Remote starter comes only briefly and shuts off

The warning lights coming on with the key in the on position is normal. If the key is turned to the start position and the engine will not crank over, suspect an internal starter motor problem or lack of power to the starter solenoid. You can try tapping on the starter motor with a blunt object while someone holds the key in the crank position to see if it starts when this problem occurs. If it starts using this procedure, the starter motor will be defective

Try a new battery in the button fob.

Adjust with switch on the dash in the location of the dimmer switch !Check it out on you tube !

The remote starter module is not getting an electrical signal when you turn the key to the on position after remote stating the vehicle. When you depress the brake without turning the key on the vehicle shuts down. The remote module thinks the key is off even when you turn it on. There is a loose connection or the remote start device is defective.

the remote box may be getting hot. need to have it tested

Hard to tell. If it is working now, they must have done something. It could have been a bad connection somewhere.. Sometimes when checking connections, problems go away. Only time will tell. Remember it is important to have both the engine and the body to have good grounds.

Troubleshooting Tips For Your Car Starter

• If your car is simply not responding when you activate your remote car starter, it is usually due to one of two problems. Either your remote is not working, or your receiver is not functioning properly. Most remotes will have an LED light to indicate that the remote is working. If the LED light is flashing when the remote is engaged, the remote is functional. Check the receiver by ensuring the receiver wire is connected properly.
• If your car is indicating a response to the remote car starter (i.e. the lights flash or the horn honks briefly) but not starting, you probably have an issue with your hood pin switch or your taillights, or parking lights may be defective. Another possibility is that you have blown fuses in your main power source. If you cannot determine that these are the causes of the malfunction, take your car back to the company or service that performed the installation.
• If your vehicle is responding to the remote car starter and the engine turns over but will not start, it may be caused by a factory-installed immobilizer system, or OEM. Factory-installed OEMs are activated by a computer chip in your ignition key. In order to test for a problem with you car's OEM, place the key in the ignition and employ the remote car starter. If the car starts, you definitely have a problem with the vehicle's OEM, and you may need to purchase a "transponder" to bypass the OEM.
• If you lose your remote for your car starter, do not worry. Most remote car starters are equipped with multiple security features to ensure the safety of your vehicle while it is idling. The car simply will not run without the key. And, once you replace the remote and program it into the system, your old remote will no longer function.

Credit goes to:
http://www.carstarters.com/troubleshooting.cfm

Try starting in Neutral instead of Park. If this works, the transmission range switch (sometimes called a neutral safety switch) is faulty in Park.

Next, you can try a remote start switch (available at auto parts stores) or a jumper wire to bypass the ignition switch. First make sure transmission is in park or neutral. You will be jumping from the battery positive terminal to the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid terminal has a black wire with a white stripe connected to it. (This terminal is visible just to the left of the automatic transmission dipstick tube.) Remove this wire and connect one end of the remote start switch wire (or jumper wire) to it. Connect the other end of the remote start switch wire to the battery positive terminal. Activate the remote start switch and see if the starter will crank. (If using a jumper wire, briefly touch the other end to the battery positive terminal and see if cranking will occur). If the starter works then you have a problem in the ignition switch, or starter cut-out relay.

The starter cut-out relay is located on the back of the driver's under dash fuse/relay box in the left wall kick panel. The ignition switch also has wire leads that plug into the back of this same fuse box. You can disconnect the wire leads and test the ignition switch with on ohm meter from this point.

Here have information about #791 bypass module: Bulldogsecurity Model791

IF YOUR REMOTE STARTER IS CLICKING AND/OR FLASHING THE PARKING LIGHTS AND IS NOT RESPONDING TO THE REMOTE, IT IS IN SAFE MODE AND NEEDS TO BE INITIALIZED BY DOING THE FOLLOWING:
If you have a 4 button remote, you must ground the black/blue hood pin wire (raise hood if hood switch is installed). Apply 12volts to blue/black brake wire (press and hold brake pedal if wire is installed). Press and hold any button on your remote until clicking and flashing stops. Unit will now respond to the remote. Remove ground from hood pin wire and voltage from brake wire. If you have a 2 button remote, hold brake and press any button on the remote until clicking and flashing stops.

ADDENDUM
If you have an RS1100 or RS1200 and your vehicle runs for several seconds, shuts off, restarts, runs, and shuts off again, perform the following step: Connect the Black/White tach wire (from the 16 pin plug) to the heavy gauge White Ignition 1 wire and program the unit for Tach Mode (bottom of page 19).

Witch model alarm have your vehicle?

Good luck.

I think I know what you are talking about. I am unsure what alarm you are using but on mine I have a two button remote and if I push button one briefly than button two briefly then one again it will either enter or exit the silent mode.

Good luck !!!!