My windage has bottomed out to the left, and I still need 6 more inches to zero.

from my experience owning a bar they tend to lose accuracy badly after a lot of rounds are put through them especially if they are shot rapid fire style allot ( the barrel gets very hot and i am also not impressed with how the barrel is attached to the receiver) i shot mine until it just would not shoot accurately at all. (i sold it). its possible that your scope or mounts are loose defective or there may be a screw that may be broken under the mounts that you cant see.

1. Insert the Bore Stud into the Stanchion while aligning the arrows as shows. Insert the assembled scope guide into the muzzle of your rifle with the grid pattern upright. 2. Select the Aperture Cap that fits your objective rim. Place it over the objective end of your rifle scope and press until it fits flatly against the rim. 3. Using the Adjustable Scale measure the top of your rifle scope tube to the center of the rifle bore as follows: Open the rifle breach. Rest the upper arm of the scale on the scope tube before or behind the windage and elevation turrets. The scale markings should be facing towards you reading vertically and ascending from bottom to top. Slide the lower end of the scale up or down until it is touching the center point of the bore. On center fire rifles the center point will be the firing pin. On rimfire models the center will be the shell extractor. Read the number that corresponds to the indicator marked "CF". Make a note of the reading. 4. Aim the rifle toward a light, flatly lit area such as a wall or open sky. Caution: Do Not Look At The Sun As Permanent Eye Injury Could Result. 5. While keeping the riflescope at the right distance to see the full field of view, sight through it on the grid pattern. Move the stanchion right or left until the bold centerline is parallel to the vertical reticule wire. Turn the windage dial right or left until the vertical reticule is aligned with the grid centerline. 6. Use the reading from the scale to align the horizontal reticule wire. Find the numbered horizontal grid line that corresponds to the number on the scale. Turn the elevation dial right or left until the horizontal reticule wire aligns with this corresponding grid line. 7. To make your final zeroing adjustments remove the scope guide from the bore of your rifle. WARNING: FIREING YOUR RIFLE WITHOUT REMOVING THE SCOPE GUIDE MAY CAUSE DAMAGE TO YOUR RIFLE AND OR CAUSE YOU INJURY At a range or other safe area test fire a group of three rounds of the same type ammunition at a target at least 50 yards away. Refine your scope alignment by adjusting the windage and elevation dials. Move to your desired distance from the target and test fire another group and make your final windage and elevation adjustments. 8. Restore the stud tension by pressing the end of the spring.

this is a scope mount fault,,its not brilled out right,,,,you could try packing some 35mm film at the side of the scope on the eye end to push the scope across to get more windage
pack the left side!

You may try to bore sight it first. Pull the bolt and setting the gun on a good rest sight thru the barrel at a dot on the wall within ten feet. Then adjust the scope to that dot. As you adjust the scope tap the bore of the scope with a screw driver handle, tap it after each adjustment not hard, but enough to give it a sharp jolt. Once you are close here, move out to the range and shoot at 15 yards. Using a rest, again tap the scope after each adjustment. Then move out to 50 yards and you will want to be shooting high 1.5 to 2 inches here. Shoot slow keep the barrel cool and try for 2 shot groups till you have got the scope dialed in. Then move out to 100 yards for your preference of zero. Remember use the same ammo you will hunt with or at least the same bullet weight. If you can't get her to get on paper you can try to loosen the scope in the rings, one at the time once the gun is a little warm. Loosen the barrel ring first then snug it back down and then the receiver ring. If your group moved now, she was in a bind due to a cold gun at set up / installation.

GET A SET OF MILLET RINGS. THEY CAN BE SET UP FOR THE LATERAL MOVEMENT YOU NEED TO ZERO YOUR SCOPE TO THE RIFLE.

Sounds like you want to "re-sight" in your rifle. Make sure mounts are okay and tight. Look down barrel and then thru scope and eyeball windage and elevation adjustments so the scope seems to be fairly in line.

Clean barrel if it needs it.

