Where does neutral wire go at end of circuit?

If you are speaking of a light switch or an outlet it is white or chrome and the hot is brass in color

Hi there,
I'm not sure how your set-up is, but I can definitely walk you through it. To simplify it on my end. Let's start with the neutral (white wire) wire first - and to be honest with you, this ISN'T always true out in the field, especially in homes (residential wiring). But, let's assume this has been verified. And before I start, make sure the power is OFF. Now, you want to take this neutral (white) wire to both fixture's only. The neutral (white) wire does NOT go to the switch. After you hook up the neutral wire to the one fan - then connect this to the second fan. They should be connected together (in series with each other). Okay, now that we have the neutral (white) wire connected, and out of the way...you want to connect the other wire on the fixture (most likely black) to the other fixture's wire (black) - and take this down to the switch. So now, you have both fixture's hooked up - with only the black (which will be called the switch leg) going down to the switch. Then, you'll need to find your constant HOT wire (which might also be black) - and take that directly to the switch. So now, the HOT wire brings the electricity down to the switch. When the switch is turned on - then the switch leg (black) wire will send the electricity up to the light/fan. Once the light/fan is in operation - that means the neutral (white) wire - has received the electricity (load), and taken it back to the electrical panel...completing the circuit. THIS, is how it all works. The HOT wire leaves the circuit breaker, and goes directly to the switch. Once the switch is turned on, then it travels up the SWITCH LEG to the fixture. Assuming the switch on the light/fan is ON - which is what you want when working it off of a switch - then, the NEUTRAL wire takes the electricity (load) back to the electrical panel...Completing the circuit! Also, the ground wire's should've been hooked up first - but if there's no grounding available (which happens a lot in homes (residential applications), then don't worry about it. It's a good practice to have all appliances, etc. grounded. You can get a grounding clamp, and ground it to the cold water pipe on your water heater - then run it into the ceiling, and to your light(s). This is for added protection! It will trip the circuit breaker if there's any short in the circuit. I hope I didn't get to complicated here, but feel free to contact me with any further question's. Good Luck, and be patient as you can. You'll see that you can do this...

you should be able to by hooking up the black wire on the dimmer to the hot wire(that comes from the electrical panel) in the wall box and the red wire from dimmer to the switch leg(the wire that goes to light fixture). if the dimmer has a white wire(nuetral wire) you will need to hook that up to the white wires in the wall box....CAUTION!!! when removing the old 1 pole switch, there should only be 2 wires and possibly a green or bare copper ground wire attached to it. if either of the 2 wires(not the ground) are white, IT IS MISLABLED OR MISCOLORED. DO NOT hook the dimmers white wire to it cuz it will fry the dimmer. If this is the case, then most likley you do not have a nuetral in the wall box but look anyway for a couple of white wires tied together with a wire nut and stuffed in the back of the box. if you find those than most likely thats your neutral(check with a wiggy or meter to be sure) and thats where the dimmers white wire goes. hook up the dimmers green wire to a green or bare copper wire in the wall box and then put a wire nut on the dimmers red w/white stripe wire.

it is connected directly to neutral the reason its connected the way it is,is because its sharing the neutral with other circuits in the fan

You purchased a GFCI outlet.
You posted under GFCI combo switch and receptacle.
If you have different device, then add a comment.

On back of device are markings that show Line and Load.
These markings are associated with screws on device.
Black Hot wire connects to Brass-colored Line screw.
White Neutral wire connects to silver screw located opposite Line screw.
If you don't know which wires are Hot and Neutral, the testing steps are shown at bottom.

Your other two wires evidently go to a light, fan, or motor that is operated by the switch.
This is where the two wires that stick out of GFCI device are used.
Your Black Load wire connects to one wire, and your White Load wire connects to other wire.

