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If you are pumping grease in, the idler should be extending and the track should be getting tighter. If the piston is seized, you should not be able to pump grease into it UNLESS THE SEAL IS BLOWN in which case you can pump all day and the track won't get any tighter. The fix on a blown track adjuster seal requires removing the track to allow the idler and slack adjuster to be removed. Then unbolt the slack adjuster piston assembly and take it to your local heavy duty hydraulic shop for a rebuild.
This is HEAVY work. Take your time, think safety first, and ask for help if you need it. Keep in touch. I've done enough of these that it;s not scarey. What machine are you working on?
Raise the REAR of the Sled and keep it off the Ground
*** DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN ***
On the Rear of the Sled on BOTH SIDES there are adjustment Screws. You must align the opening in the Track, loosen the Jam Nut, then turn CCW to loosen and CW to tighten.
Are your Sliders worn out? Great time to replace them
most tracks are put back on by laying out the track and attaching one end to the drive sprocket and slowly driving along the track until you only have to lift one or two tread plates to get the pin back in. Make sure the adjuster is let well off before hand
Hi,
generally the door panel has to come off. With the panel removed you can see the tracks. There is an adjustment for each track, and you can observe the action of the window in the track as you operate the window. slacken both track adjustment bolts if fitted, operate the window untill fully up, tighten each adj bolt and operate the window through the cycle. Make any further adjustments as needed. When correct install the door panel, and recheck the operation of the window.
There should be adjustment screws on the back left and right sides. The screws will be horizontal with the tread, and probably need an allen wrench to tighten. If the tread runs straight, tighten each side 1/4 turn at a time to keep them even. Check the tread after each adjustment, and stop as soon as the tread quits slipping.
The problem is that you have not set the adjustment properly. Back off the adjustment screws,slide on the belt and center it over both rollers, addust a little at a time both screws, after belt begins to tighten up stop adjusting. Turn the power switch on for about 1 second. Is the belt tracking? Adjust as necessary. Try the power again for longer and longer periods untill belt tracks in the center of the rollers. Tighten nuts to keep adjustment screws from backing out.
after the idler is pushed all the way back into the frame.try to put some wood blocks under the track to remove all the slack.use the bucket to push as much of the bottom section under the bottom rollers.use a heavy chain and pull up and over the top of the roller.when you get close you can use the drive to walk it the rest of the way.if it still doesnt go you may have to break the track at the master pin. this is usually marked with a small hole drilled in the end of the pin.heat and beat the pin out,break the track.pull track over top rollers and make ends meet on top of the srocket.use a chainfall to pull two halfs together and line them up.drive pin back in and your all set.
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