SOURCE: oil seal
1. Remove the acorn nut, hex nut, and washer that hold the "planetary" agitator section on the transmission shaft.
2. Remove the trim ring (if any) around the same.
3. The agitator section should now be able to be worked free.
4. Remove the retainer clip on the top of the agitator shaft. (Some models have a pair of hex nuts here; if so, remove those.)
5. Pry the gear up and off the shaft. Remove the square key from the shaft keyway at the same time.
6. Tap gently on the top of the agitator shaft to drive it out from the bearings and grease seal.
7. Recommend removing and replacing the top bearing at this time; it's inexpensive to replace, if you're in this deep.
8. Use a suitable diameter piece of round steel stock to drive out the lower bearing and oil seal. I don't recommend using the agitator shaft.
9. Clean thoroughly, insert a new bottom bearing and oil seal, drive in place with a rubber mallet.
10. Replace agitator shaft through oil seal and bearing, tap gently into place.
11. Fill cavity with approved lubricant. I use USP-grade mineral oil, as it is food-safe and provides satisfactory lubricity.
11. Install top bearing, tap gently into place.
12. Reverse steps 5-1 to reassemble.
SOURCE: HOBART 60 QT MIXER MAKES STRANGE SOUND
could be your contactor bad chattering and it will make a hum to for a spit second
SOURCE: motor not spinning in hobart 60 qt mixer
Hi, if you ruled out the gear box as a problem And it was running fine and then stopped you have a electrical issue. Start out testing the capacitors. If it did this the first time you hooked it up you probably have crossed a high leg with a the ground. The start capacitor in the mixer much match your power supply. In other words if your machine is 200 volt 1 ph. And you have 220 going to it with out a step down in place your capacitor is not closing . Again this is all based on the fact that the gear box has been eliminated a possible culprit.
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