Replaced heating element now I get error E61, I ohmed out the thermostat on top of heating element seem to be ok

thermal cutout switch usually attached next to the element (little round thing riveted either side)

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!!

The top thermostat controls your water heater meaning if it is not working you wont have any hot water. If the top t-stat needs to be reset by pushing button in then check the element with POWER OFF and remove wires from element. check ohms should be around 12 to 19 ohms. If ok then reconnect wires and check amps. turn on power and use clamp on meter for amps. 15 to 20 amps should be ok. if not drain heater and pull out element. while you are at it drain all the water and pull lower element. if replaced and you have some hot water then quickly cool or cold then you have a broken dip tube located under the cold side of the supply line. they are cheap and easy to replace. I hope this helps.

check all wiring connections, if ok ohm out oven thermostat, if thermostat ok, ohm out oven elements and if ok, check voltage at oven elements. isolate problem.

Hi Tom,

I'm not Geno-- But maybe I can pick up where he left off?

First you say you did a continuity test on the heater elements-- What was the Ohms on each?

Now to the Voltage measurements:
You say you have voltage to the upper-- but not the lower--
That is normal on a cold tank-- That way you can get HOT water faster, that waiting for the whole tank to heat (as from the bottom element-- Make sense?

Until we know if the elements are OK-- the voltage checks are a bit pre-mature.

So-- With power shut OFF, and the wires lifted from the heating elements,
What are the ohms across the heater elements themselves?
(It should be low-- in the 3 or 4 ohms?-- but NOT OPEN! (which is infinity..)

What do you get?

Mack B

Hi.

There is either a problem with the thermostats that turn off the heating element, or the heating element is plugged (elements has contact to ground and stays always on).

Heating element and thermostats are tested reading Ohms with a multimeter set at Rx1. If the circuit is open (Ohms stay infinite), then the part is defective.

If the machine overheated, then the element may be gone again. Test reading Ohms.

Also replace the thermostats (there should be two or three of them), unless the element had a contact, the most common cause for overheating is a shorted thermostat.

You probably have a bad thermal cut-off . This is the small thermostat , located at the top of the element housing . This " thermostat " should read infinate resistance ( no resistance ) . You can put the 2 wires togather , and see if heat comes on . pt # 3399848 . Both thermostats , should read 0 resistance . They are normally closed . The thermal cut-off , will not reset itself , if open . This is a safety t-stat , for when dryer gets too hot , and will have to be replaced .

If heating element was replaced and still no heat, Then what I would do is test the voltage current in the wiring and see if there is actually power to the element.

All parts to make dryer heat are:
heating element
thermal fuse
thermostat
timer

any one of these units can be faulty

Hi,
This is most likely the thermostat switch or possibly the heating element itself.
One or the other is likely needing replacement.
If you are competent at electrical repairs, and have a test meter; Unplug and move to allow access.
Undo rear top screws and remove lid.
Heating element is usualy on top. Disconnect leads and check continuity of switches and element.
Replace switches with similar if either are open circuit. Available as spares from online parts centres.
Heating element should read in the low Ohms - around 20 - 35 Ohms if Ok, otherwise replace.

ONLY ATTEMPT REPAIRS IF COMPETENT (I have to say that)

it sounds like your heating element is gone bad. there is no heat if they burn out or get corroded