Hobart 24 in. LXIH-3 Built-in Dishwasher Logo

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Olivier Dutil Posted on Feb 29, 2016

Hobart LXIH !The booster is not getting to temperature!

We change the temperature sensor probe , and still nothing! the booster contacter not getting activated! if i push down the contacter i get voltage at the element other wise nothing!

  • Olivier Dutil
    Olivier Dutil Feb 29, 2016

    And the Booster light on the circuit board is on ! and no voltage on the coil of the contacter

×

1 Answer

Edgar Prado

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  • Contributor 30 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 24, 2016
Edgar Prado
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Joined: Apr 12, 2015
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Follow the wires for the contactor coil one of them is connected to a resetable hi limit, press the button on the hi limit to reset

4 Related Answers

paultech8226

  • 109 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 08, 2009

SOURCE: lx30h hobart dw. booster will not turn on. element

The booster heat control circuit is controlled by the relay board. Visually check for loose or burnt relay contacts...
You will see the booster LED light when it calls for heat. Some newer machines have a second high limit on the right hand side of the booster tank.
It may be your control board is configured for low temp with no booster. When you power up, the display should say LX30H. If not
Pull open the upper drawer, place a magnet over the door interlock switch.

CAUTION, 220 volt power is present. be carefull what you touch.

on control board, short J5-1 and J5-2, then power up. You are in factory setup. press select on the control board to see each option on the front panel., press up arrow on control board to step up through options for each step. when done, press the off button on front panel. remove short and start up normally. With the magnet in place, AND THE DOOR CLOSED, run the machine and observe the relay board status lights.
If you want to adjust the temp set points, with the machine off, press and hold the hidden key behind the front panel logo, and press select on the control board.. Or on power up, hold the wask key..Same to adjust options as above. Press off to exit.

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traboH

traboH Mr

  • 27 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 19, 2009

SOURCE: When we push the Off button the machine won't

Try disconnecting power from the unit either at the plug or the breaker if hard wired. Reconnect the power and turn it on. If the water drains, refills and operates as usual, your problem is likely a bad off button on the membrane switch. Let us know

Anonymous

  • 44 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 16, 2010

SOURCE: Good morning, I have 01 Hobart dishwasher AM14, i

294692 for the rinse probe.
"temperature sensor for booster heater"? Do you mean the thermostat? If so, part number is 274161.

Parts breakdowns and part numbers are available at www.hobartservice.com. Click "Parts" on the left, then click "Hobart SmartParts System" on the next page. You'll be asked a series of questions to identify your piece of equipment, and then you'll get a parts list and have links to parts breakdowns for various sections of the machine.

ercupa190

ernesto cuadra

  • 12223 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 23, 2013

SOURCE: Hobart LXiH error E4 AND part makes noise when OFF

test this steps and fix it. GOd bless you

Drain Pump

If the dishwasher is loud during operation, the drain pump might be defective or might have some debris in it. This is a common problem.


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Circulation Pump

If the dishwasher is loud during operation, and the noise is a continuous drone similar in speed to the circulation pump sound, it's likely that the circulation pump motor bearings have failed. Once this happens the circulation pump will have to be replaced, the bearings are not repairable.


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Drain Impeller

If the dishwasher is loud during operation, the drain impeller might be broken, or there might be debris in the pump. Generally, to gain access to the pump the top of the pump housing will have to be removed.


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Pump and Motor Assembly

If the dishwasher is loud the motor bearings, drain impeller or wash impeller might have worn out. All three of these components are part of the pump and motor assembly. It may be possible to replace one of the impellers, but the motor bearings cannot be repaired. In that case the pump and motor assembly will need to be replaced.


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Wash Impeller

The wash impeller is a small, plastic blade. The motor spins the impeller forcing water through the spray arms to clean the dishes. If one or more blades has broken off of the impeller the dishwasher is loud. The impeller can also scrape against the pump housing if it is damaged, warped or bent.


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Circulation and Drain Pump Motor

If the dishwasher is loud during operation, and the noise is a continuous drone similar in speed to the motor sound, it's likely that the circulation and drain pump motor bearings have failed. Once this happens the motor will have to be replaced, the bearings are not repairable.


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Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve is an electrically controlled water valve. When it is new, the water inlet valve is very quiet. Over time, the diaphragm inside the valve deteriorates and deforms. This deformation interacts with the water rushing in and can cause a loud vibration, buzzing, squealing or other noises. If the dishwasher is loud during the filling cycle, replacing the water inlet valve may solve the problem.

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Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

Hobart lxih heating water to 212 degrees and showing so on display

i would contact main office #937-332-3000 or Service Office 1-888-446-2278 .
Aug 02, 2013 • Dishwashers
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P1 error - Will not rinse.

Found this from another solution about the P1 error. Might be helpful:

This is a bad sump temperature probe. The unit will function, but will not heat nor display the wash water temperature.

This is a very easy fix. Order Hobart part number 328994 from your nearest Hobart parts dept.

Turn off and drain the unit. Kill the power to the unit at the circuit breaker. Remove the lower front cover. Locate the screw-in temperature probe at the front of the sump. Unplug the sensor from the wiring harness, remove with a 7/16" open end wrench. Screw in the new probe, using teflon tape of the threads, snuggly. It does not need to be super tight. Plug it into the harness, reinstall the front cover, turn the breaker back on, and start up the unit.