For basic sight in, start at 25 yards with a large(3 to 4 feet) cardboard or wood backdrop around target (bullseye). Fire at target. Once done, look through scope and position rifle such that the shot mark you created is dead zero. Hold rifle very steady and you or buddy move windage and elevation adjustments until scope moves dead zero back toward original target (bullseye). Fine tune from there. Air cool rifle between rounds. Once dead eye, fire another round or two to check grouping. Check your ballistics (sometimes on ammo box) to see how height at 25 yards affects your desired dead on target (100 yards, 150 yards, 250 yards etc.). Adjust accordingly. Example: you may need to sight in at an inch high at 25 yards, depending on your dead on target distance..

Always remove sling from barrel when sighting in.

Try to sight in at similar temperature as you intended shooting temperatures, if possible.

If not black powder, avoid cleaning barrel between sight in and hunt/competition unless you note bad buildup inside.

If you change ammo, understand that that may affect performance. Once a preferred ammo is found, some even try to buy a decent quantity with the same lot number on the boxes if storage allows for such.

I doubt if there is anything wrong with your scope.
The Baraska model A10810 Reticle adjustments are 1/8 ( 1/8 inch) MOA (minute of angle).
For instance, Look at the top turret (The ELEVATION Adjustment Knob). You will see that there are little vertical 'hashmarks' all the way around the knob starting with a '0' then a series of the verticle hashmarks, then a '1' and another series of the marks, then a '2' and so on. YOUR scope will have 8 of those vertical 'hashmarks' between each 'number'. These little 'hashmarks are referred to as 'Clicks' or 'Minute of Angle' adjustments.
Now imagine that you are set up on the 100 yard line and you have fired a round at your target, say a one inch diameter dot or any size for that matter, and the bullet strike was one (1) inch LOW and two (2) inches to the RIGHT and of course you now want your next round to impact in the target dot.
To bring your bullets point of impact UP to coincide with your point of aim (you have your 'crosshairs or RETICLES centered on the dot), you will be turning the TOP adjustment knob CLOCKWISE, ONE 'click' at a time. EACH one of those 'Clicks' will actually move the horizontal Reticle UP (Elevation) or DOWN 1/8 of an inch at a time. If the bullets point of impact was 1 inch LOW, you would need to turn the adjustment knob clockwise Eight (8) clicks which will equal ONE (1) inch.
Now you must adjust the knob on the RIGHT side of the scope. This one is the WINDAGE Adjustment knob which controls the VERTICAL Reticle and moves the point of impact Right or Left. This knob will also have the 'hashmark' increments around its perimeter and like the Elevation knob each 'Click' will move the Reticle 1/8 of an inch but in this case the Reticle and point of impact moves Right or Left.
Remember the bullets point of impact was 2 inches to the RIGHT. This means you must adjust the Reticle or point of impact to the LEFT so that your point of impact will coincide with your point of aim and will be in the target dot. Turn the adjustment knob COUNTER CLOCKWISE Sixteen (16) Clicks. Keeping your POINT of AIM (crosshairs centered on the dot), your next round should be inside the dot and you can then fine tune it from there.
As you can see from this example, the Reticle (crosshairs)and point of impact does not travel very far at all inside your scope at the 100 yard distance so it is not hard to imagine that you thought they were not adjusting to get you on target, when in fact they WERE adjusting, but in tiny increments.
Now, as you create more distance between you and your target, these 'tiny' increments and point of impact will be larger as your distance increases. For example, at 200 YARDS each 'click' will move your Point Of Impact 1/4 of an inch right,left,up, or down. So if your bullet point of impact was one (1) inch low from the 200 yd line you would adjust your Elevation Reticle 4 Clicks to raise your point of impact in order to be on target. At the 300 yd line each Click will adjust the point of impact up,down,right or left, ONE (1) inch.
If you wish, I would be happy to walk you through the 'ZEROing In' of your scope and rifle even if you do not have a Zero Bore Scope. With-in about 9 rounds you can be hitting where you are aiming instead of 'chasing' bullet holes all over the paper.
If you are interested, respond back and I will be glad to assist you. Enjoy. :)

First, adjust wind-age and elevation to center or zero position. Remove your scope from the gun and make sure that the scope mounts are aligned, this is critical. Purchase an alignment tool is necessary. Then remount the scope. The scope should seat in the mounts without binding. If it does bind, the mounts are not aligned.
Start sighting in at close range,10 to 30 yards, then move out to 100 yards.

