After we had a tech to fix the glass top and one burner, the f1:e1 code came out and kept beeping. I was told it could be the control board problem. Could it be loosen wiring problem too?

Based on your question that the right front burner of your Schott Ceran glass cooktop is not working, here are some steps you can try to troubleshoot the issue:

1. Check the power supply: Make sure that the cooktop is properly connected to a power source and that the circuit breaker or fuse is not tripped. If the circuit breaker is tripped, reset it and try turning on the burner again.
2. Check the burner control switch: The burner control switch regulates the power to the burner. Check if the switch is loose, damaged, or defective. You can test the switch for continuity with a multimeter to determine if it is functioning properly.
3. Check the heating element: If the burner control switch is not the problem, the issue may be with the heating element. Check the element for visible damage, such as cracks, burn marks, or discoloration. If you see any damage, the element may need to be replaced.
4. Check the wiring: Check the wiring connections between the burner control switch and the heating element. If any of the connections are loose or damaged, this may be causing the issue.
5. Test with a different burner: If you have multiple burners on your cooktop, try testing the right front burner with a different control switch or heating element to determine if the issue is with the burner or another component.

The above are basic means of troubleshooting, the following below will add more to the solution above;

Check the control board: The control board is responsible for sending power to the heating elements. Check the control board for any signs of damage or burning, and test it for continuity using a multimeter.

Check the thermal fuse: The thermal fuse is a safety device that cuts off power to the heating elements if they overheat. Check the thermal fuse with a multimeter to see if it has blown. If it has, you will need to replace it.

Check the switch relay: The switch relay is another component that can cause the burner to not work. Check the switch relay for any signs of damage, and test it with a multimeter to see if it is functioning properly.

Test the voltage supply: Use a multimeter to test the voltage supply to the burner. If there is no voltage, this could indicate a problem with the control board, thermal fuse, or switch relay.

Check for loose connections: Inspect all wiring connections between the control board, switch relay, and heating element. Loose or damaged connections can cause the burner to not work.

Call the repair company to come back. It's possible he didn't hook something up right.

...

Sounds like the thermostat maybe defective.

try resetting the 40 amp double breaker in the panel

Hi,
Here below we have aprocedure to try to see if you can save the ERC.
F1 touch pad / ERC test
This simple test will help determine
whether the ERC (Electronic Range Control or Clock) or the touch pad is
defective when F1 error code is present.

Note: Some models
incorporate the touch pad in to the ERC as a single assembly, in which case this
test is not necessary. Simply replace the ERC (Clock).

Warning: If
you feel in any way uncomfortable performing this test or making this repair,
please contact a qualified appliance repair technician.

1. Disconnect
power to the range (unplug the range power cord or turn the power off to the
range at the circuit breaker). It is very important that the power to the range
has been disconnected, so please double check before continuing.
2. Gain
access inside the control panel.
3. Disconnect the touch pad (also called
keypad or membrane switch) ribbon from the ERC.
4. Make sure there are no
lose wires, or anything else that may cause a short when power is turned back
on. Assemble the control panel back the way it was.
5. Turn the power back
on.
6. Wait for at least one hour to see if the F1 code comes back (usually
accompanied by a beeping sound).
7. If F1 comes back, replace the ERC. If it
does not, replace the touch pad.

Hello- I would stop using that burner immediately, it is possible that there is an electrical short either in the burner or the burner switch. This could potentially cause fire or a shock. You will need to have a Tech out to diagnose the problem. Good luck, best regards.

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

It sounds like the burner needs to be replaced. When they burn out sometimes they short out to ground. The cooktop will have to be removed from the counter and the glass top opened. You will probably be able to see where the element is burned out. Replace it and you should be fine. If it is too expensive to fix just disconnect the wires to the burner where they attach to the control . Then you can use the remaining burners. I really don't know what a replacement burner costs. An open coil is around $30.

F1 for Magic Chef means there is a problem with the control board or the touch pad to the board.  I would need the entire model # on sticker on the oven to see what parts are on this one.  If the touch pad is separate it will have a ribbon that goes from it to the board.  Unplug that ribbon, if the code goes away then the touchpad is the problem.  If the code stays with the ribbon unplugged then the control board is bad.  Make sure power is off to unit when touching anything!