TURN THE BREAKER OFF AS EVEN WITH THE UNIT "OFF" THERE WILL BE 120 VOLTS PRESENT AT THE SUMP HEATER (yellow wires) DUE TO ONLY ONE LEG OF POWER BEING SWITCHED OFF!


kc
3helpful
1answer

Hobart LXIH stuck in Wash mode after running multiple loads. Shutting off breaker for several hours fixes problem until multiple loads have been run again and then it is once more stuck in Wash mode.

How long does it stay in the wash cycle? Indefinitely? Does the display continuously show "WASH"?. If it stays in the wash cycle indefinitely (i.e. continuously shows "WASH" for significantly beyond approx. 3 minutes), it's probably a control board malfunction. If it continues to wash after the "WASH" indicator goes out, it could be a shorted wash motor relay on the relay board or a fauly control board.

If the internal rinse water booster heater doesn't reach it's programmed setpoint temperature in time, the dishwasher will run an extended wash cycle to give the booster heater more time to finish heating the rinse water. If this is what's happening, the wash cycle would last approximately 3 minutes, then it would rinse regardless of whether the booster heater has finished heating or not.

The booster temperature thermistor may be bad, giving a false booster temperature reading, causing an extended wash cycle as described above. The booster heater elements or contactor may be bad, preventing the booster heater from heating and reaching proper temperature, also causing the same extended wash cycle to give the booster more time to heat.
0helpful
1answer

Good morning, I have 01 Hobart dishwasher AM14, i need to be replace rinse sensor probe and temperature sensor for booster heater.But I can't to find Hobart part number Please help me.Thank you.

294692 for the rinse probe.
"temperature sensor for booster heater"? Do you mean the thermostat? If so, part number is 274161.

Parts breakdowns and part numbers are available at www.hobartservice.com. Click "Parts" on the left, then click "Hobart SmartParts System" on the next page. You'll be asked a series of questions to identify your piece of equipment, and then you'll get a parts list and have links to parts breakdowns for various sections of the machine.
1helpful
1answer

Hobart L30 show code P3 and tempreture rises high Very quickly before it finsh filling

P3 refers to one of the dishwasher's three temperature sensors: sump temperature, booster heater temperature, or rinse water temperature. The dishwashers control circuitry has determined one of them is open or shorted, or at least out of range.

Judging from the symptom you mentioned, that you see rapid temperature reading changes before it finishes filling, I'd say it's probably the sump probe (because that's the temperature displayed during the fill cycle), located under the large removeable screen inside the dishwasher.

To test or replace, remove the small access panel at the lower front of the dishwasher (2 screws).
After the dishwasher has reached a good normal operating temperature, unplug the sump probe connector (white plastic connector with two small black wires going to it and coming from the area mentioned above where the temp. probe is. Using a multimeter, test the resistance of the probe. If the water in the dishwasher is hot (150 deg. F or more), you should read somewhere in the area of 5,000 to 10,000 ohms. If your measurement varies significantly from this range, replace the probe- most likely you'll see a reading near zero ohms or a very high reading, possibly an open-circuit probe (infinite resistance i.e. "OL" indicated on most multimeters).

It's possible I'm wrong about which temp. probe P3 refers to. There is also a temp. probe on the booster heater and one on the rinse piping on the rear of the dishwasher. Test procedure is the same for all of them, although the probe on the rinse piping is not constantly subjected to hot water so testing at room temperature would result in higher resistance value (lower temperature means higher resistance for these temperature probes).
0helpful
1answer

I have a hobart lxih that fill runs once and steam comes out on rinse than flashes P3

Probably a bad booster tank termperature probe (thermistor). This is threaded into the booster heater and has two small black wires entering it.

The following procedure will result in a some water coming out of the booster heater. Allow the booster heater to completely cool, and shut off the circuit breaker for the dishwasher before proceding.

Prepare a new temp. probe with teflon tape, then unscrew the old probe from the booster heater and quickly install the new probe. Assuming the heater is cooled, you can hold your finger over the hole vacated by the old probe to prevent excessive water from pouring out of the booster heater.
6helpful
2answers

P1 error code on LX30 Hobart

This is a bad sump temperature probe. The unit will function, but will not heat nor display the wash water temperature.

This is a very easy fix. Order Hobart part number 328994 from your nearest Hobart parts dept.

Turn off and drain the unit. Kill the power to the unit at the circuit breaker. Remove the lower front cover. Locate the screw-in temperature probe at the front of the sump. Unplug the sensor from the wiring harness, remove with a 7/16" open end wrench. Screw in the new probe, using teflon tape of the threads, snuggly. It does not need to be super tight. Plug it into the harness, reinstall the front cover, turn the breaker back on, and start up the unit.

TURN THE BREAKER OFF AS EVEN WITH THE UNIT "OFF" THERE WILL BE 120 VOLTS PRESENT AT THE SUMP HEATER (yellow wires) DUE TO ONLY ONE LEG OF POWER BEING SWITCHED OFF!
2helpful
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Hobart lx 40 - problem D 1

Does it show a wrench icon and P1?
error codes are p 1to 3 for probe errors, or E1 to 7 for error codes.
P1 is the probe on the wash tank. It's a thermistor with two black wires to a white connector. There is another on the booster front (P2) and a 3rd on the rear airgap, (p3). You could try exchanging 1 and 3 to see if the fault changes too. You have to drain the booster to swap P2. If it can't determine the wash tank temp, it won't know to control the heat and shows the error.
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Wrench and code p3 display

this is a probe booster error your probe failed replace it
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Lx 30 h hobart dishwasher

I hd the same problem. water was boiling during even when the machine was not washing. I replaced the temperature probe located inside the sump, and the problem was solved.
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