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You have to set up sync. I could write it here but go to shimano.com and there are brilliant videos that talk you through gear sync. Very user friendly. No prior knowledge needed.
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The marks on the chain are for your convenience i.e. no need to count links between crank and cam(s).
The chain markings shift depending on the number of links in the chain and number of teeth on the crank and cam gears, but the number of links (rotational distance) between crank and cams remains the same.
Once you turn the crank it it may take dozens of revolutions to sync back to the marks on the chain, unless you reverse the same number of revolutions.
So if you want to recheck timing after multiple crank revolutions, you need to count links from crank to cam and cam to cam or redo the timing procedure.
Think of it this way... you could stretch a chain around the moon and timing will be good but it will take hundreds of thousands of revolutions before the marks return to earth and likely still not in sync with gear marks.
In the old small block days no one counted links because crank and cam gears were adjacent, in the same planes and timing intuitive.
Well you probably know code 16 means the signals coming from the cam and crank sensors going to the computer are not in sync.
Usually the problem is the timing belt or chain, in your case the engines use a chain.
It could be the chain, or one of the gears, or something else.
there is a gear mechanism inside the shifter that uses a 2:1 ratio and is synced with the spacing of the rear cogs and the width of the chain. You cannot use a 9 or 10 speed rear shifter with 7 or 8 cog gear cluster. They are all integrated. You cannot use a SRAM shifter with Shimano gears, the ratio's are different (as a general rule of thumb, there are exceptions, but why mess with it?) Just remember that the shift, chain and rear cogs all need to be compatible and your drivetrain will work.
needs a gear adjustment hopefully. it might have a stretched chain along with worn cassette teeth. if you have ridden alot of miles in the smaller gears in the rear you might have worn them out. you would have to replace chain and rear sprockets/cassette
You said you adjusted the up limit already. Is it adjusted as far as possible? Usually the screw will become harder to turn. You mention a new door and spring but is the opener the same? My guess is you have a new opener as well and it is out of sync with the trolley. Try turning the up limit back and see if the trolley will stop shorter. If it does, loosen the chain or belt so that you can remove if from the opener's drive gear. Bring the trolley to your stop limit and put the chain/belt back on the gear. Adjust the chain/gear tension and try door operation again. If it was a sync problem, the door should close closer to your limit. Adjust up and down travel as necessary to fine tune it. This worked for me so good luck.
If the ports where the oil comes out aren't clogged, you will have to order a oil pump and then take apart the saw from right underneath the bar. The oil pump is run by a worm gear that strips easily.
Put a vacuum gauge on the intake manifold. (any port)...If the needle is bouncing, likely you have a bent valve. Some engines are "interference" but even those that aren't can still have a valve/piston collision if the chain (usually the top gear) fails. Also check firing order etc.
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