Can,t remove the door, right side hinge arm won't come down to allow lock loop to go over the hook. Door is very hard to open all the way.

To remove the door on the LRE3023ST, fully open the door. Pull the hinge locks down towards the door frame to the unlocked position; you may find a flat blade screwdriver helps to lever the locks to start the process. Grasp the door at the sides near the top with both hands. Tilt the door up to about 5 degrees from the closed position. Lift the door up and out until the hinge arm clears the slot where the hinge point locks onto the oven frame on both sides. Put the door down.

This is shown on page 32 of the Owner's Manual. LG has this on the product support page: https://www.lg.com/us/support-product/lg-LRE3023ST#manuals . The direct link to the manual seems to be http://gscs-b2c.lge.com/downloadFile?fileId=KROWM000460684.pdf .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Hi Susan, this is AP! Thank you for your post.

I understand you are having trouble putting the door back on your Frigidaire wall oven. Without knowing exactly how you removed the door I cannot say with certainty how to reattach the door. However, when removing the door did you pull up the lock located on both hinge supports and engage it in the hinge lever hooks? You might have had to apply a little downward pressure on the door to pull the locks fully over the hinge lever hooks. Then grab the door by the sides and pull the bottom of the door up and toward you to disengage the hinge supports. If so, then to reattached the door grab the door by the sides; place the hinge supports in the hinge slots. Open the door to the fully opened position. Disengage the lock from the hinge lever hooks on both sides. Make sure the hinge supports are fully engaged before unlocking the hinge levers. Then close the oven door. There are instructions with images to remove and replace the oven door in the owner's manual. I hope this information proves helpful for you.

1. Remove the pan drawer
2. With someone holding glass up, remove the four screws at the bottom of the door that hold the glass front to the door frame. Gently lower the panel about two inches until the side guides are below the door trim cap. Place out of the way so it doesn't fall over etc.
3. Keeping the door closed, use a spring puller to remove each spring from the hinge. (I made one out of a hanger and a screwdriver. Double thickness at the hook, wrapped and secured around the screwdriver to make a handle) If you do things this way be VERY careful. Be sure it is really strong and is not going to slip. The springs are really under tension and will shrink down about an inch from where they are hooked. (Be sure to support the door so it does not fall open when the springs are removed. It will just make things worse.)
4. After the springs are off gently open the door all of the way.
5. Pull down the hinge locks from the oven body and lift the base of the door up. This will lift the door hinges off of the mounts in the oven frame and allow you to pull the door away from the body.
6. Place the door on your box or workbench etc
7. Remove the two screws on each side of the door that hold the hinges in place. Remove the hinges.

Reinstallation is in reverse.

Hinge repair.
By placing the lower part of the hinge (by the axle) against a ruler I was able to see that the upper section was bent out on each hinge. To correct it I placed the hinge over a pair of 4x4 blocks so that it curved up in the center, and hit it a few times with a hammer. The metal was very responsive and quickly bent back into shape. Be careful here as you don't want to bend them too far. I actually went a little past true, wanting to get a little more push at the top of the door. I placed the hinges directly on the oven to see the difference and they looked good (Be sure to put a piece of cardboard or rag between them and the top to keep them from scratching the surface.

Put the hinges back in the door, screw it together and hang it back on the stove, replace the springs and the glass, and check your fit. Good luck.

I just spent the better part of an hour on this. There is a white flange with two phillips screws. If you take this off it is easier to see the mechanism, but you may be able to get it back on without removing the flange. I removed the flange. The mechanism attached to the door has a hook facing up and a smaller hook facing down. There is a hinged metal bar below this. The bar has a hinged piece with a loop on it. Pull the loop up. Now push down on the piece with the hooks ( it has a spring) and hook the smaller hook on the loop. Do this for both sides. Now the door should slide easily into the slots. Once in the slots, push down on the hook piece and release the loop. Push the loop back in place along the bar. Hopefully this does the trick for you, it did for me.

I just had the same problem. Can you still hear the electric power lock operating and clicking? If yes, it's easy to fix. Get the window down, so you can se the actuator motor through the gap and most likely the metal arm which connects to the lock felt just about half an inch down through the actuators connection. There is a little round hole at the end of the actuator where the arm is supposed to go through. The arm operating the lock is running just below the motor all the way through the door. This happens a lot when the silly plastic connection to the inside door button felt apart and got lost (AMERICAN MADE ...haha). The inside button doesn't operate anymore and the little steel arm is hanging free and is only connected to the actuator motor's arm through a little whole with some rubber. With enough vibration and door slamming it might eventually become loose and fall down, leaving the actuator working but not connected to the lock... Now, just get an old coat hanger, bend the wire like a hook and pull the arm below the actuator towards the front. The door will be unlocked. Now loosen the screws on the door handle and remove the clip on frame around the inside handle. Then carefully pull out the door panel starting at the bottom, then the sides (it's a little hard to get out - be careful not to brake the plastic parts). Once it's loose, push it upwards - it's sitting on the window frame. You can access everything easily now and reconnect the arm through the hole at the end of the actuator. Secure it with some cable binder around the top if you want - if the little connection knob on top of the steel arm is wrapped in a cable binder, it won't fall down again. Check if it works, put it back together, DONE! 

Open the door half way, grasp it firmly and pull as hard as required using a slight side to side motion to release the hinges which are attached to the door.

There are then to nuts on the bottom of the door which when removed allows you to split the door in half.

The hinges have a little lever on them such that they can be jammed open against the door. Once the hinge hook is in the oven housing simply turn the latch the other way, stand back and have a beer.

I had a similar issue as described by mc1bean. One day my Jenair dishwasher door just fell down. The right side spring was fine. The left side spring was still hooked into the door hinge but the cable was laying on the floor in 2 pieces. Over time it wore down and broke. I ordered just the soft drop cable. Now I could not find any installation instructions how to install the soft drop cable. After a few tries I think I got it right. Here are the instructions for hooking up the right side spring with the cable. The spring has to be hooked into the door hinge at the notch closer to the door. The end of the cable with the hook has to be hooked into the other side of the spring. The cable should lead from the bottom around the pulley up to the door hinge again. Now the other end of the cable has to be hung into the door hinge on the notch further away from the door. There is some slack, but it is not quite enough for the cable to get over the pulley when in rest position and undo itself.
I hope this helps others who have the same issue.

You have to get the tension off of the hinge and it will drop right in. The spring loaded arm on the door needs to be drawn back until you can (depending on the style) either lock the u-arm into the notch on the other side of the hinge, or put a small bolt through the aligning holes in the side of the hinge. Once you get the arm straightened out a bit and relieve the spring pressure, you should be able to sit it right in there. Be careful though, that spring is strong.

this can be hard to do as you should have locked the hinges with the door fully opened before taking it off. the hard part now is (with the door off) you have to push the spring loaded hinges down and lock them with small hook located on each hinge once locked the door will go back on the oven. you then open the door fully and unlock the hinges, good luck

open the door on the hook that's still engaged look in the slot you will see a hinge lock using a small screw driver flip it back to lock the hinge then let the door up til the door engages the hinge lock grasp the door on either side and lift up and back to take the door off then pull the other hinge out till you can lock it then grasp both sides put the hinge hooks on the pins in the slot open the door all the way and fold the locks back in the body of the range and close the door