My bostitch oil free air compressor will not cut off at the factory setting of 150 psi what can I do

This is an easy fix.. you need an new safety valve or a new switch.

If the safety valve releases pressure before the max pressure replace it.
the switch has a cut in pressure of 120 psi (this means compressor will start when pressure falls to 120 psi.
The cut off pressure is 150 psi. This means the unit will shut off at 150 psi.
You need to watch supply pressure to see if it exceeds 150 psi. If it does replace switch.


Safety Valve Part Number:AB-9415379
Pressure Switch Part Number:AB-9415626

It should take 2 minutes to go from 0 psi to 100 psi
If it is taking longer, there may a leak in the discharge line between the pump and the tank, or the unloader tubing.
There could be a problem with the valves, piston rings.

check for any air leaks and fix as needed. then look for oil coming from cylinder heads , if oil is coming from heads you have blown head gaskets ,it wont build pressure like this. you might also check the pop off valve to be blown open. push the pin in and see if air starts to build up then. If so get a new valve.also check the drain valve under the tank and make sure its closed.

nothing
it is the regulator that is faulty

The maximum pressure on most small compressors is 10 bar or 1000kpa which is about 145 psi in the old language most safety valves are set to 150 psi. I suggest you get some one to reduce the pressure switch setting. Running a compressor at elevated pressures does not give you any more air. A reasonable pressure for small compressors is 120 psi

First; most repair centers, mine included, are reluctant to instruct users on how to adjust compressor settings because of the dangers of setting levels to high and risking tank ruptures. 15 to 20 psi is considered explosive pressures so when you are dealing with 135 to 150 psi or higher, you have to be able to understand and respect the dangers.
Second; if your compressor was working properly and now isn't and no one changed the setting of the pressure switch, it is more likely you need to replace the switch. If the spring or other mechanisms that controls the pressure the switch turns the motor off and on are damaged or broken they need to be replaced.
Lastly; at your own risk, most pressure switches have directions inside the cover on how to adjust the cut-in and cut-out pressures. I have never seen one that requires special tools, usually a screw driver or nut drive will turn the adjustment screw. When adjusting the screw, turn the screw in half turn steps and cycle the motor at least twice between adjustments to check where the switch is cutting in and out. If your switch does in fact require a special tool you will have to see if it is something the repair center can sell you or take/ship the compressor to them for repair.

If it's pumping up to 135 psi, shutting off and then restarts at the same pressure point since it was new, the pressure switch may have been set low at the factory. I don't know which model you have but most pressure switches have directions inside their cover as to how to adjust the cut-out and cut-in pressures. Be careful doing this, overpressuring the tank is dangerous. There is an adjustment screw or bolt that changes the pressure on the switch spring. Some pressure switches have two screws, one for cut-in and one for cut-out pressure. A few have one that adjust both pressures. If you do adjust the cut-in/cut-out levels, do it slowly and cycle the motor a couple times between each adjustment to see where it turns off and on. If the compressor is doing what you want it to, only pumping to 135 psi, it will live longer than if you adjust it up to 150 psi. Those last 15 psi of air are hard to get and will mean the motor will be running longer and more heat will be building up in the head.

http://www.docstoc.com/docs/56973363/Factory-Reconditioned-Porter-Cable-C2002R-Oil-Free-UMC-Pancake-Compressor
Usually when buying new/reconditioned it doesn't have the female coupling installed.You need to buy it separate and a roll of Teflon tape.On your model its to the right of the psi adjustment knob.Take a look at the link,it connect to the 2 brass peices on the front right.Good luck.

You may have a problem still related to the original reason it was reconditioned.

However, you should have a regulator that you set to the tank pressure you want to maintain. Most have a tool regulator as well and 40 psi sounds like that is what it is set for.

If you do have a tank pressure regulator and it is still not charging above 40 psi, then either take it back or pick up a new regulator for under $20 at Home Depot and replace the gauge you have now.

Also, sometimes the gauge will have a needle tilted so that one end presses against the glass, and if you tap the glass hard with your finger it will move on around to the correct pressure.

Finally, if you are not experienced with small compressors, look under your gauge and see if there is not a black knob that pulls out and pushes in to turn and change the pressure.

Sirwriter

Generally, the pressure switch is not adjusted more than once or twice in the life of the compressor since the discharge pressure can be adjusted with pressure regulator. However the life of the compressor can be increased if lower pressure settings are maintained. Your pressure switch was set at the factory to a setting of about 120 - 150. If your cutout pressure is higher than 150 surely lower.
STEP 1: Turn Main Calibration Screw ( center screw with large spring) clockwise to increase pressure and turn counter-clockwise to decrease pressure.

STEP 2: Turn Differential Pressure Screw (small spring) clockwise to decrease cut-in pressure and
turn counter-clockwise to increase cut-in pressure.

Differential Pressure is defined as the difference between cut-out and cut-in pressure. There should be about 7 to 12 psi difference between cut-out and cut-in.
In our shop we rarely adjust more than a couple of turns because these switches are sensitive.
Good Luck and please post again if you have other concerns about your compressor.