Had it fitted today it turn on but when i go to turn a ring on and turn the plus or minus for up and down heat it trips the electric is it wired correctly

Bad switch or bad heating element, or, less likely, a loose wire.

SEE PICS Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage
ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at the fusebox orbreaker panel to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity. Test the resistance of the heating element using a multi meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continui

hello after looking at your wiring diagram the only thing it can be is a blown breaker in your home. half of it works off 120v of the 240v circuit and the heating elements off the other 120v line. so you are only getting half the power to your unit. turn the breakers off and on see if maybe it just tripped.but its not the cooktop. hope this helps please dont forget to rate me thanks ken

When you used all elements the power supply wire have been
gone to the maximum current absorbed so to the maximum heat. When the cook top
is new it can withstand this heat but due to long time used now you have burned
out wires and probably to junction point. So now the power supply wire is
burned and is open circuit thus not any power to the heater. The wires have
just open circuit and they don't touch each other or the metal body of the cook
top that is why you don't have the circuit breaker fuse to trip off. So now you
need to disassemble the cook top and you will very easily find the burn point
which should be melded and burned black and replace all parts that they have
been burned with new one.

Here is the link where you find the parts layout, the wiring
diagram and also order any parts you might need.

Also just for safety, avoid to use all four heater at the
same time in the future.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5170741&diagram_id=28477270#d28477270

Likely a short in the junction box. Turn off the breaker and open the junction box for inspection. Problem is likely at the cooktop end of the feed from the breaker.

Check voltage at the junction. Should one side of the corcuit be dead, turn off power and call an electrician as the wiring probably has had a short due to staple or nail penetration and would be a fir hazard. Call an electrician if this is the case.

It's possible that one of the burners stay on for a long time, which cause one of the wires to overheat, breaking the connection and touching the body of the unit, please turn the breaker off and check for a loose connection, replace the wiring if you feel confortable doing it yourself or contact a technician.

turn the breaker off and check your connections on the element
You obviously have a wire touching the oven

Sounds like breaker tripped so no 220 to unit. Reset breaker. The burner switch you first turned on probably blew out and needs replacing, so don't turn it on again. If all else works ok, then that is it. Unless you are handy you may want to call the repair man.

the 'L' means locked - to unlock turn on hob, hold down front right hand side plate control and minus botton to unlock - see manuals for further details

you have a short in the ignition switches. these are located at the base of every stem under the knobs. In order to get to them you have to remove the entire cooktop, which entails removing all of the burners. The switches are run in parallel on a single harness.