How to change wigwag - Pride Mobility Products GoGo Elite Traveller 4 Wheel Travel Scooter

If I remember correctly, the factory lights are still separate from the wigwag lights. Once the light controller is removed the factory light switch should still operate like normal. You might need to repair the wiring where the light controller was tapped into the lighting, but just like the headlights operating when the unit was a patrol vehicle.

hi Dorothy, that fault is related to the wigwag not either dead center or a wiring fault related to that, the controller checks that wigwag lever (throttle lever) is not being pressed otherwise it will shoot forward or backwards, does the wigwag lever appear loose ?

the lever can become loose so the centre stem moves off center, that has a slot if you look under rhe throttle, it should be dead center when you sit on the scooter.

regards
www.gewizrepairs.co.uk

hi John, have the brushes been checked making sure they are not sticking inside the motor brush holder,

At worse it could be the wigwag pot, try moving the wigwag lever in the upwards or downwards direction as you go forward , be gentle to see whether that improves things, if it does , you require a new throttle pot.

Regards
Rob

The spring that applies tension on the wigwag often breaks. After removing the shroud to gain access to the throttle, back off the two allen screws (2mm) and pull off the throttle handles, remove the nut in order to replace the spring. The cost of the spring is about $4.00 compared to the complete throttle at about $250.00.

The wig-wag can be tested with an ohm or multimeter. The wigwag plug must be disconnected in the tiller console or at the split-frame connector. Speed dial must be turned up all the way. Measure the wigwag with the ohm meter from the outer most tabs. It should read 5,000 ohms +/- 5%. Then measure center tab to either outer tab. When in "neutral" position it should read 2,500 ohms +/- 10%. If the wigwag is in tolerance I would have the batteries and battery harnesses checked next. Each battery should be charged and tested by a battery shop. These should be 12volt 18-35amp hour batteries.
If the batteries test fine then you have a wiring issue where a loose or corroded wire is dropping voltage under load. Sometimes these types of "bad" connections will cause the wire/connector to become warm or even discolor the connector/wire.
Best regards.

Hello,

This brings me back a few years i have not seen a belt drive Whirpool in like forever. Some of the things to check are;

A broken white wire at the wigwag..the oscillitaing action of the wigwag flexs the wire and over a period of time that wire could break

the wigwag itself ...use a multimeter set to measure ohms of resistiance,each coil on the wigwag should have appx. 840 ohms if the coils are good

a loose or streched belt...when pushing on it their should be no more than a 1/2 inch of movement in it(if much more the belt should be replaced)

bent plungers that link the wigwag to the bars on the transmission....both plungers should be straight

that the notches on the bars on the transmission are square and rounded at the corners

That is what i can think of right now. Good luck i hope ya can fix that and keep that nearly antique washer going.


GENE

Hello.

WOW you have a old washer its been a few years since i even heard "wigwag"
now then their are a few possiblities;

1) the belt is loose/streched..is their more than a 1/2inch play in it...if yes try adjusting it by loosing top bolt on motor bracket and tighten belt by using hammer and push motor bracket to the left

2) are the plungers on the wigwag straight..if they are bent the plungers need replacing

3) is a wire on the wigwag broken..after years of "oscillating" a wire will break..the side with the red and white wire is for the spin

4) the lever that is pulled by the red wire side of the wigwag hanging up..check spring on back part of transmission to be good and pulling down the plate it attaches to when wigwag has positioned that lever in spin position

5) finally..when the above mentioned lever is in spin position( lever moves toward the rear) is the pulley above and in the center of the transmission spinning free or is it turning...if it spins free when lever is set to spin it should not spin free but move the tub to spin

Here are the part numbers;

BELT...95405

WIGWAG w/the plungers...89814

SPIN TUBE...285897

Thanks for taking me down a trip on memeory lane..its been since 1987 that Whirlpool has made a washer with a belt all are direct drive and its been a few years (several) since i have worked on on as "vintage" as the one you have...but like riding a bicycle i have never forgot :)

GENE

check underneath the washer for a relay called wigwag. It changes the gear in transmition which allows the spin cycle and rinse to spin. Very easy fix if this is the problem, About $15.00 part and 10 minute change

Sounds to me like your WigWag switch is bad. I know name sounds funny, but it is the switch that makes it go back and forth (WigWag) and agitate. It is a small unit with two wires going to it. Usually about in the center if looking from under the machine.

To activate factory wigwags in a 2007/2008 Police Dodge Charger, connect pin 1 of the 24way upfitter connector found at the console (near the radio) to battery voltage -- the 47k series resistor is only required for MY2006.

That connection causes the VSIM module (located under the AM/FM radio) to send a CAN message to the FrontControlModule, where the front control module drives the headlights in the wigwag mode.

Pin 2 of the upfitter connector does the rear wigwags.

Some of the pinout of the 2008 upfitter connector from the VSIM to the console is different than 2006/2007 -- a Chrysler harness booboo for 2008.

Note that the VSIM (also known as PTIM) module is only on factory police Chargers -- civilian cars do not have this module.