Square D circuit breaker in a home fuse panel and I have already replaced the breaker with a new one.

you say you have a square d panel and you have a eaton breaker this may be the problem square d should always have a square d breaker and eaton with eaton they dont fit wright in the panel they are made for each other ,you should check the panel and breaker to see if all the wires are tight if there is no problem there check the plug in the wall if there all tight ,it may be drawing to many amps and blowiing the breaker,

It may or may not, depending on the root cause of the GFI tripping. If the GFI is faulty (which does happen) then yes. However if you have a problem with the motor or the circuit to the motor then you will still have issues and the GFI was doing it's job.
Since you already purchased one go ahead and install it and see if it works then go from there.
Good luck

A circuit breaker can go bad, but usually not in the way that you describe. That's not to say that it can't happen, but just not typical. GTE Sylvania breakers were once popular - I installed quite a few GTE / Sylvania electrical panels in homes in the late 80's. You may have trouble finding replacements; do not put an breaker that "fits" into the panel, unless the breaker is designed for use in the panel you have.

The first thing to do is determine the source of the problem. The breaker will trip, but not indicate if it was the result of a heavy electrical load or a ground fault condition. A 15 amp circuit breaker is designed to carry up to 12 amps continuously. The greater the load, the more quickly it will trip. it may carry a 14.5 amp load for several minutes to an hour before tripping, and a 20 amp load may be carried a second or two. GFI breakers are designed to carry 5 thousandths (.005) of an amp (or 5 milliamps) to ground, or the 12+ amps to neutral before they trip.

The way I would attack the problem is to install a new GFI outlet in front of the old wiring, by "inserting it" between the panel and the other plugs and lights, switches, etc on that circuit. The GFI outlet will provide the same GFI protection that the circuit breaker provided at a fraction of the cost.

Turn off the old GFI breaker, and remove it completely. Install a new, standard (non-GFI) single pole 15 amp circuit breaker in its place. Completely remove from the panel the cable that the old GFI breaker fed. Buy a new electrical outlet box (surface or flush mount as desired) that is large enough and deep enough for a GFI plug and 2 cables (if surface mount, use a 4" square deep box and appropriate cover - or if flush mounting use a deep plastic / fiber single gang box). It will be installed in a place close to the panel, but where the old cable will be able to reach inside. Bring the old cable removed from the panel into the new box. Run a new cable that has the same number and size wires from the panel into the new box, too. Connect the circuit neutral and circuit ground to the neutral and ground bars in the panel (they are probably the same bar) and the hot wire to the circuit breaker. make sure that the circuit breaker is OFF. Twist the two ground wires together and combine an 8 inch length of bare or green insulated wire with them in a wirenut.

Next, wire a new GFI plug in the new box. Connect the green wire from the wirenut to the green terminal of the GFI outlet.

Connect the plug's LINE terminals to the neutral and hot wires in the cable that you ran from the panel to the outlet box.

Now, connect the GFI plug's LOAD terminals to the neutral and hot wires in the cable that you removed from the panel and reinstalled into the new outlet box.

Secure the GFI outlet into the box and install the cover. Cover the electrical panel.

Power up and test. if the GFI trips, there's a ground fault in the circuit. If the circuit breaker trips, the circuit is overloaded.

A shunt trip breaker operation.

It works just like a normal circuit breaker with one additional function. A shunt-trip breaker also has a built-in magnetic coil that can be energized externally to trip the breaker.

So what is wired to the shunt that is not letting the breaker reset?


Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_does_a_shunt_trip_breaker_work#ixzz1EXNCP5r0

Yes,but no one should have a fuse box in
their home, for the last 40 years.

Not Code to have one

You definately need to replace the panelboard/loadcenter. When you buy a new one or have one installed, it needs to be appropriate for your specific situation. If the box will be in an area where there is condensation, dust, water etc those things are listed as approved for some boxes but not all. The UL number on the replacement box will clarify exactly what each box is approved for.

Hello Bill The temp stat is a square box clipped in under the elements .Can be replaced in 5 minutes.Need a large flat screwdriver.

I would start by replacing the breaker. If a new one trips then check ground and wiring. If it still trips then there must be a problem with the garbage disposal. let us know

Toward the back, by the bed you will see a grill/box. It will have a small, square, black buttton at the top, in the middle. You will need to turn this little button 90 degrees to open the door to the electrical panel. The door will drop down, and you will see all of your fuses for living portion of the unit. If you don't see a blown fuse there, you may want to look behind the drivers seat. That is where you will find the vehicle fuse box. Good Luck.. D

Ben, you are on the right track. To upgrade the breaker, first look at the main house breaker panel and determine if allowing more current through main breaker will be taxing it too highly (will 20 more amps exceed my main breaker limit...what is the main breaker current trip at?) Then look at the wire size leading away from the 40 amp breaker to outside. If it is 6 gage copper or 4 gage copper-clad aluminum wire, you are ok to upgrade. Any smaller wire size could be unhealthy.