Keep in mind Diane this is for a set distance. if you are taking a shot at a target further than your are set for (ie a target you wont get 3 shots @) remember how the bullet is travelling as it goes down range

one idea would be to set your rifle up down range and zero it in on a target (preferably paper) now adjust 1 MOA (try and have target @ 100 yards and 200 yards)

see how far the bullet moves for each moa adjustment. then check it against the next range.

this should remain constant @ a set number of inches per 100 yards.

so if you zero in @ 100 yards and then move 1 moa any direction and it adjusts (lets say and hope it is 1.047 inches") then you do the same for 200 yards. it should be twice as much movement. ie 2.094"

once you know what 1 moa represents on your scope you can adjust alot more accurately.

REMEBER the total inches of movement / adjustment per MOA is directly related to range (a precise range helps in shooting) so if your squirrel is 150 yards and your first shot is off 9" to adjust you divide 9" by the inches per moa so 1.5 (150 yards /100) X (Inches per 100 yards per moa you measured hopefully 1.047") its 9" divided by 2x1.047 = 9" / 2.094 = 4.29799

this number needs to be rounded to the nearest click on your scope (most are 1/4 MOA scopes and you can tell by looking at how many clicks/lines are inbewteen each large number on your windage and elevation dials

so to turn this into an adjustment we round 4.29799 to 4.25 which is 4.25 MOA or 17 clicks on a 1/4 min scope.

GL and any questions just post and ill help

not please rate this as fixya :)

Note i can provide EXACT information that would allow you to determine range, and windage and elevation adjustments by looking through scope and estimating range
then factoring in weather variables. NOTE you hafta enjoy math or just want to know how to shoot really well. :)

1. Insert the Bore Stud into the Stanchion while aligning the arrows as shows. Insert the assembled scope guide into the muzzle of your rifle with the grid pattern upright.

2. Select the Aperture Cap that fits your objective rim. Place it over the objective end of your rifle scope and press until it fits flatly against the rim.

3. Using the Adjustable Scale measure the top of your rifle scope tube to the center of the rifle bore as follows: Open the rifle breach. Rest the upper arm of the scale on the scope tube before or behind the windage and elevation turrets. The scale markings should be facing towards you reading vertically and ascending from bottom to top. Slide the lower end of the scale up or down until it is touching the center point of the bore. On center fire rifles the center point will be the firing pin. On rimfire models the center will be the shell extractor. Read the number that corresponds to the indicator marked "CF". Make a note of the reading.

4. Aim the rifle toward a light, flatly lit area such as a wall or open sky. Caution: Do Not Look At The Sun As Permanent Eye Injury Could Result.

5. While keeping the riflescope at the right distance to see the full field of view, sight through it on the grid pattern. Move the stanchion right or left until the bold centerline is parallel to the vertical reticule wire. Turn the windage dial right or left until the vertical reticule is aligned with the grid centerline.

6. Use the reading from the scale to align the horizontal reticule wire. Find the numbered horizontal grid line that corresponds to the number on the scale. Turn the elevation dial right or left until the horizontal reticule wire aligns with this corresponding grid line.

7. To make your final zeroing adjustments remove the scope guide from the bore of your rifle.

WARNING: FIREING YOUR RIFLE WITHOUT REMOVING THE SCOPE GUIDE MAY CAUSE DAMAGE TO YOUR RIFLE AND OR CAUSE YOU INJURY

At a range or other safe area test fire a group of three rounds of the same type ammunition at a target at least 50 yards away. Refine your scope alignment by adjusting the windage and elevation dials. Move to your desired distance from the target and test fire another group and make your final windage and elevation adjustments.

8. Restore the stud tension by pressing the end of the spring.