective compressor
3. Defective start cap
4. Defective overload protector
5. Defective control board

I suggest you call a service company.

I have tried to help you. Please help me, by Vote/Rate my response. Thanks.

If you live in the Denver area, I can help you.

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Defrost problem.

ok well... those pipes coming from your compressor one of them should be hot. if not your compressor is not running.

HI,

If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

First, answer these questions:

• Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”



• Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.

Next, see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

• The compressor



• The Thermostat



• The overload, relay, or capacitor



• The defrost timer



• The condenser fan motor

Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

• The defrost timer



• The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)



• The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.