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? 3:11 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wozSufvtbfE
May 30, 2012 - Uploaded by iScaper1
Tips for removing and cleaning the air filter on a Stihl MS250chainsaw. ... A very dirty air cleaner, a little maintenance can help them live longer ... Poulan Chainsaw Review- Should youbuy one? ... chainsawbars.co.uk - cleaning the air filter andchanging spark plug ... Get video URL at current time.
? 3:21 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXlm-o8sD6A
Jul 17, 2012 - Uploaded by conan6868
Repairing oil tank. ... Could You Fix This Mini Mac Chain Saw! ...The chainsaw guy takes the McCulloch Mini Mac ChainsawChallenge 9 23.
Mucculloch 3516 chain saw assembly - YouTube? 49:25https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xm4YL3pDG8cJan 20, 2014 - Uploaded by Dragracer64In this video I take a box of dirty chain saw parts that has been sitting in my attic for about 12 ... Is there supposed to be a filteron the line in the chain oil tank? .... How to replace MCCULLOCH chainsaw MAC 3516 fuel line.How to replace MCCULLOCH chainsaw MAC 3516 fuel line ...? 1:32https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMjXYKza-NYJan 13, 2013 - Uploaded by Lambda ITCMCCULLOCH chain saw MAC 3516 chainsaw fuel line replacement. Three fuel lines. 1) First line in the tank ...
Carburetor Adjustment There are no hard and fast settings. A good initial starting point for the "H" and "L" needle valves are 1.5 turns CCW from lightly seated. The "T" adjustment enters here (idle speed) and there is no initial setting without a tachometer, depending on age of your saw there may not be any initial "T" setting. The "L" needle is primarily idle performance (not speed) and acceleration to full throttle. The "H" is mostly performance at speed, but all are interconnected.
Start with a fresh mix of fuel. Put ALL of the old mix in any 4 cycle engine and start new. I suggest 50:1 regardless of what your manual says. • CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; once marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly. • Clean the air filter; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run. • Clean the spark arrestor and muffler; if the saw cannot exhale it cannot inhale. Now we adjust for performance. The best performance adjustment procedure I have found follows. Madsens Shop & Supply, Inc. Carburetor adjustment (All saws homeowner and professional are the same) http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm Read step 4 (allow it warm before making adjustments). • There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full - may not be highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too. I am going to inject a little philosophy here. Undetected air leaks and defective fuel delivery systems account for most chainsaw failures. Constant adjustment of needle valves can easily camouflage more serious problems that result in burning up your saw. A sudden need for an adjustment is often indicative of a larger problem. If push comes to shove a local saw shop (I prefer Stihl mechanics and do not own a Stihl) should be considered.
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck. Lou Thank You for using FixYa.
A typical fuel system and a couple of tips follow: http://www.fixya.com/support/r3706813-2_cycle_fuel_system_repair If properly plumbed your saw will run with the carburetor to primer hose capped off. If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH Lou
Extremely difficult! If the oil pump or worm gear is defective it may be the most difficult saw to repair. This is the only saw I have seen with the oiler mounted behind the fly wheel.
Your basic model number is 600035. There are 11-, 21-, and 22- prefixes used with 600035s. There are also a ton of suffixes with the 600035s. I think the suffix is on your saw immediately after the basic model number somewhere (usually on bottom of older Macs along with the serial number. The dash of the serial on older Macs is the prefix). I must defer to you to find your exact IPL, here: McCulloch IPLs http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/McCulloch/139.59.html
I chose this one as an example "22-600035-58" for an IPL http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/MCC/22-600035-58-Mac-3516-IPL-211229-01/139.22-600035-58-Mac-3516-IPL-211229-01.1.59.1.html The "Powerhead Assembly" lists an oil pump (1) and a worm gear (10). These are the most common failure on most saws but Macs have many more hoses than most. There are oiler components on at least 2 different details. It appears the oil pump is on the starter side of the engine. and you may need to remove the fly wheel for access. I would examine every connection and perhaps try the "Kit Gear/Plunger Assembly" before trying to access the oil pump and gear. Oil System Plugged.
Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up. If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
Work your way through the linkage cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear. Please see the IPL to aid in oiler component identification.
You can reply below with any questions. I hope you found this most helpful. Good Luck Lou If you opt to remove the fly wheel PLEASE reply to me first. I can probably save you a couple of headaches and may prevent component breakage.
Hello Eric, You can get an Oregon brand bar and chain that will work perfectly on your Mac 3516. I have this same chainsaw and keep a spare bar and chain, so I can quickly swap them out, should they get damaged, etc.
The Oregon bar and chain part numbers are as follows:
#100457 (Bar & chain combo pack)
You can also find these sold at most Home Depot, Lowe's and other hardware stores that carry chainsaws, as Oregon makes their replacement bar and chains to fit all the major brands available.
Unless your existing bar and chain are completely galled up, scored or bent/busted beyond repair, I would find a small engine repair shop or local hardware store that sharpens chainsaw cutting chains, (True Value and Ace do it in our area) and see if they can sharpen and true up the bar. The price for this is typically about 1/3 to 1/2 the price of a new chain and bar set, and worth having a spare around.
I also like having that extra aleady to use (sharp) chain, so when a neighbor borrows my saw and invariably lets the chainsaw go into the dirt (that'll dull the chain so fast!). I will always be able to use my saw, when I need to, without having to run out and get a replacement, or spend 15 minutes having to sharpen it by hand, etc.
I hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!
The hose in the tank with the filter on the free end connects directly to the carburetor input connection.
If the saw is equipped with a primer bulb, an output line from the carburetor connects to the suction side of the primer (once the bulb is collapsed it draws fuel from the tank through the carburetor to refill as it inflates).
The pressure side of the primer returns displaced fuel to the tank as it is depressed.
Take lots of notes and a few digital photographs to help with reassembly. HTH Lou
The hose in the tank with the filter on the free end connects directly to the carburetor input connection.
If the saw is equipped with a primer bulb, the output line from the carburetor connects to the suction side of the primer (once the bulb is collapsed it draws fuel from the tank through the carburetor to refill as it inflates).
The pressure side of the primer returns displaced fuel to the tank as it is depressed.
Take lots of notes and a few digital photographs to help with reassembly. HTH Lou
You have 5 times what was available just a month ago. Good Luck
Check the muffler for plugging of the spark arrestor screen. Go back to original spark plug type. Check the air cleaner. Make sure the chain brake is not dragging in the off position (if equipped). When you had the carburetor apart, did the rubber diaphragm seem stiff? If so, you will need to re-kit the carburetor. It controls the amount of fuel delivered to the jets. Also, make sure the needle valve in the diaphragm chamber is under control.
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