Finally there are 2 screws left on GFCI device.
These screws are used if the Hot and Neutral wires go forward to another switch or receptacle box. This would require another Black and White wire in the box, and all devices from the GFCI forward would be protected by the GFCI.
As you know, the way electric circuits work is a Black Hot and White Neutral leave the circuit breaker box and travel to a junction box. From the junction box, the Black Hot and White Neutral travel to the next box, and then the next box, and so on until the last box is reached. Each box contains a switch or plug or combo device or a light fixture. In your case, the Black Hot and White Neutral may not send power forward to another box, and may just be a switch box that has a single wire to the light fixture, and that is the end of the circuit.

How to test for Hot and Neutral wires:
Separate your 4 insulated wires.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester will light up on Hot wire.
Now Hot is Identified.
Test Hot wire to each other wire in box, except bare ground.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks to you via phone while you test the wires and wire the device.

You are replacing old switch-receptacle device.
New device also has switch and receptacle.
You want switch to control light, but not receptacle.
You want receptacle 'hot' all the time.

You have 2 cables that enter box.
Each cable has white, black and ground wires.
Ground wires are twisted together and attached to green ground screws and not discussed more.

Screws on new device:
Side 1 of device: New device has dark screw(s) or brass screws on one side ... these screws are connected together by brass plate. This side is the Hot side of device.

Side 2 of device: Other side has 2 separate and unconnected screws. These screws are not connected in any way. Each of the 2 disconnected screws sits opposite the switch and opposite the plug.

Cables.
One cable comes from breaker box. This cable has a Hot and Neutral wire. The Hot is black. Neutral is white.
The other cable goes to Load (light). Black supplies power to Load (light), and white connects to Neutral.
If you are uncertain which is which, testing is shown below.

Connect the device:
Side 1 of device: Black Hot goes to dark colored screw(s) that are connected by brass plate. (This is only wire connected to this side of device)
Side 2 of device: Black that goes to Load (light) connects to screw that sits opposite the switch.
Side 2 of device: White Neutral connects to screw that sits opposite the plug

One wire is left .. the white from light. This white wire connects to white Neutral wire. Since white neutral is already connected to device, look on back of device to see if there is a quick-connect hole for you to shove wire into back of device. If device doesn't have quick-connect, then twist white wires together, and add a short jumper wire to device, and then all the whites are connected to neutral. Circuit is complete.

How to test for Hot and Neutral
Separate wires.
Turn on power.
Test each wire to bare ground.
Tester lights up on hot wire.
Now test hot wire to other wires.
Tester lights up on neutral

1. Did you connect the neutral wire (white) from the breaker to the neutral bar?
2. Did you connect the circuit neutral wire (white) to the circuit breaker. If there is a neutral load the load MUST be connected to the breaker no to the panel neutral bar.
3. If this is a 50A load, what is the appliance connected to the circuit? If it is a range, quite often the newer ranges have a ground wire connected to the burner mount. A small current leakage in the element can trip the GFCI. Check each element (with power off) from the wiring terminals to ground with an ohm meter.

The white coiled wire should be connected to the neutral bar with all the other white wires. The neutral from the circuit it controls should then be connected to the breaker. If you're reading your meter between the hot conductor (black wire) and the neutral (white wire) that would be normal. If you remove the wire from your neutral bar to test it, and you have a load on the circuit you will be reading voltage out through your load and back on the neutral and it would "appear" to be hot. But why would you remove the white wire? What is the original problem, is the breaker triping?

so 6 grounds is connected together, and conneted to mains ground (direct connection), the white wires is (mains Neutral) and you connect all 6 white wires together (to doble pole safety switch) in one end pole switch, and you connect a wire from another pole the same end at common Two Single Pole Switch and connect (Black wires recess lights) to one free pole switch and (Black wires track lights) to another free pole.

The mains connect to safety switch live (Black or Brown) to another free safety switch pole, Neutral (White or blue) to free safety switch pole and earth to ground wires on mains connector.

Note: Allways use a mains 300mA diferencial safety switch, for better protection.

Switches always connect to hot (black) wires. In some cases you may find a white wire with the end taped black denoting it is serving as a hot (black) wire. Or you may find a white wire connected to the switch. If that's the case, the prior electrician did not properly mark the wire and it should be marked as a black wire. Wrap the end with black electrical tape after disconnecting.