I would like to connect a two way dimmer to a one way circuit.

Easiest Way to Replace a 3-Way Switch If you're simply swapping an old 3-way switch for a new one, use this simple trick to get the wiring right: Before disconnecting any wires on the old switch, find the wire attached to the common screw terminal and label it with a piece of tape. Then, you can disconnect all three wires from the switch, as well as the ground wire. Because the other two wires (the travelers) are interchangeable, it doesn't matter which of the traveler screws you attach them to-there's no need to label them.

How are they connected in ceiling? If the blue wire from fan is connected to the red wire then the light wire from the switch would be the same. Since you have two blacks coming from the wall you'll have to connect the other wires until it's correct.

Hi Sara,

Please read this entirely before attempting.

I am an electrician and would like to help you with this problem. You have provided great detail of your situation, yet I am confused about the statement describing how you wired it:

"-Red Wire (used in 3-way installation-tagged) from switch to the red wire in wall."

Before checking wiring, be sure to shut off the power to the circuit.

The "tagged" wire should be the one you identified with tape (when you removed the original) that was connected to the dark colored (called a "shunt" or "common terminal") screw of the switch.

In a 3 way installation, both red wires from the dimmer switch are used. In a single pole installation, only the UNinsulated red wire is used and the insulated wire is not.

To which wire do you affix the "tag"? If it was a short wire that ran between the the bundled black wires and the shunt terminal screw of the old switch, then the dimmer switch's black wire should be combined with these bundled black wires. One of the dimmer switch's red wires would be connected to the red wire in the box and the dimmer switch's last red wire would be connected to the remaining black wire in the box. I understand that this is the way you have it currently wired - but without being able to dim.

If this is all correct, did you check / change the Minimum Brightness Adjustment setting for the switch as detailed in Step 7 of the directions?

"This Dimmer incorporates a
minimum brightness adjustment
that allows you to set the level of
light when the slider control lever is
in the lowest position.
Move slider to the lowest position.
Using a small, insulated screwdriver,
rotate the adjustment screw as
shown until the desired level of
minimum brightness is obtained."

I hope this helps and good luck!

The other two are travelers and if the circuit was previously hooked up correctly you can connect the white and red to either screw.

I suggest contacting Lutron's tech support center at 1-800-523-9466. They're available 24/7 and can help you out.

Having said that, can I assume that the red, white and black are all coming from the same romex? If so, the trick to doing this properly is to understand how the 3-way switch at the other location is wired up. In other words, of the red, white, and black wires... only TWO of those wires are connected to the other 3-way switch (I'm assuming this is a 3-way circuit given that you bought a 3-way product). Once you've identified the color of those two wires, on the dimmer, attach each of those two wires to one of the red wires coming out of the dimmer. The remaining wire coming out of the wall (red, white, or black) should then connect to the black wire coming out of the dimmer.

As a general rule for timers and dimmers:

The Black dimmer wire connects to black hot wire coming from breaker (122V line)
The red dimmer wire connects to Load (wire going to chandelier)

The wall red wire that is capped could be a couple different things. a) It could go to a second switch that was used to control the chandelier. b) it could be another wire that goes to same ceiling box as chandelier to be used to control a fan, except you don't have a fan. In the second case, if you install a fan with a light, you could control fan and light separately.

The green is a ground wire that connects to bare copper wire in box. The bare copper connect back to main breaker box on the Neutral busbar.
White wires that are twisted together inside your light switch box also connect back to to main breaker box on the Neutral busbar.
The ground wire and neutral are a redundant safety system to protect you from electrical devices and appliances that have 'shorted'
The black hot wire connects back to the circuit breaker.

For example, each circuit breaker controls one area of household lighting. The black white and copper wires leave breaker box in a single romex cable. The romex travels to a junction box in the area where the lights are located. The junction box is usually a switch box or a ceiling box. From the junction box, the romex travels to each other switch, light and receptacle box in the area. So each box has 1 hot and 1 neutral and 1 ground that is connected in a line that leads back to breaker box.

Here's a couple pages that make home wiring easier to understand:
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/240-v-water-heater-circuit.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Install-owb.html

you will want to make the following connections
existing-black wall to black dimmer now connects to red dimmer
existing black wall to red dimmer now connects to black dimmer
existing red wall to black dimmer now connects to red dimmer
Green wire connects to bare copper wires in wall

Ok the RED is Phase and the Black is Neutral... Green is Earth. you have an IN, Red wire, and an OUT Red wire, the rest just go color to color. So in the socket, one Red wire goes to one Red wire from the dimmer, the other Red wire in the socket, goes to the other Red from the dimmer, then Black to Black, and Green to Green. Be careful do NOT work on it live.

Ok, first turn off power by finding the break box and switching to off. Then I'm assuming you mean by "socket" you mean the hole in electrical box mounted in or on your wall the dimmer is supposed to mount to. Sounds like your electrician ran the power back to the switch through your neutral/white wire. Your dimmer has a top and bottom, it also could possible have a tiny word imprinted that says "to light" and "+" if not attach the white from your socket to the top black wire on the dimmer, then connect bottom black wire to the socket's black wire...ground wires should connect to each other and to the ground in the wall socket. Use wire nuts to secure, then check to make sure no wires are touching anything except for what they are supposed to me touching...and test it before you permanently attach. Go switch power back on, and try your dimmer...if it works GREAT:) Now go turn off power one more time, tape your wire nuttted connections with electrical tape, mount dimmer and go turn back on the power. Hope this helped! Thanks

Hi
The pull switch has 4 wires, L, 1, 2, 3.
Connect ' L' to the reverse switch red wire or the wire that is free.
Connect ' 3 ' to the main black ( hot ) wire entering the fan.
Connect ' 1 ' to the capacitor's lowest uF eg. ( 1.5 uF )
Connect ' 2 ' to the capacitor's next uF eg. ( 3 uF )
the Capaciotr also has to be connected to the neutral wire entering the fan, usually black attached to another color wire. If you have a VOM tester, veryfy that it is a neutral wire.
Regards
H. Montero